Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 - Error Codes And Loss Of Acceleration When Driving On Highway
May 13, 2010
Need to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
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2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
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Check Engine light is on but car seems to be running OK (getting 40mpg). I do notice that the car seems to rely on the Gas more than the battery than it used to.
My question is, will MPG start to drop gradually until one day the Traction Battery is just dead or will the car go from running well to not running well in minutes.
My shop says it needs a battery but it's not in the budget at the moment so I need to see if I can postpone it until the new year.
2003, 145k, just bought it 3 months ago
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Lost all acceleration yesterday while driving at highway speed. Tire pressure light came on also large warning sigh and check engine . Had been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic before this with AC on.Gas pedal to the floor but no acceleration. I pulled over and shut off car. When I tried to restart the lights mentioned above went out Except the check engine, NOW all the brake warning lights are on in a yellow color including the emergency brake.Brakes do stop the car (had to push it onto the tow truck) Car comes on but does not display the READY sign.
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I successfully replaced the HV battery on my own and it was so easy even this girl to do it! I drove the car about 300 miles when I got the triangle of death warning light again yesterday. I took my 2002 Prius to the dealer to read the codes but how to borrow a scanner (or whatever) from Autozone and do it myself.
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I need assitance on the following diagnostic report. My prius shows:-
1. Red triangle with exclamation mark,
2. On the LCD red car with exclamation mark,
3. ABS sign - on and off.
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I've been having this problem where as i'm driving (mostly highway) all of a sudden I get the feeling like i've let go of the gas pedal but I haven't. The mpg meter goes from about 40 to 100 as if its on straight battery power and I have to really press the pedal down to get any decent acceleration. Once in awhile i'll get the big orange triangle warning and the little pic of an exclamation point in an outline of a car. But after a day it may go away.
One time it didn't and I brought it in. I spent 80 bucks for them to find nothing wrong and say the alert had something to do with an oxygen sensor (its was awhile ago, i dont quite remember exactly)
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This just recently started happening just shy of 200k miles, 14 years. While driving down the road, suddenly notice a power loss or no power, i.e., no motor output. Sometimes the just the ICE won't accelerate, sometimes it's both ICE and Electric motive force. When this occurs, the Brake and ABS check lights turn on. After a few seconds, to 10's of seconds, then the motive power reenables and the Brake/ABS lights go out. Often the cars continues on with no repeat. Testing over a few drives, it seemed to only do it during the warmup cycle when coolant was near 160-170.
However on a drive in the afternoon after it occurred in the morning; with ambient around 30 degrees, windows cracked, interior heat off, it didn't occur on the 15 minute drive, mostly freeway speed, even after about 10 minutes and cranking interior heat on. No codes are registered when this happens. I used Torque Pro and monitored things like throttle position and such, and things there seemed normal. Eng rpm dropped under 1000rpm and wasn't steady. Watching the MFG the power flows responded to the throttle (pushed/released) as if the engine was still doing what was asked (go figure, the display shows what is commanded, not what is occurring?).
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I've been driving my V10 for 3 years now without a problem. The other day, while I was on the Highway in Italy driving at around 140KM/H, I suddenly had a loss of power. I could continue to drive the car, but I had no more tork... I stopped at the next gas station, turn the engine off, turned it on again, and the car drove normally again as before. About 200KM later the same happened again...
I went to check with the dealer - he hooked up the car to the computer - and told me that they had to change both turbos... What I find weird is that when I turn the car off and on again it works again. If the turbos would be defective, they wouldn't work again just by turning the car on and off. I think that it is more a problem with the turbo controller and if that's the case why change both turbo.
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I am using a Hyundai Santa Fe (Petrol, 2011 Model) here in Saudi Arabia. On July 17 (11:30 pm), I was driving in a highway at about 80-90 kms/hr when suddenly my vehicle lost power (steering wheel, brake, etc).
Baed on the diagnosis of our company mechanic, it was an alternator problem. He said the alternator bearing got stuck up.
Prior to this incident, on July 7, the same vehicle got stalled twice while it's parked. In the first case, I was able to use it after jumpstarting. In the second case in the same day (4 hours after the first case), jump starting didn't work so they have to replace it with a temporary used battery. I noticed that I had a hard start (the engine responds only after 3-4 key ignition). After replacing the battery with new one, I was able to drive normally from July 9 to Jul 17, and then the incident happened as I described in the first paragraph.
Question: Is there a way to detect the alternator bearing problem before it actually breaks down? If there is, what procedure or predictive test is normally followed to identify potential problems in an alternator?
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Ok, so I was driving normal highway speeds and all of a sudden, I realize a major drop in power. I pull over and restart it and it changes nothing. Now when I floor it, it takes 20-30 seconds to get to 90K.
I checked the air filter... Nothing. Used a code reader... Nothing. Then I decided to pressure test the cylinders... Nothing, except now the check engine light is on.
The Ol Dub is still drivable, but it is extremely slow and rough at idle. I am thinking it might be a MAF or fuel filter.
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On my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
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My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
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2002 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD automatic
She was on the highway this afternoon and was accelerating to merge in with traffic. Apparently the car just reved up without actually accelerating. She said it felt like she was in neutral. I've driven the car a few times over the last week and it has been running perfectly - No hesitation anywhere at any speed. There are no CELs (yet). It is probably worth mentioning that it has been raining HEAVILY here for the last 24-hours and I would not be the least bit surprised if she hit a few puddles on the way. I can just about guarantee the CPS has never been changed and am suspecting it may be a short in causing her problem.
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How to diagnose the following codes: U0D00, P0711, P2300.
U0D00 - What this means.
P0711 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance. How would I go about fixing this?
P2300 - Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit Low
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Error codes -
P0674 - Glow Plug N0. 4 Circuit Malfunction
P0475 - Exhaust Backpressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0381 - Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
how to fix?
I get these beeps continuously for the first ten minutes of driving.
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My '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
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I recently replaced the 181K mile valve-burned engine in my 2001 Honda CR-V with a 40K mile engine from Japan. Since the swap idle is slightly erratic, acceleration from a stop is sluggish and check engine light indicates "P1508 error code" which is "Idle Air Control valve circuit failure." Also have an issue with the A/C cycling on and off rapidly when idling that goes away as soon as the engine rpm is slightly increased. New OEM IAC valve is costly so I hesitate to replace it. All parts other than the engine itself are from my original engine in my CR-V.
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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I'm getting codes C1241, C1259,C1310, P1241. All of them have to do with the skid control ecu. Should I replace the ecu?
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