Okay, quick run down;
2004 prius
Brake sensors, all 4, changed
Accumulator changed
Still throwing codes even when reset by dealer. They have bled the brake lines 5 times, reset codes and still throwing codes.
I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.
View 10 RepliesThe wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
[URL]..................
I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
I have a 2005 Toyota Prius with about 150K miles on it. After work one night i hit a pothole and my ABS and BRAKE lights came on. I took it to a garage and they could t find anything wrong with it so they reset the light. It came back on about a week later (no potholdes this time) and i took it back. They hooked it up again this time it said there was an issue with the computer coding. So i took it to a Toyota dealership. They hooked it up to all their scanners and could find nothing wrong with my vehicle. They recalibrated the sensor and the light went off. Now a week later it is back on again. Brakes work fine and we get no error codes.
View 10 RepliesLast week my ABS warning light came on. I took it to a mechanic (who I trust but is not a Prius-specific mechanic) who said warnings are coming up for the anti-lock accumulator and hydro boost motor. However, in July 2011 I had these both replaced. The work was done by a Toyota dealership. I ended up taking my car back 4 times after this work was completed as it kept having braking issues. They replaced the shim kit and bled the brakes. And eventually they replaced the master cylinder (this they did under warranty bc there was no way I was paying them any more money). At no point did they seem to understand what they were doing. (Along the way they broke my windshield and killed my battery.)
Finally by November 2011 my car was driving normal again. And then the warning light and high-pitched alarm went off again last week. I talked to Toyota Corporate who suggested I call the dealer to do the work since technically the accumulator and motor just ran out of their one year warranty. But this is the same dealer that didn't seem to know what they were doing last year.
I replaced my hybrid battery. Now when trying to start the car again for the first time with new battery, it will not start all the way and go into gear. it begins to fire-up then just doesn't. it flashes ready 4 times then when usually the speedometer would throw up a zero, there is nothing.
The codes I got were c1241 c1259 c1310 c1378 the abs icon is displayed with every code. I erased these then ran again and still had the actuator code. Does this mean that I need to replace the actuator or is there maintenance that can suffice? Or do you think it's something dif all together and it should start with that code?
I have been getting a beeping noise when I touch the brake pedal for a while now. It goes off after the car fully turns on..
i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesCar will not go into drive or reverse. It's almost like it's in a "limp mode." Red triangle with ! and yellow circle with ! are lit. No codes come up. If I remove the positive terminal for a few minutes (and replace it), it'll pop into drive and function as usual but the lights will come back a few minutes later. After some reading on here, I've deducted that it may be the Hybrid Inverter (probably not since it still drives and charges, correct?) or the Hybrid Coolant Pump. How do you know when either of these two items fail? I don't have any codes to go off.
Here is some other info...
2005 Prius One
New traction battery (last night)
New 12v battery (today)
tried the ac for the first time and condenser turned on for only 3-4 seconds and shut off . then turned on after 3-4 seconds and turned off again. no cold air . I bypassed the low pressure switch with a wire in the connector that plugs in to the switch and the condenser ran continuously. my question is .....does the accumulator hiss after the engine is shut off with the ac on? I did remove the pressure switch and heard a little 'psssst'. there was a coating of oil on the o-ring . I screwed the switch back on . Seems like there was pressure in the accumulator. just wondering if the hissing after shutoff was normal. No signs of leakage anywhere. Maybe need a recharge after pressure test?
View 4 RepliesWhat is the procedure to check the codes when the check engine light illuminates. I am looking for the exact procedure. For example in my other cars, you connect the scanner to the OBD2 connector, then you turn the key to ON without starting the car.
View 1 RepliesMy left roof airbag and driver side seat belt (retractor) were damaged all parts have been replaced but my airbag light still remains on.
I erased all the DTC codes with my techstream software.
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger 4 WD 3.0 L Vulcan engine. When I turn on the AC it blows out hot air, in fact it feels like the heater is on. I have checked the pressures with a gauge and both high side and low side are within working ranges. Also when I turn it to some of the heater functions the AC compressor kicks on as well. I have tried turning the temperature dial between hot and cold but that doesn't seem to change anything.
View 4 RepliesI was playing with my obd reader today and came across 2 pending codes both C0700.
View 5 Replies2005 with 123,000 miles. I have owned for a few thousand miles. Car was dealer maintained at every recommended interval. Car runs perfect.
After car sat for a week or so, I drove it and the red triangle popped up along with PROBLEM statement and take to immediately to dealer symbol. Red Triangle and other warnings repeats every once in awhile - will go a day without, and then will come on and off within a couple miles. Car continues to run fine. There are no other check engine lights. I have checked all the fluids and they are fine.
The battery charges fine, and holds the charge overnight. I have a generic code reader and there are no codes. I have read other posts, and there are always problems that seem to come with the Triangle. Gas mileage is fine as well.
01-d5 190-45-c
01-dc 190-75-5
01-dc 1c6-0f-f
01-de 1c6-2b-1
The aux battery was changed about 9 months ago and the only problem I currently have is the tag lights are not working.
The red triangle warning on my dash recently came on so I am taking it to the nearest dealer on Monday. I think all of this is covered under recalls/warranty. Am I right?
View 4 RepliesThe P1116 and P1121 codes have shown up on my 2009 Gen II Prius about a month ago. The CEL is intermittent - it will disappear on its own within a few drive cycles to a week, only to come back again. I'm not sure what to do next - should I go ahead and replace the three-way coolant valve or water pump or both?
Of note I also hear a "push-pull" noise from the engine compartment. Sometimes it persists through an entire drive (my trips are usually short, under 30 minutes) or sometimes it will only happen upon a cold start then stop after a few minutes of driving. What the noise indicates? It sure sounds like some sort of valve or piston opening and closing. It's faint so I've "enhanced" it to make it louder.
Apparently I can't upload .wav's here, so I placed it on dropbox. And since I only have one post, I can't directly link to it. So I will post three replies in order to paste in the link.
Got these bad codes yesterday on my 2007. Toyota service said the car needs total hybrid replacement for about $3,300. The car has 188K on it. Does this sound right?
View 12 RepliesUpon turning on my car and driving a few feet I had the Red Triangle of Death, Yellow VSC, Yellow (!) Indicator, and check engine light and I'm trying to figure out where I should start working on the issue.
The Codes were as Follows:
P3000 (subcode 123)
C0200
C1241
C1300
C1310
C1259
A little history:
About 3 months ago I had an issue with the hybrid battery and replaced a battery cell which stopped all issues. About 2 weeks ago I replaced the coolant inverter pump and until today there has been no errors, CELs, or any negative performance.
This is a Gen II, 2007 prius with almost 200k miles.
Unfortunately I had plans that I could not reschedule and made the drive to the location and drove back. I had serious battery drain and it was almost always at 1 bar of battery, sometime reaching up to 2 bars. There is also the sound of a fan coming from the back seat, which I assume is the HV Battery fan, but it is on regardless of if I have air conditioning or not. A/C is working fine. When I returned home the battery charged almost up to full bars, but when I came to a stop the battery drained in about 10 seconds leaving me with very low power to keep moving. After that whenever I slowed down the teal arrows showing a recharge of the battery were gone and the battery seemed to refuse to recharge.
Steps taken so far:
I topped off my engine coolant in the front reservoir as it seemed a little low, but I didn't add much before it was full. The other reservoir near the engine was just about full and taking off the other cap showed coolant filled to the top.
I tested the 12v battery with my voltmeter which came back reading 12.7.
I took my 2008 prius with 183,000 miles in last week to have recall work done on it. they did the following:
1. Accelerator pedal recall
2. Steering shaft recall
3. Hybrid Electric water pump recall
The following day when I start my prius my check engine light comes on so I figure it was something they did on the recall work. I do have a scangauge, and the only code that showed on it was a P1304. I took it back to dealer today, and was told that it had multiple EVAP codes, and that the canister on top of gas tank is bad, and will need to be replaced. They said it was full of gas. They asked me if I stopped fueling car when pump shut off? I told them I always go to next whole dollar. They said to always stop as soon as pump shuts off(but on some pumps they shut off like crazy when pumping gas), I told them to just clear codes, and I would get back with them if I decide to have canister changed. So far check engine light has stayed off ( dealer is about 100 miles away)