Prius V :: Lurching When Put Into Gear When Brake Still Applied
Aug 27, 2012
Occasionally (I cannot isolate a particular behavior or scenario), when I put the car into either drive or reverse from a cold start, remove the emergency brake (in either order), keep continued solid pressure on the brake pedal, the car will lurch a few inches. If I do not release brake quickly and re-apply, it will lurch again. This is very disconcerting. It happens on level ground. It is particularly alarming when parallel parked or in a parking lot when people are around. I am taking the car in to the dealer tomorrow for the 5K checkup and will mention it.
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My car has 140K miles and has never required any brake work.
It is difficult to describe, at freeway speeds they seem to work fine. Around town, say 45 mph and below, the brakes work as though I'm a 16 year old learning to drive for the first time. I'll press a little, and get nothing, press a little harder and they really grab and the car lurches. But it also seems inconsistent, it doesn't always happen.
This has had NO perceptible impact on the "grabby" braking performance. Further, I would describe the hydraulic only braking as "excellent", they work just fine and I do not get any of the pulsing or weird brake behavior when braking with the car in neutral.
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I have a 2005 Prius that worked fine until I was told last year (March 2012) my brake pads needed to be replaced and the rotors were warped and needed to be trued. Since that work was completed, when I apply the brakes the first thing in the morning or when it is wet, the car will slow down and then suddenly lock up. This throws me forward and I get a jolt from the seat belt. The dealer has been unable to duplicate it and tells me the brakes are mechanically fine. Sometimes when this occurs I hear a loud clunking sound from the rear of the car. The last time I took it to the dealership they told me the Prius has an issue with the brakes rusting, but they are mechanically fine. I still have my doubts.
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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Sometimes when you slow down for an exit and then step on the gas pedal, it lurches like it skipped a gear. Or sometimes is sounds like you're pressing the gas pedal while in neutral and then it kicks into gear with a lunging forward. What do I need to do?
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For the past 3 months, upon shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, the car lurches forward in a hard shift. Sometimes, it is nothing more than a benign "clunk", and other times it is violent, as if hitting a wall. This does not happen every time it shifts and even under identical acceleration, the results vary from none to violent. The number of violent shifts vs. small jolts has increased over time, and all other transmission functions and shifts are fine/normal. After much time researching the inter-blogs, I have come to no consensus on what is causing this or how to fix it.
Some say it is the adaptive shifting program and it just needs updating and others say it's the tranny and a rebuilt tranny replacement is the only thing that eventually fixed this problem (though one posting on the Hyundai forum is of the same exact problem, but the solution is worrisome -- contact negative battery terminal to positive, let sit for 10 min, reconnect, then drive at 1/3 throttle, shifting through all gears a dozen times. Poster says this resets adaptive shifting program and worked for him).
Finally, today, I took it in for a diagnostic with a local transmission specialist, and they could only replicate the hard shift once, but when that happened, he said the car went into limp mode and read two codes: P1193 and P2127. The car has never gone into limp mode (P1193) nor shown an signs of suppressed RPMs associated with this mode. Also, he seemed to focus his attention on the low voltage to the pedal position sensor (P2127) as being the major issue that is causing the hard shift. I also called a past dealer that worked on a similar issue with the car when I bought it used 4 years ago and they recommended updating the adaptive shifting program as they did last time; though I don't recall if the shifting issue was the exact same problem I am having now. So, a few things:
Does this sound like a computer issue or a tranny issue? Could the pedal position sensor having low voltage cause a shifting problem like this? Any merit to the connecting the battery terminals idea? Should I be wary of the mechanic that did the diagnostic today?
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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This is an issue when I brake over a small bump or pothole. It lurches forward and I feel like I have lost control of the brakes and we are about to crash into the car in front of me. Seems like this is an issue with other Prius years but I thought this was fixed with the v.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My 2000 corolla has about 180,000 miles and loses power when I put it in gear. But the engine revs just fine when it is in neutral or park. What could be wrong?
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My 2013 goes 7mph with the foot off the gas. Why is it doing this and is there any way to correct this?
Is this normal? I have to keep my foot jammed on the brake to stop the car from lurching forward.
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My girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra. After running over a few pot holes my car has been making a clicking noise when I brake. What it could be?
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I have a really weird problem with my car. Every time that I apply the brakes, I get a bit of a shudder. It just started a couple of weeks ago and we checked the brake pads which were fine and the bearings were good as well. What could be causing this problem?
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Super annoying problem I can't solve.
Front brakes have a constant chirping sound that goes away when brakes are applied.
New front brakes were installed in November, OEM rotors and pads.
They were quiet as a mouse, until i installed a new set of struts and springs along with 10mm front spacers.
(Yes I am using extended lug bolts).
I took the fronts apart this weekend and lubed the hell out of them, still squeaking.
My next thought is to use some of that CRC disc brake quiet red goo stuff, but I'd rather not use that if i don't have to.
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I have a 2005 Rav4 Sport. I've been taking it to the same mechanic for years and have never had a problem. After my last visit (65K tune-up and new brakes), the car squealed when applying brakes driving forward or in reverse. The mechanic took it back, changed brakes and there was a small improvement. They next took it to Toyota who changed brakes and rotors and there was a bigger improvement. Now the squeal only happens when reversing out of a parking space while turning the wheel. It is back at the mechanics. They said they've taken it apart and can't find anything that would cause the problem.
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I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Excursion V10 Gas with 208k miles and have a problem with it. The problem Im having is that when I brake, it tends to go to the left. At first I thought it was a bad caliper so I took it to a local shop and I feel they ripped me of, they replaced brake lines, calipers, rotors, brakes, I even bought new tires as it needed some of this stuff anyways but the problem still there. In the end I was told they could not fix the issue and that I had a bad ABS module and only Ford could fix that. So I then took it to Ford who took 2 days with my truck and did who knows what then was told that the problem is a bad 'Hydraulic Control Unit' and it was going to cost me $1100 to get fixed. I have no clue what that is?
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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