Prius (Gen 2) :: Car Lurches When Applied Brake At 45 Mph
Mar 10, 2014
My car has 140K miles and has never required any brake work.
It is difficult to describe, at freeway speeds they seem to work fine. Around town, say 45 mph and below, the brakes work as though I'm a 16 year old learning to drive for the first time. I'll press a little, and get nothing, press a little harder and they really grab and the car lurches. But it also seems inconsistent, it doesn't always happen.
This has had NO perceptible impact on the "grabby" braking performance. Further, I would describe the hydraulic only braking as "excellent", they work just fine and I do not get any of the pulsing or weird brake behavior when braking with the car in neutral.
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Just got a 03 Used Santa Fe 2 weeks ago... 79,000 miles
1. Car "lurches" when at a complete stop w brake fully applied out of no where, so strong that I could easily rear end someone...
2. told dealership car was pulling to right, they said (after some teeth pulling) that a ball joint was replaced and Santa Fe's don't need alignments but in MA this is part of state inspection and considered a safety issue, needless to say, they say I have to pay for it...
3. Rear brakes seem to be hanging up...
All I want is the issues fix.
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I've had my 2011 Prius II for two months, and I love it. One little thing bugs me, however. I have noticed that sometimes when I apply the brakes, the car lurches forward a little bit. But I keep the brake pedal on, and the car does stop. Is there something wrong with my brakes, or is this something that has to do with the regenerative braking?
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I have a 2012 Prius with 15000 miles on it. In the year I have had it, I have had this problem a few times. On rare occasions while I am braking the car seems to lurch forward. In particular I have noticed it while braking and hitting a bump. The problem is that when this happens the car seems to jump forward while the brakes are being applied. My foot is on the brake when it happens, but I am not braking suddenly. That rules out any anti-lock braking. I have had the dealer look at it but since it didn't happen on their test drive they couldn't figure anything out. They did open a case on it in case anything comes up.
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Occasionally (I cannot isolate a particular behavior or scenario), when I put the car into either drive or reverse from a cold start, remove the emergency brake (in either order), keep continued solid pressure on the brake pedal, the car will lurch a few inches. If I do not release brake quickly and re-apply, it will lurch again. This is very disconcerting. It happens on level ground. It is particularly alarming when parallel parked or in a parking lot when people are around. I am taking the car in to the dealer tomorrow for the 5K checkup and will mention it.
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I have a 2005 Prius that worked fine until I was told last year (March 2012) my brake pads needed to be replaced and the rotors were warped and needed to be trued. Since that work was completed, when I apply the brakes the first thing in the morning or when it is wet, the car will slow down and then suddenly lock up. This throws me forward and I get a jolt from the seat belt. The dealer has been unable to duplicate it and tells me the brakes are mechanically fine. Sometimes when this occurs I hear a loud clunking sound from the rear of the car. The last time I took it to the dealership they told me the Prius has an issue with the brakes rusting, but they are mechanically fine. I still have my doubts.
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When attempting to back slowly the T2 revs the engine to about 1700 and tries to over power my brake. My foot is on the brake not the gas at all. The harder you hold the brake the more the T2 tries to over power it. It cause the truck to lunge when you ease off the brake. The is amplified by any pitch to what you backing up. Any slope makes it worse.
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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So the car stops all its forward motion and then sets back a little. I'm sure y'all know what I mean.
I just replaced rear brake pads and rotors and noticed when I come to a complete stop and the car lurches back when it stops, there is a little squeak. It sounds like something is moving around back there. Here's my theory:
The old rotors were pretty stuck on the hubs...so they didn't move. There's a little wiggle room between the rotors and the wheel studs. When the vehicle stops and changes directions, the rotors move and make a noise. I ran this by my mechanic and he told me when the lug nuts are tightened, it would prevent that movement.
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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I just put new disc and pads on my girlfriend 2007 elentra and all four little screws broke off the hold the disc so you can work on it but they aren't important apparently.
Heres the problem now the pedal jumps like i have super warped discs on the car doesn't shake or vibrate while driving but then i brake the pedal jumps up and down.
I figured it might have a stuck caliper pin, which I did so I cleaned and lubed them and I have the same problem?
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I have a 2015 Nissan Sentra. After running over a few pot holes my car has been making a clicking noise when I brake. What it could be?
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I have a really weird problem with my car. Every time that I apply the brakes, I get a bit of a shudder. It just started a couple of weeks ago and we checked the brake pads which were fine and the bearings were good as well. What could be causing this problem?
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Super annoying problem I can't solve.
Front brakes have a constant chirping sound that goes away when brakes are applied.
New front brakes were installed in November, OEM rotors and pads.
They were quiet as a mouse, until i installed a new set of struts and springs along with 10mm front spacers.
(Yes I am using extended lug bolts).
I took the fronts apart this weekend and lubed the hell out of them, still squeaking.
My next thought is to use some of that CRC disc brake quiet red goo stuff, but I'd rather not use that if i don't have to.
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I have a 2005 Rav4 Sport. I've been taking it to the same mechanic for years and have never had a problem. After my last visit (65K tune-up and new brakes), the car squealed when applying brakes driving forward or in reverse. The mechanic took it back, changed brakes and there was a small improvement. They next took it to Toyota who changed brakes and rotors and there was a bigger improvement. Now the squeal only happens when reversing out of a parking space while turning the wheel. It is back at the mechanics. They said they've taken it apart and can't find anything that would cause the problem.
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I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Excursion V10 Gas with 208k miles and have a problem with it. The problem Im having is that when I brake, it tends to go to the left. At first I thought it was a bad caliper so I took it to a local shop and I feel they ripped me of, they replaced brake lines, calipers, rotors, brakes, I even bought new tires as it needed some of this stuff anyways but the problem still there. In the end I was told they could not fix the issue and that I had a bad ABS module and only Ford could fix that. So I then took it to Ford who took 2 days with my truck and did who knows what then was told that the problem is a bad 'Hydraulic Control Unit' and it was going to cost me $1100 to get fixed. I have no clue what that is?
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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As outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
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