Today, I installed a 2.5 inch leveling kit on the truck. Now when I go over a bump, I hear a "clunk" as if something is dropping down onto another component in the front end. Sway bar links are good. Springs and strut assembly are tightened down well. Could it just be the spring on the new shocks and spacers, or do I need to check other components?
View 4 RepliesWhile going from 45 to 50 MPH, there is a shaking in the front end. Also, above 60 MPH the shaking starts again, but it's more of a rougher vibration. Both u-joints were replaced less than 2 months ago as well as both hub bearings. Tires are rough with only the front left one having decent tread, and I do not remember the last time the tires were balanced. Could this be it? I'm about to put 35 inch toyo mt's and 20x10 fuel maverick rims on it, could new tires fix this problem? Or maybe it could be tire pressure or camber?
View 2 RepliesHad upper and lower ball joints replaced a few hundred miles ago and the truck had run just fine. Just replaced the the front bearings, axle seals, left axle shaft (Spicer brand) and right U-joint. Now at highway speeds if I hit just the right bump the front of the truck will start to shake and within a few seconds the shaking is violent, almost have to come to a complete stop for shaking to stop. What is causing this?
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 Ram 2500 w/Auto Trans leaks ATF when parked with the front end downhill. On the level its okay. Looking under the vehicle, it appears to be leaking where the dipstick tube enters the case at the front of the transmission. The tube is held to the case by a single bolt and apparently there are other bolts higher up that I can't easily see. I'd like to remove the dipstick tube and replace the gasket or whatever seal that seems to have failed.
What seals the tube at the trans case? Gasket? O-ring? Silicon glue?
Info: 2003 Ion-1 165k+ miles
I'm hearing a clunking/knocking noise in my Ion that sounds like the front driver side. It's most audible starting about 30 mph. It grows louder as I drive faster and the rate of clunking/knocking is relative to the speed I am driving. It doesn't change when I push in the clutch or when I'm in a different gear. It does not happen when I rev my engine in neutral. I even shut off my car while moving in a parking lot and no change. The sound changes when I turn (sounds like a more muffled/dull sound but still loud if that makes sense), and in my mind it seems to sound worse when I'm turning right than left.
I noticed the noise on Thursday of last week. It was at the point where I had to have my radio off to notice the noise. Since then it has grown louder and as of yesterday is now overpowering my radio when at reasonable volume.
I just replaced both the driver and passenger wheel bearing in the last 18 months, and I just got new Tier-3 Cooper tires 3 months ago. (I wouldn't think the bearing would knock, but just as history fyi.) I was convinced by the troubleshooting guide in my Haynes manual that it was either the inner or outer CV joint so I replaced the whole Driver side CV Axle and topped off the Tranny Fluid with Dexron-III. No dice. I thought there's a chance it could be my new tires, so I Rotated the tires on the left side F->B/B->F as well and the noise did not seem to change. Spinning the tires by hand while up on my jack stands does not seem to tell me anything (I'm guessing I'd have to have them spinning at about 20/30mph to hear anything).
My next idea at this point is to put the front end up on jack stands and have someone put my car in gear and give it a little gas while I stand nearby and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. I'm a little leery about this one, and I'm not even sure if it's going to make the noise when not under load anyway.
I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
Have an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
View 1 RepliesI have taken it to 3 different dealer service centers, and everytime they charge me to update the computer software. They still haven't fixed anything, and everytime I leave the dealer after "getting it fixed", within 25 miles the problem reoccurs. According to my owner's manual the electronic throttle control malfunction warning light is only on the Hemi Rams.
The problem causes the truck to jerk, idle improperly, the engine loses power and shuts off at low speeds usually when turning, and sometimes when the truck accelerates after a complete stop, it hesitates causing the tires to screech when it finally builds up enough RPM to move, this last one has caused me several explanations to police officers on why I am "laying rubber" on their city streets, as if the Hemi emblem doesn't attract enough unwanted attention from the local highway law enforcement officers..
I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
View 10 RepliesI went to check out a '03 7.3 SD the other day. It didn't seem to have a lot of surge when I accelerated to freeway speeds. Kind of lazy feeling. Didn't smoke out the back though. It did have a front end clunking sound going over the parking lot speed bumps. I opened the oil fill cap while it was idling and it blew a plume of vapor/oil about 9' high like a steam engine puffing. Held my hand over it and got a oil wet palm after just a few seconds. I'm hesitant to drop any $$ on it.
View 6 RepliesGrill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 2010 crate 5.7 hemi in it.
Recently, I would go to start the truck, and it would just crank and not start, and the ETC light would come on. I'm able to cycle the key to off, then start it again when I give it gas. I try to clean the throttle body regularly, but it was clean today when I checked it. Sometimes it will start, and immediately the ETC light will come on, and the engine will miss very badly. If I plug a scanner into the truck when the light comes on, no codes are present. What may be causing this?
So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
View 5 RepliesWhat is the name or a store url where I could order this part below for the Hyundai Sonata 2008....
View 7 RepliesI have a 4dr 2005 Hyundai Accent, CL. It has 139,927 miles on it.
Today when I was accelerating onto the Hwy, a dashboard light came on. When I checked the manual it says "Malfunction Indicator Light". It says, This light illuminates when there is a malfunction of an exhaust gas related component and the system is not functioning properly so that the exhaust gas regulation valves are not satisfied.
Chevy trailblazer 2007
Between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm (only 20% of the time) I hear, and feel, a clunk that seems to emanate somewhere near / behind the driver seat. The error code (an 834 ? possibly but I forget exactly...but def in the 800 series) says " transmission component slipping".
Trans oil full, and clear.
The clunk sound happens on any terrain, and is very random. And going up-hill does not bring it on. The clunk's been happening for about 2,000 miles.
The orig transmission was replaced 15,000 miles ago.With a used one. Total mileage on car now 75,000.
Mechanics give varied explanations, and prognoses (none are good) but no one knows what's going on for sure.
My rear air suspension keeps dropping. Sometimes my suspension goes down all the way when parked, but not all the time. When I start the car it goes back up. It's a 2003 GX470.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
View 2 RepliesJust recently got a sweet deal on an 01 Lariat with a very low mileage 5.4L. I almost didn't purchase it because the oil pressure gauge will not read when you start the engine. Sometimes it will sometimes not.
When it does read, it is just past half which is the normal reading. When it doesn't read, it shows zero and the light is on. The engine runs fine either way, and the previous owner said it has been that way for years. The engine has been well cared for, and has been running Mobile 1 full synthetic for most of the 80k miles. The oil was not overly dirty at purchase, so I figured it to be a loose connection. I suffer from the cold solder joints that these trucks are plaqued with, as evident by the intermittent odometer reading. Do you think the oil gauge issue is the same thing? A cold solder joint? Or should i just start with a new sender?
1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
View 7 Replies I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?