S-10 :: 2002 Blazer Won't Shift OUT Of 4WD?
Jan 15, 2012
I seem to have a problem getting our 2002 Chevy Blazer to shift out of 4WD. We hardly ever use the 4wd, but quite a bit of snow today, so switched it on. Later in the day, it started to melt and we had dry pavement, so we tried to switch it back to the 2HI position.
After pressing the 2HI button, there were several clicks, sounding like it was coming from the glove compartment area, the 2HI light would flash for a couple seconds, then switch back to 4HI.
It is an automatic, I searched the manual and tried everything it suggested, I'm thinking maybe some type of relay, sensor or fuse is out?
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I have a 93 S10 blazer that has electric 4X4 shift. The only way it will shift into 4X4 is to come to a complete stop put truck in neural and hit the 4X4 low then both lights flash then both lights remain lit then i can hit 4X4 high both light flash again I hear 4X4 module click and front axle engage but I'm not sure of its in 4X44 if I hit 4X4 hi again both lights flash again and I hear the clicks but when u go 2 drive its like its in super super low gear if u don't put truck in neutral and come to a complete stop no matter wat button hi or low u hit nothing will happen.
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2002 Chev trailblazer, I have had the throttle body cleaned.... Sometimes after short stops, my vehicle will not crank, some times I have to step on the gas several times and it will finally crank, it sets no codes, no check engine lights come on. If it sits overnight, or for more than 20 minutes it cranks right up.
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Went to start the truck, turned the key - dash lit up, fuel pump primed, turned the key all the way and nothing. Truck did not even try to turn over, headlights did not dim, no starter, no crank.
I checked/tested the following:
-Battery and terminal connections - good fully charged 12.3v
-Ran battery charger on slow charge 10-15 min (quick) to full 13v
-Wiring to starter - good
-Relay box under hood - has power
-Starter relay - has wiring diagram on it - tested good.
-Every ignition related fuse in the relay box - all good
-Every ignition fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box - good
-I wiggled the ignition switch while turning every possible way - no crank
-I ran the gearshift lever through all the gears, tried to start it in neutral - no crank
-Rolled the truck a little, put in park - no crank
For some reason I decided to double check the # 24 RDO IGN fuse - it was fine. With the fuse still out I tried to start the truck and it STARTED!
I turned the truck off, replaced the fuse and the truck started again and, so far, ever since. I do not think the # 24 fuse had anything to do with it; I just got lucky.
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A co-worker has an issue with a 2002 Chevy Blazer where the oil is mixed with the coolant. My understanding is the usual causes of this are blown head gasket, cracked cylinder head, or cracked engine block. If the cause is a head gasket, they'll probably fix it. Cracked cylinder head makes fixing it iffy. A cracked engine block probably means junking the vehicle. Is there a fairly inexpensive way of determining the cause?
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I have an 02 Blazer w/ 110K miles. It's the 4.3L with 4WD. When I start it in the morning it usually has a low pulsing whirring sound for up to 30 seconds. It then goes away until the car is parked for a long time again, say overnight. It's a low volume sound, a lot like the sound of off road tires running down the highway. This has been going on for several months now.
All systems work fine. The alternator is new, the water pump has about 29K on it, and the top idler pulley has been replaced. Turning the A/C on or off makes no difference. The sound is loudest when you stand in front of the passenger side headlight which made me suspect and swap the alternator.
Could it be the belt? It was replaced with the WP and the ribs are not smooth inside. They are notched. I assume that's to improve the flexibility of the belt. If I take it to a shop they'll get 30 seconds each morning to diagnose it.
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I recently moved to a place in the Caribbean that has very steep paved & unpaved roads, lots of potholes. I have a 2002 Chevy blazer, has 4wd, hi & low (not automatic 4wd). What is the best way to drive these roads? Someone told me its ok to leave the truck in 4wd when on "the country" roads even though they are paved but the Chevy manual says not to do this. I have been putting it in second to go down the hills. Still figuring out up hill. I'm not used to driving this terrain and want to learn it right.
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I own a 2002 Chev. small blazer with 4 wheel drive available. Largest V-6 available. There is a clunk sound I can hear and feel as this vehicle is shifting OUT of 4 wheel into 2 wheel drive. Going from 2 to 4 wheel drive is perfect. First mechanic (test drove alone) said he would have to tear apart the front transfer case to determine fault. 2nd mechanic (with me along) did power brake slow turns in parking lot. Said the electric shifter was bad and would have to tear apart the transfer case also. Neither mechanic put the vehicle up on a hoist.
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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I have a 2002 Celica GT automatic and it wont shift out of what seems like 3rd. The car starts and runs fine and reverse works great but when I put it in drive it seems to be starting out in 3rd and will not shift out of it no mater how fast or slow I go. I tried to manually shift from low to 2nd and then to drive and nothing it still starts in 3rd. What may be causing this?
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My 2002 Camry has an automatic transmission that works fine except when it is about 20 degrees or colder. The problem is that the transmission does not want to shift from first to second gear. After about ten minutes things shift normally. Other than that I have had no issues with the transmission.
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I recently got into my 2002 SC430 and could not shift the car out of park. In addition, another symptom was that when I pressed the brake pedal, my rear brake lights would either come on momentarily and then turn off (looked like a strobe-light effect), OR the rear brake lights would not come on at all (the taillights, however, continued to function).
The only way to get around this issue was to use the manual override (by taking out the little plastic tab on the shifter and using a screw driver to press the hidden button, which would momentarily override and let me shift).
After much research, I found out that my Brake Switch/Sensor was failing (this is what tells the car's computer that you're pressing the brake pedal, and thus allowing you to shift out of Park). Unfortunately, I don't have the model number handy.
My non-Lexus mechanic charged me $100 (parts and labor) to replace the Brake Switch/Sensor. I'm not sure how much the actual part cost, but it couldn't have been much. It's a very scary feeling when you need to drive somewhere quick and you cannot shift out of Park.
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My 02 Alero will start, but when I went to put it into reverse it looked into neutral and wont come out. I can move the gear shift but it won't come out of gear.
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2002 Honda CRV. Has 62,000 miles. When 1st started there is a noticeable hard shift from 1st to 2nd. If you drive a short distance, say 2 blocks and come to a stop and take off again it shifts smoothly, will shift fine the rest of the in town stop and go driving. ( Does not matter cold or warm ) If you shut off the vehicle for just 5 minutes. the same thing happens, a noticeable clunk shifting 1st to 2nd. Do notice that the rpms do go up past the normal shift rpm, so if you let up on the accelerator it will not clunk or hard shift. Trans oil has been changed, did not notice anything in the drain oil. Fluid was normal color.Does this transmission have a filter that should be changed? Did some on line looking and see some mention of a linear solenoid?
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Found on road dead is right, my car has 160000 miles before it broke down. The early symptoms that I noticed was my brake light would come on every now and then. When my car first broke down a plastic pin or clip that connects to the column above the transmission next to the senor disconnected. I noticed this when my car wouldn't move and then I put it back into the hole so it can shift into which it did when I started it. I then went to a store and got a metal pin to hold it in place so I can shift into my gears.
After I left the store about 30 min later I was trying to get up to speed and my car wouldn't go over 45 mph and then wouldn't shift into any gears and I parked it on the did of the road. I later replace the plastic pin that holds the shifter cable to the transmission column and still nothing. I then thought it was the transmission range sensor because the brake light is on and still nothing. When I turn on my car the brake light remains on and I can shift out of park and when i do that it will shift threw all the gears. I'm starting to think my transmission gone but I'm confused why the brake light is on.
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a couple of weeks ago, when it was about -15 here, my car started acting strange. In the morning after I started it I tried to shift into drive and it wouldn't engage. The same happened in reverse. I would shift into drive (or reverse) and it would not shift. I would put it in the park then shift back to drive and after a couple of times it worked. Once I am up and running it seems to be fine, it shifts up as it is supposed to when I am increasing speeds and it does not slip out of drive. I thought at first it was the cold, but has continued to happen - usually just in the mornings - even now that the weather has warmed up (!) to 20. The fluid seems fine according to the dip stick and the color of the fluid is pink and has a sweet smell, no burning smell. Could this be a first sign of bigger issues or something that can be taken care of with a fluid change or flush?
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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Own a 2002 Camry 4 cyl with 186K, like it soooo much ,once a day I get something like a missed shift around 20 mph .
I notice that over 65 mph, the RPM's are higher than my other Camry: 65 mph 2450 RPM instead of 2300. 70 RPM 2700 RPM instead of 2450. 75 MPH 2900 RPM instead of 2700.
At 80 MPH drifts between 3000 - 3200 RPM instead of 2800. When idling in park, I heard a whining noise coming from the Trans. I was told it recently had the engine replaced.
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I have a 2002 Regal LS 196000 miles and am getting a harsh shift with a P1811C code. 3.8 engine, MN3 code 4T65E and I was wondering if I should try the ZZ shift kit and the sea foam trick.
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When you sit in the car and put it in reverse it wont go in.
If you stick your hand in the engine compartment, push down on the golf club looking linkage and shift it into reverse it goes right in and you are able to back up the car.
So my question is which linkage may need fixing or replacing or adjustment. The shifter linkage in the car? the linkage on the golf club thing or any parts in between.
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I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6 2.7 liter, FWD, 215,000+ miles. When it shifts from 2nd to 3rd the whole vehicle jerks. It does not do this on the other gears. I took it by a transmission place for a free scan and they said the transmission is fine.
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