SC/SL/SW :: 2000 - Check Engine Light / P0440 And P0507 Came On
Nov 11, 2010
I was looking for some diagnosing the problem with my car. I've already gone and put one of those autozone scanners on it, and it gave me a very vague idea of what could be wrong. It pulled a P0440 and P0507 code. I go to work and school full time so I don't have the time to be poking around at everyone of those possibilities.
The check engine light came on a few months back, the acceleration has been bad since then, but it just recently started running worse. While accelerating the car jerks horribly, but then will smooth out if I give it more gas or let off a little bit.
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It just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
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Check engine light was on for some time when I had filler neck and cap replaced. Computer sensors did not re-set until 501 mile mark, when light came on again. Checking the web, I find that some who appear to have knowledge of problem say it could be hoses, sensors, valves, or evap canister--the charcoal canister.
Mechanic who did original smoke test and recommended replacement of filler tube wants to replace evap canister without checking anything else. What should I do? At wits end, and car needed to pass inspection 2 days ago. Car has 157,000 miles or so...
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Replace this when they got a code p0440? If so, which way did you go about replacing? if so, did u have to drop the tank or from cutting from underneath the seat? Is this the same location as from the 1st gen is300?
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My check engine light is on and I'd like to try to read the codes myself without the machine. Any proper link here that I can follow to read the codes? When I search I'm returning mainly threads that tell me to GO get it scanned versus pulling the codes myself.
2002 Hyundai Accent GS
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Alright so my mothers car is a 2000 passat 30v v6 5 speed and the check engine light will come on and off at random times. I had the codes checked yesterday and one was for the Mass air flow sensor and the other was for the "heated" oxygen sensor but what confuses me is that the light will shut off then turn back on a day later. I have to get this car through emissions for her and cant with the CEL
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Granddaughter showed up with her '02 Accent idle varying between 600 and 2500 rpm. Disconnected Idle Speed Control Actuator and engine runs at very high idle so apparently the ECM is unsuccessfully attempting to manage the idle and the ISC is functioning. Reading P0507 code. Checked for vacuum leaks beyond throttle body, found none.
The car was involved in a fender bender accident a couple days before the idle issue. No CEL until a couple days after the accident. The varying idle started many days after the CEL.
The wreak cut a half dozen wires in the area outside of the battery. She repaired them and I just finished redoing with solder and shrink wrap. Found no faults with her twist and tape repairs or any other damage to wiring. Varying idle still there.
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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The Check Engine Light is on. Diagnostic Codes: P0722, P1618, and P1633. Do these mean the output speed sensor/connector wires should be replaced? Is this a DIY job?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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Just curious as I don't see the check engine light on my Accent 2004 GVS. Not even when I insert the key in the starter switch.
My mechanic told me this model doesn't come with a check engine light which I cant believe.
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How do I re-set CEL without a scanner ? I've heard about battery disconnect , but concerned about causing other issues . 2000 Passat V6 GLS wagon 4motion Tiptronic .
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 sedan (under 100k miles). For two years now I have had a check engine light.
Originally I was told it was a CO sensor that was broke. But now when I get the car inspected, the inspector says I have a catalytic error.
So off to the mechanic. They replace the catalytic converter, claiming it was just an empty shell.
Check engine light comes back on the next day after all that money spent. Back to the mechanic. He says now that the intakes into the catalytic system there are all clogged, so that needs to be scrubbed. Many hundred dollars later, and the problem persists. Still a check engine light.
What could be causing this check engine light nightmare? I cannot get the car inspected so I have that added head ache.
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I have a Honda CR-V that has had its 'check engine light' on for some time. Hoping all i had to do was change the plugs. There was engine oil in all 4 spark plug wells. Car has 150k on odo.
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I haven't checked the fuse yet so it may just be that. The inspection guy thought that it might be the seller "unhooked" it. How I might look further into this? Where would it be "unhooked" from?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 90,300 miles. Last week check engine light came on and mechanic said it was P0440 and charcoal canister needed replacement. Did the repairs and 20 miles and two days later CEL is on again. Take it back to mechanic and codes this time are P0441 and P0446. I'm told I need a new gas cap, so it's replaced with new one from dealer. 15 miles later, CEL comes back on and I return to mechanic. This time it's reading all three codes, but they can't find anything wrong. The only parts not replaced are the vacuum seal valves, which mechanic says test as good. They reset lights and 15 miles later, the check engine light is back on. My mechanic is baffled. What the problem could be or what they should check? Car drives fine, but light coming on is annoying.
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My 2000 deville (which i never drive) but start up and let run decided to give a BIG problem today. I went to charge my a/c up and when I started it it was running very rough... Last week it did it also but after letting it run it smoothed out but today it stayed same and was actually worse. I drove it around the block and check engine light was flashing and car was sputtering like it didn't want to go. Sputtering out of exhaust and exhaust was getting real hot and giving off smoke from behind tires area. it was actually starting to burn my grass. I don't understand why it would do this all of a sudden. I pulled codes and this is what was there
p01571
u1040
u1064
u1192
The only code that is usually in there is the tcc code and its been for years..
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A couple of weeks ago the check engine light came on and when I had the codes checked it showed a problem with the EGR valve. I replaced it and the light went off. A week later the check engine light came back on but when I had the error codes checked there weren't any. After a few days the light went off but earlier today it came back on. There are still no error codes.
I forgot to mention that it's a 2000 Camry, 6-cyl.
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My 2001 accent 4dr will start up no problem when everything is cold, but once I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes and if i shut it off, it will start back up but then it stalls and wont start back up, or if i just let it run a little bit longer it also stalls, no problems with fuel pump or relay when it is cold it starts right up, but once it stalls it wont turn back on....the pump is getting power even when its hot so could it be a bad wire or should i test the coils when it gets hot or am i completely looking at the wrong thing?
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I have an accent 2003 1.6 dohc crank but not start !!! Who do not fire and no gas ... and the check engine light is off when I turn the key on... (I test the check engine light and it is not burn).
I change the engine control relay and this is not work... I have all the wiring diagram and I check wire by wire and I don't find anything...
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