My car has been running great and last week when I turned it off it would not start back up. I checked the battery, starter, alternator, and all the fuses and still nothing. It cranks over fine but I have no power to the radio or door locks. What can be the problem?
View 1 RepliesWell, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
View 4 RepliesHeadlights work, done and door lights also work. Radio, door locks, and window controls do not. Car will no longer start and it doesn't seem to be the battery or starter, but I may be mistaken.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
View 8 RepliesVehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
On my 2005 Elantra - my radio, dash board clock, dome light, and keyless entry stopped working all at the same time.
Fuse #25 that controls these features is burnt out. As i replace this fuse, it immediately sparks and blows the new fuse.
We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
Ok been having some electrical issues. Im a disabled war vet and cannot afford overpriced mechanics so me and dad try to fix everything. Started weeks ago while driving if I flashed my high beams on I would lose power which made me think it was the altenator at first. Car left me stranded so had it towed to dads where we are trying to track down the problem on a 96 lexus es300. Now the car wont turn over although I do hear a clicking from the relay upfront. The headlights wont come on and door locks and security system no longer work.
Battery is new and good so we thought it was the ignition. Replaced today after tearing apart most of the dash to get to it . It fired up and cranked once then ceased to turnover yet again. When it turned over headlights and all power worked to door locks again. Fuses all seem good but seems there is an intermittent problem somewhere. Checked the 40amp fuse and it looked slightly blackish but intact and checked with volt meter and it tested fine. Im not sure where to go from this point. Maybe the integration switch or starter relay??
My landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
View 4 RepliesI have 2006 Elantra GLS. It has power door locks. But when I start driving the auto door lock does not work. Is there a way to check if this model has auto door lock or not. or How to enable auto door locking.
View 1 RepliesOur 2002 Passat 1.8 wagon has major electrical issues. Problems with the door locks, interior lights and believe it or not, the car will not start in the hot weather. The car also has to be started everyday or the battery gets drained for some odd reason...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
View 10 RepliesMy 2002 Grand AM turns over like it wants to start but dies right away. Head lights and all work good but right off dome light, radio, and electric car door locks didn't work. After reading and trying the security bypass by putting the key to ON etc., many tries I did finally kill the battery. Jumped it for quite a while and same issue.
The security light has been on for years with no issue but doesn't narrow down if it is the bypass problem since it stays on but the other electric items not working at the same time has me perplexed.
The power door locks on my '99 Tahoe do not always work. Most of the time they all operate except for the front passenger door. It attempts to move, maybe halfway, but doesn't lock or unlock all the way. It works fine manually. The keyfob works the same way as the door switch. About 10% of the time they all work fine including the passenger door.
I've been told they might not be getting enough voltage due to loose connections. The connections look good as far as I can tell. What should I look for on my multimeter and where should I test it?
I now have 2 doors (driver and left rear doors) that have sluggish power door locks. They sometimes work, but always have energy when operated.
I'm thinking that maybe it's a connector with resistance and causing a voltage drop since it's on both doors on the same side of the car.
01 Monte Carlo SS the power door locks do not work - when using the door switches or the key fob. Alarm activates but the doors don't lock. Fuse is good.
View 3 RepliesPower door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Taurus and recently the power windows and power locks stopped working. They won't work from any door switch but when I use the key fob to unlock or lock the car the locks will work. However, the windows won't work from any door switch. I didn't see a fuse marked for the windows or locks.
View 3 RepliesPower door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
I have a 2003 jetta GLI (vr6 6 speed) that i received from a friend because of some body damage to the doors mainly. so i replaced the doors with some from a 2001 jetta glx, but the power windows don't work with the switches inside the car. However, when I put the key in the door and turn it, all of the windows will go up and down...(So the motors are good and they are getting power) the door locks, gas cap lid, trunk, sunroof all work and the interior lights work as well.
So i researched it and everyone said fuse #14 or ccm... so i replaced the fuse.... multiple times now just to make sure... After that didn't work, i bought a new ccm with the same part #. that didn't work at all... still same problems... I was wondering if maybe the new doors are or aren't CAN-BUS? if that even matters?
So on my 2001 excursion v10 my power door locks won't work. The 30amp fuse under the hood is blown and originally thought it was simply the fuse. No biggie picked up a new fuse... yay it works! Well it did for 2 locks and 2 unlocks then blown. So after reading I suspected it was the resistor inside the door lock actuator. So I did the free mod (taking them all apart and using foil instead of a resistor) got done last night popped in a new fuse... 2 locks 2 unlocks and a blown fuse. So I feel like I wasted a bunch of time doing the resistor mod but whatever,and now im back where I started. So right before this problem started originally one of my boys was messing with the number pad on the driver door. Not sure if its related just thought I'd put that in for out there.
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