Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 2.4 Model Cuts Out And Won't Start - No Spark
Mar 18, 2015
I am new here just bought a santa fe 2002 2.4 model and its playing up it will start run for a few mins then die and wont start again for a while. the crank sensor has been renewed as has the cam position sensor the fuel pump makes the normal noise so fuel is getting threw the only other symptom is when it cuts out and wont start i check both ignition coils and neither are sparking yet there is power to both, all fuses are fine .
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Its a 2002 Santa Fe 2.0 turbo diesel. When driving the engine will suddenly cut out. Its as though the ignition has been turned off, there is no hesitation or warning, it just shuts down.
This is what has been done so far: New high pressure fuel pump fitted by main dealer in June. My mechanic has fitted a new high pressure fuel sensor, new low pressure fuel pump (at rear by fuel tank), changed relays around, checked all fuel injectors (found in good condition) and checked various connection plugs and wiring. At motorway speeds the engine will not cut, its only at lower speeds. When it cuts the EML comes on with a 'Fuel Pressure Fault' code. Sometimes the light doesn't come on. Sometimes the light comes on but will go out the next day. When the engine cuts out you have to wait 20 seconds before it will re-start. If you try to start before this the engine will only turn over without firing. The car has only done 79000 miles. The main dealer gave up and said they don't know where the fault is because the code is not specific enough.
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I did a valve job on a 2002 Santa re 2.7 after I got it done and all back together I don't have and spark at the coils all of them are dead I'm sure the coils did go bad form sitting.
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2.4L. Starter cranks but engine doesn't start. Per other forums I have changed the crank sensor and cam sensor, spark plugs. No change. I went back and did Volt meter test on the new sensors: Crank sensor showed 13 volt on red wire, 0 and 5 volt while cranking on blue wire. Cam sensor had 13 volt on red wire and 13 volt on signal wire while cranking. Was expecting alternating 0-5 volt. Could I have a bad ECM?
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So for about two months now, every time I get gas, the pump cuts off almost immediately after i start pumping. After that, I am able to pump about a second or two before the pump shuts off. It recently has started spitting gas back out of the tank (I'm assuming it's the gas I just pumped into it being spit out). I'm not sure what is wrong. I have not gotten into an accident, there is no smell of gas in the car, the gauge still works fine, and no check engine light on.
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I somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
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I have a 2006 2.4l petrol (and an LPG gas system) model that is becoming impossible to drive due to the engine cutting out. I had all the plugs changed an injector thingy and some leads last week when it first started to cut.
At first we thought it was the gas system because it was running on gas the first few times it died. I've just taken it out to road test the petrol (with the gas turned off) and it did it again. It happens mostly when at idle (traffic lights) but has also cutout twice at speed on the main road. You can't restart it, it turns over for ever and doesn't fire up...but I did bump start it once. The next day it will start as if nothing was wrong. I haven't been able to access whether any lamps come on (mainly due to being in panic mode at some junction).
So my questions to the experts are based on the 3 main culprits mentioned elsewhere:
Alarm or immobiliser.- is there any way to disable the alarm/immobiliser so I can check if it is that?
Fuel and fuel pressure systems. - can I assume that because it does it on both fuel types that it isn't fuel filter/pressure pump like?
Cam sensor. - I have a mechanic friend who repairs everyone's car at work (600+ people and I think he's mended a good half of those)..is the fitting of a cam sensor only doable with some strange specialist tuning/timing equipment or is it a simple case of unscrew, replace and good is?
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My 2002 Hyandai Sante Fee will not start up every time I put gas in it. The mechanics cannot find the problem. I had to change my starter two times in 6 months because I keep flooding the starter to start it up. What this might be?
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Just bought a used but in pretty decent shape, 2002 Santa Fe, with 6 cylinder engine, 112K miles. I read the post about the vehicle that was hard to start after filling up - but this one is hard to start all the time - every time. Cranks fine, but once cranking, have to pump the gas pedal several times, and then it chugs just a second and then starts running. Slilght smell of gas if the hood is up, just after starting. Once running however, it runs perfectly on city and hwy. I have one mech that tells me "definitely the fuel pump" and another that tells me "definitely the purge valve" - this of course just from me describing the conditions, they have not actually seen it.
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When I start it up it won't idle untill you give it gas to 2500 rpms and slowly let off the pedal to 1000 rpms to keep it running and itll stay running. When you turn it off you have to redo it all over again. The plugs and wires were replaced. It started doing it couple days after the back 3 plugs and wires were replaced. Just got the fuel pressure regulator replaced and it still wont start up without giving it gas.
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My beloved Hyundai Santa Fe,2006 model's engine light came up. The engine starts and than about 10 seconds after cuts out straight away. What to do. I have always taken care of this car and being serviced well.
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2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
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Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe that died on me while driving down my street. The engine sounded like it was loading up for about 1-2 seconds, then it died. It turns over but does not fire.
After a little troubleshooting, I have no spark in cylinders 1 and 4. I swapped the two coils thinking that I had a bad coil, but then the suspected bad coil created spark on the 2-3 cylinder side. So both coils work.
I towed the car to the shop and the mechanic after about 2 hours of billed labor, he is leaning toward a bad ecu. He said there also is no fuel metering from two of the fuel injectors. He checked the resistance on the injectors and said they are fine. He is thinking it is a control/command issue. The car has many other unrelated problems and I am not sure I want to spend too much more money on it.
I am skeptical about a bad ecu. Or sensors that may be causing my two cylinder no spark and alleged fuel problem?
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I bought a 2004 Santa fe with the 2.4 engine not running. It will not get spark, it is getting fuel I can smell it strong after cranking...It has a new crank position sensor, I took the timing cover off to verify. Whoever put the sensor on cut the wires and soldered/ heat shrink them back together obviously because they didn't want to remove the timing belt. It Also it has a new ignition failure sensor, all fuses are good, there was a spare computer in the vehicle which I tried still no luck. I took loom off and looked at the harness and can't find anything.
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My Santa Fe quit running one day as I was driving. The fuel pump hums when I turn the key to on. The spark plugs look ok. One coil is not getting a spark. We replaced that coil and it still isn't sparking. The timing belt appears to be fine. I bought an OBD II reader, and it gave me the code for the camshaft position sensor. We replaced that today, but there is still no spark. I cleared the code and tried to start the car. There are no codes present so I am assuming I fixed the camshaft sensor issue. Next up on the list is to replace the wiring leading up to the ignition coil. I gave it a quick look over. It appears to be ok, but I might replace it anyway. The outer housing is cracked a little, but the car is 13 years old so I expect that. Before it died there was an awful sound coming from the engine. It sounded like a piston was rubbing/scraping. I am throwing that out there just in case it is related to my electrical issues. I have noticed other weird electrical issues as well. The middle brake light usually works, but sometimes it doesn't work and sometimes only part of it works.
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Here's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe, 2.4L.
Last night, I added some power steering stop leak to my PS system, but I accidentally spilled some below the reservoir. Soon after, that area of the engine starting making a consistent "spark"-type noise. I think it has something to do with the belt, because when I turn on AC, the noise gets a little faster in rhythm.
I say "spark" noise because it sounds like an electrical spark, rather than clicking or whining.
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So it finally happened...One day she was working just fine and now is dead. OK, starter is working, battery is new but there's absolutely no spark on any of the spark plugs. I wonder what could it be ?
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Freshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
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