2.4L. Starter cranks but engine doesn't start. Per other forums I have changed the crank sensor and cam sensor, spark plugs. No change. I went back and did Volt meter test on the new sensors: Crank sensor showed 13 volt on red wire, 0 and 5 volt while cranking on blue wire. Cam sensor had 13 volt on red wire and 13 volt on signal wire while cranking. Was expecting alternating 0-5 volt. Could I have a bad ECM?
View 2 RepliesI somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
I am new here just bought a santa fe 2002 2.4 model and its playing up it will start run for a few mins then die and wont start again for a while. the crank sensor has been renewed as has the cam position sensor the fuel pump makes the normal noise so fuel is getting threw the only other symptom is when it cuts out and wont start i check both ignition coils and neither are sparking yet there is power to both, all fuses are fine .
View 21 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe that died on me while driving down my street. The engine sounded like it was loading up for about 1-2 seconds, then it died. It turns over but does not fire.
After a little troubleshooting, I have no spark in cylinders 1 and 4. I swapped the two coils thinking that I had a bad coil, but then the suspected bad coil created spark on the 2-3 cylinder side. So both coils work.
I towed the car to the shop and the mechanic after about 2 hours of billed labor, he is leaning toward a bad ecu. He said there also is no fuel metering from two of the fuel injectors. He checked the resistance on the injectors and said they are fine. He is thinking it is a control/command issue. The car has many other unrelated problems and I am not sure I want to spend too much more money on it.
I am skeptical about a bad ecu. Or sensors that may be causing my two cylinder no spark and alleged fuel problem?
I did a valve job on a 2002 Santa re 2.7 after I got it done and all back together I don't have and spark at the coils all of them are dead I'm sure the coils did go bad form sitting.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2004 Santa fe with the 2.4 engine not running. It will not get spark, it is getting fuel I can smell it strong after cranking...It has a new crank position sensor, I took the timing cover off to verify. Whoever put the sensor on cut the wires and soldered/ heat shrink them back together obviously because they didn't want to remove the timing belt. It Also it has a new ignition failure sensor, all fuses are good, there was a spare computer in the vehicle which I tried still no luck. I took loom off and looked at the harness and can't find anything.
View 8 RepliesMy Santa Fe quit running one day as I was driving. The fuel pump hums when I turn the key to on. The spark plugs look ok. One coil is not getting a spark. We replaced that coil and it still isn't sparking. The timing belt appears to be fine. I bought an OBD II reader, and it gave me the code for the camshaft position sensor. We replaced that today, but there is still no spark. I cleared the code and tried to start the car. There are no codes present so I am assuming I fixed the camshaft sensor issue. Next up on the list is to replace the wiring leading up to the ignition coil. I gave it a quick look over. It appears to be ok, but I might replace it anyway. The outer housing is cracked a little, but the car is 13 years old so I expect that. Before it died there was an awful sound coming from the engine. It sounded like a piston was rubbing/scraping. I am throwing that out there just in case it is related to my electrical issues. I have noticed other weird electrical issues as well. The middle brake light usually works, but sometimes it doesn't work and sometimes only part of it works.
View 4 Replies2004 santa fe, 2.7 L engine, temperature control doesn't work, it blows out hot air only. All fuses look good and I tried a new A/C heater control unit with no luck.
View 5 RepliesRecently our 2003 SF, 2.7 v6, has begun not recognizing the ''D'' selection. It seems to know you want ''R'' or n or P. It has given a P0705 code indicating a problem with the switch that governs this. Where is the switch located ? Is it available from local parts or would you go to a dealer to get one. Assuming I can get to it; do I need any special tools ? It ain't much fun if you cant drive it.
View 3 RepliesHere's the run down:
-bought 6 months ago for cheap because it wouldn't pass smog test
-changed Purge Control Valve (PCV) and it passed
-filled with gas, heard popping noises like a backfire, and coded it read the same "Bank 1 and Bank 2 running lean, like it did before the PCV and then also "Cylinder 3 Misfire" appeared.
-At this point the car started running rough, at idle, and through acceleration...sputtering uphill, and when climbing through the gears.
-Changed the plugs & wires
-NOW, it's cylinder 5 misfiring, and not nearly as bad. It's idling and running rough, acceleration has somewhat come back, but it's definitely not 100%.
Should I start with the PCV again, since it's not starting after I fill the tank, and climbing gears slow? Is there anything else I should be checking?
Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
View 3 RepliesI have 2005 Santa fe. I replaced the battery about 1000 km (about 600 miles) ago. Interior lights are bright. Now the car won't start, starter doesn't crank at all. At first I thought that it's an immobilizer problem, but not so sure now.
Could you tell me how Hyundai's immobilizer works. Some other cars starts but then turns off if immobilizer is on. Is it the same thing with Santa Fe?
I read from the manual that immobilizer-light should blink if immobilizer is on. I have not watched the dashboard lights so accurately before this. When I turn key to position "on", the immobilizer-light turns on (it doesn't blink). Is it supposed to do so and turn off when the car is running? Or is that a sign that immobilizer is on?
I have a 2003 Santa Fe, 2.4L.
Last night, I added some power steering stop leak to my PS system, but I accidentally spilled some below the reservoir. Soon after, that area of the engine starting making a consistent "spark"-type noise. I think it has something to do with the belt, because when I turn on AC, the noise gets a little faster in rhythm.
I say "spark" noise because it sounds like an electrical spark, rather than clicking or whining.
So for the last few weeks our 2007 3.3L V6 GL is having trouble starting (extended crank). Sometimes it's fine, but other times the engine just turns, so it takes 2 or 3 tries to get it to start.
Initially this seems like a fuel filter issue to me, but these fuel filters are "unserviceable", which I believe means they shouldn't ever have to be replaced (right?). I just had a servicing done at Midas, and they weren't able to tell me what the problem was.
The vehicle has 94k kms (58k miles) on it.
This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
2005, 2.7l. FWD automatic, with 180,000+ miles.
A week ago it started making a random ticking noise I've never heard before. Today was the first chance I got to try and find it and I'm stumped on what could cause this.
The sound is a static or low voltage electrical discharge coming off the harmonic balancer. I can actually see the blue spark occurring at random intervals and locations on the balancer as the car is running.
Do i need to be looking for a bad engine ground? I'm having no other electrical problems. The car runs like a champ other than a minor oil and power steering fluid leak.
Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
View 3 RepliesI am working on a 2001 durango 4.7 that will not start I guess it was running bad one day on his way home but he made it home. He noticed two vacuum lines looked really cracked so he replaced them still was not any better. He said you could hear a slaping noise on the passanger side front of the motor for about 2 years. I figure that was the slack in the timing chain. Then it sat for a couple days and know it will not even start I scanned it and showed bad cam sensor PO340 code. So I replaced it and decided to pull a plug and coil and stuck the plug in the end of the coil and held the coil so the plug thread was up against a bolt and cranked and have no spark. So I went and picked up a crank sensor and replaced the old one. Still no start and no spark testing it the way I mentioned above. What to try know not very familiar with these 4.7 and dodge for that matter.
View 7 RepliesWhy my '01 Passport will not start? Was driving down the road and it just shut down on me. It cranks but will not fire. Replaced timing belt, fuel pump, and now ECM still not luck. I know it's getting fuel to the rail but no spark!
View 1 RepliesI have a no start no spark situation i am having trouble diagnosing
Truck started and then died it has fuel pressure but no spark I know that there is a theft light that is flashing (slowly) when the key is off. Could this bee the problem?
2001 V6 passat. the clutch doesn't start to grab until it is almost all the way up. there is maybe 1/2 inch of pedal travel where the clutch is actually grabbing. how much travel should there be when the clutch is actually grabbing?
This is a hydraulic clutch setup, right? so i was thinking best case scenario, it needs fluid or to be bled for air, worst is a new slave cylinder. 100K miles on it, engine ran strong and the clutch didn't slip at all.