Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - No Spark / Strong Smell After Cranking
May 23, 2016
I bought a 2004 Santa fe with the 2.4 engine not running. It will not get spark, it is getting fuel I can smell it strong after cranking...It has a new crank position sensor, I took the timing cover off to verify. Whoever put the sensor on cut the wires and soldered/ heat shrink them back together obviously because they didn't want to remove the timing belt. It Also it has a new ignition failure sensor, all fuses are good, there was a spare computer in the vehicle which I tried still no luck. I took loom off and looked at the harness and can't find anything.
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2001 LS v8 .... What would cause the car to give off a strong smell after changing the plugs?
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I have an Oct 2001 2.7 GLS which apart from the odd ABS Tone Wheel and speed sensor issues has been uber reliable and a real pleasure to own (I've had it from new).
We had a problem about a year ago when the wife didn't get the fuel cut-off when filling up and over filled the car resulting in fuel pouring out of the tank vent and down the fuel tank under the car but after a long drive that cleared up and has not happened again. Interestingly we didn't get any engine CEL's or have any codes turn up at all when checked by my mechanic.
Over the past couple of weeks we have noticed a very strong smell of fuel under the car around the fuel tank. I can't see any indication that there is a fuel leak but have noticed when filling up that the smell is very strong and as the car runs the fuel down the smell reduces to almost nothing.
Today I removed the rear seats and the fuel pump access panels to see if there was any seeping around the pump gaskets but couldn't see anything and the top of the tank around the both pumps was a dry as a bone. Using a torch I did however notice that there was a darkening of the fuel tank surface in the centre which I guess is close to the vent valve, part 311990b:
Or maybe is where the fuel vent pipe runs to?
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I've got a '93 Dakota that wouldn't start this morning after a cold snap, it used to fit just fine in any temp. It's cranking strong, can smell gas, and it's getting spark (used an inline tester). Battery had a full charge. Lay night the windchill got down to -40 Fahrenheit.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83k on it. For some months now, I have always been smelling strong fuel scent in the cabin. I took it to the workshop and was told it's my fuel canister so i handed money to the Mechanic to buy one to replace it. He called back to tell me he cannot get one to but can work on it by blocking the pipes or lines. I am not that convinced because i know the canister is there for a purpose so if he goes ahead to block the pipe or whatever, then it means something else can go wrong in the interim; but I'm in a quandary now and want that fuel scent to stop.
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I had the head gasket replaced along with all the other gaskets that come in the kit. new radiator, water pump, thermostat and thermostat gasket. blew head gasket at 78,000 miles. So now that has been taken care of, slowly everything else is going bad. recently, i pulled up in front of someones house and my suv turned off. When I tried to start it again it made a clanking sound and would not start. AAA'd it home and pulled the timing cover where the source of the sound was coming from. Seen the tensioner pulley loose and the belt loose. got it back on tdc and still does not start. the cranking over sound is lagging and sounds whiny. thought maybe was out of gas so i got gas and now when i try to start it it still is winding but it backfired and there was smoke behind the upper intake and still wont start. It wants to start, but doesn't.
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Every time I start this car there is a strong smell of gasoline. I've already checked for leaks and didn't find any. Could this be caused by the fuel canister in the rear of the vehicle this has gone bad?
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I have no problems pumping gas in, but the entire car cabin smells very strongly of gas after filling up. It seems to come from the area of the charcoal canister. No dripping of gas, no puddles... Did a smoke test, no leaks showed up anywhere (according to the mechanic). I do not want to start throwing parts at this to fix it - where should I start, and in what order should I throw parts? 2003 elantra GT sedan, 70k ....
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I have a 2004 Jetta w/ the 2.0 engine, auto transmission. Lately it has developed a very gassy smell when idling. Could be all the time I guess, but I only ever notice it when idling. It seems more noticeable on the passenger side of the car, or maybe my wife just has a better sense of smell than I do since she noticed it before I did.
The car seems to run fine, about the same as it always has. The idle is slightly rough, but it has been like that ever since I got the car. I got it with about 110,000 miles on it and had the timing belt and water pump replaced as soon as I got it. Mileage now is about 130,000. No info on the maintenance history of the car, but when I had the timing belt changed they said it looked like it was probably the original one.
The check engine light has never come on. I think I'm due for some new spark plugs so I was going to be replacing them soon anyways. Not sure what to check out here that might be causing this?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 3.5L engine and 92,000 miles.
For the past week or so, I have noticed a very slight smell of antifreeze/radiator fluid every once in a while. I assumed that it is a radiator hose leak or possibly a leak in the heater core. But, the vehicle does not overheat, there is no steam or fog inside that would indicate a possible heater core leak, and the radiator fluid level seemed full or almost full (although the radiator overflow container was empty). I added a little water to the radiator and filled the overflow container to make sure there was plenty of radiator fluid in the system.
I haven't seen any radiator fluid on the ground around the vehicle at anytime. When I open the hood, I don't see any leaking hoses. I took off the engine cover to see better, and I don't see any leak around the water pump, or dripping from the pump, or dripping from any hoses, etc. But, BELOW the water pump is something made of cast metal that I am guessing is the automatic transmission(?) -- I really don't know what it is. And, sitting in some valleys or crevices in that part are small pools of green fluid that clearly looks and smells like radiator fluid with antifreeze.
I ran the vehicle for a long time while watching to see if I could create or see the leak or anything dripping etc. But I don't see anything other than
those pools of green liquid just sitting there. I tried moving or wiggling the hoses, and nothing changed. I also tried keeping it running with the heat on high, then later with the AC on high -- still no change. Then I tried using paper towels and sopping up what I could that was in these valleys/crevices, then I drove it again (but only for about 4 miles so far) and I don't see any new fluid in the crevices or anywhere else.
Here are 5 photos that I took with the engine cover off while the green fluid was still there. The photos go from a wider angle overall view down to a view of the green puddles from a slight angle and then down to a top view of the green puddles.
[URL] ....
Where you may see dark areas on the water hoses near the water pump, they are just shadows created by the flash or the sun or whatever. The hoses themselves are all one color and are not wet etc.
My questions:
Am I correct that where the small green puddles are is the automatic transmission?
Is it possible that there is some connection between that (the automatic transmission(?)) and the radiator cooling system?
Is it possible that the cooling system somehow also cools the automatic transmission (or whatever that is)?
If so, could the leak be right there -- maybe where that bolt or the other wire/connection piece is -- and the radiator fluid is coming UP from there? What this may be or where the leak is coming from?
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I'm possibly being paranoid, but twice, after hard driving, my Prius has smelt strongly of burnt plastic/rubber.
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My umbrella and few other items stowed in prius for some months now has a strong plastic/rubbery prius smell. How do I stop/reduce the smell at the source? There seems to be some discussion on its origin but no mention on how to reduce this.
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My 2004 Dodge Stratus has been spiking hot on the temperature gauge recently. For the last few days it has had a strong smell of antifreeze. I haven't seen and dampness on the passenger side floor board, so I don't think it is the heating coil. Seems to have been running a little hotter than usual recently (week). Coolant levels seem to be in good shape. Doesn't look low when hot or cool. Fan seems to be running when the car is on.
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I have a mk4 golf 1.8t that cranks but wont start. It was running fine for about a year. Then one day it will crank and not start. Since this issue has happened I have replaced the :
-fuel pump-
-fuel pump relay-
-coils-
-spark plugs-
-crank position sensor-
-fuses-
the car still cranks strong (with a jump bc its been about a month or so since its actually ran)
no fuses blown
fuel lines have pressure ( maybe have to bleed the lines ?)
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This past winter I started having trouble with my '06 Santa Fe where I would turn the key to start my car and nothing would happen. No cranking, no clicking, no sound. My lights turn on fine, radio, everything else works just fine. Sometimes it won't start for 30+ minutes, and sometimes I'll just try a second time and it'll start up right away.
Last winter when this happened my check engine light came on and so I took it to the dealership and they said it was the crank position sensor that needed replaced. For whatever reason I didn't get it fixed and have been driving my car with no problems whatsoever for 10 months or so, until this weekend when my no start issues started again. The check engine light is on again and it's the same code for the crank position sensor.
I believe I will definitely get the crank sensor fixed this time, but could the issue possibly be anything else? Bad starter? Ignition switch? My mechanic can't give me a definite answer because every time I take it to the shop it starts up just fine for him.
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Several weeks ago I made another thread because I was having crankshaft position sensor problems and essentially that was due to a short on the sensors wires which had become exposed. I replaced the sensor and it still did not work until later trying another brand which solved the problem.
I also changed all six spark plugs, wires, and plenum gasket with OEM parts. I was able to get to the back three plugs by following this tutorial with the guidance of a friend who is a mechanic. After getting this done, the car has run way better and smoother.
However, today it has been raining heavily and I needed to run an errand so I went to my car and turned the key but nothing happened. All the dash lights turned on and appeared normal. My radio works, lights work, etc; but I can not get the car to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump turn on and everything else sounds normal, but still no crank. There are no sounds from the starter at all, it is silent when I try to get the car to turn over.
I took a look at the car and the coil pack seems dry, the plug wires are secure, plus we had put di-electric grease on all those connections. The negative terminal on the battery has a solid connection. I even tried jumping the car to see if maybe it was due to the battery, but again nothing happened.
This has only happened once before when it was raining, before I had changed the plugs and wires, but I was able to get it to crank over after about 4 minutes of waiting and contemplating getting a tow. I took a look at all the fuses and they appear to be intact.
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High mileage santa fe 190K+ miles. Will only start while cranking. Dies when key is in "on" position. Fuel pump runs/cycles normally when turned to "on" position. No obvious vacuum leaks. No intake obstructions. Vehicle will cont to run using starting fluid. Vehicle starts, idles and runs (somewhat poorly) with MAF unplugged. Fuses appear ok (although the fuse cover/fuse index is lost). Stranded at rural property with limited tools and average abilities.
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2.4L. Starter cranks but engine doesn't start. Per other forums I have changed the crank sensor and cam sensor, spark plugs. No change. I went back and did Volt meter test on the new sensors: Crank sensor showed 13 volt on red wire, 0 and 5 volt while cranking on blue wire. Cam sensor had 13 volt on red wire and 13 volt on signal wire while cranking. Was expecting alternating 0-5 volt. Could I have a bad ECM?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Sante Fe that died on me while driving down my street. The engine sounded like it was loading up for about 1-2 seconds, then it died. It turns over but does not fire.
After a little troubleshooting, I have no spark in cylinders 1 and 4. I swapped the two coils thinking that I had a bad coil, but then the suspected bad coil created spark on the 2-3 cylinder side. So both coils work.
I towed the car to the shop and the mechanic after about 2 hours of billed labor, he is leaning toward a bad ecu. He said there also is no fuel metering from two of the fuel injectors. He checked the resistance on the injectors and said they are fine. He is thinking it is a control/command issue. The car has many other unrelated problems and I am not sure I want to spend too much more money on it.
I am skeptical about a bad ecu. Or sensors that may be causing my two cylinder no spark and alleged fuel problem?
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I did a valve job on a 2002 Santa re 2.7 after I got it done and all back together I don't have and spark at the coils all of them are dead I'm sure the coils did go bad form sitting.
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I somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
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