I am struggling to find out any information regarding a droning noise coming from my engine. It generally does it when its just ticking over and disappears when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesOn two separate occasions I have been getting a droning like noise from the right side of the engine and when moving the steering wheel it still makes that same sound but changes slightly and even after when the steering was moved back and forth it still wouldn't go away so I let the vehicle run for a short while it slowly and eventually went away.. what would that sound be from?
View 2 RepliesI love the car, but had a few small gripes, including ride firmness and road noise. Well, the ride firmness has definitely calmed down a great deal over the first 3500 miles to now I find it has a perfect balance of handling vs. comfort. It's firm, but the bumps are not as jarring as those first 500 miles or so. I'm very happy with it.
The 2nd issue I hd/have, is road noise... or rather... I think... suspension noise. It's a faint droning/humming sound that I think comes mostly from the rear. You can start hearing it at 20-30mph on all but the smoothest of roads. The noise seems to be *in addition* to the very, very minimal tire noise I hear from the very nice stock Michelins. The harsher the road, the louder the noise of course.
My guess (and it's only a guess?) is that the metal bushing ('pillow ball') in the rear along with the other firmer suspension parts are the primary cause of this noise.
So I have tried a couple of things to try and counteract this noise:
1) Put D'amplifier Pro in the trunk - Got down the bare metal and put the stuff all of the place back there... Above the wheel wells also.
This did not stop the noise I hear.
2) I then put some sound deadening foam mats above both rear wheel wells.
This did not work.
The strange thing is that this noise is pretty faint, but unmistakable... however if I move my head forward (say, right in line with the steering wheel) 2 feet.... I barely hear it. But when I move back to the normal driving position, there it is.
2002 hyundai santa fe GL2 4 Cyl Automatic ... I noticed that there is a super heavy motorcycle-ish loud noise from my engine when I put it in drive. When it's idle or in reverse or neutral the problem does not occur. but then when I switch it to drive, uber loud noise...which gets louder when I step on the gas.
What has been done so far - replaced spark plugs, ignition coils and plug wires so far...also changed the oil, no fix.
No check engine light at all.....however the battery did die due to someone leaving a light on for days So I am unable to get any code readings.
My 2004 Santa Fe 2.4L manual transmission with 200,000km on it has this hard to explain noise when in gear and coasting. This is when my foot it off the gas and say I'm going down a slight incline. There is a pulsating humming noise, worse in the lower gears that coincides with the engine holding the car back. This only seems to happen during coasting and not when down gearing to slow down. And even when coasting if I press even ever so slightly on the gas so the engine is not holding the vehicle back, it goes away.
The clutch has never been replaced and I'm somewhat assuming it may be the clutch becoming worn.
2002 5.4L... I have a humming noise that comes from my engine and wanted to see if any of yall knew anything about it. I sounds like it's on the other side on the driver side firewall near the brake booster. Once the engine runs for a bit it tends to start then. It'll start to hum then ill tap the gas to get the RPMs up a bit then its gone for couple miles then its right back on.
View 2 RepliesLooking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
This has begun in the last few weeks on my '02 SF (which only has a couple of months left until it is retired )....
If I'm going anywhere between about 90-110 KM, I'll hear an odd high pitched whine. It sounds almost like microphone feedback, and I'm having a really hard time trying to find out where the sound is coming from. It is very subtle and comes and goes.
I just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
I have a 2002 Santa Fe, 2.4, 2WD, stick shift with 125,000 miles on it. The problem started 9 months ago, when I was driving up-hill above 45 or 50 mph that continuous knocking noise came up from the rear-underneath the car, in order to stop it I had to reduce the speed, the problem has been there since then, but now is getting worse due to the noise comes up even driving on the street, when I'm gunning the car and shift to the next gear the noise comes up for 1 second, meanwhile I'm pressing the clutch pedal and then disappears, It's really weird because looks like it is related to the engine but the noise is in the rear.
I forgot to tell that the noise is not metallic, sounds like plastic or rubber, besides I already replaced the rear shock absorbers, inspected the exhaust to see any sign like touching the body of the car and checked all around the tires to see any sign of wear out and nothing, everything looks good.
2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
View 4 RepliesThose are the codes I'm getting. P0340, P1166 and P1167
Here's the story. Engine running flat under load. Easy acceleration is ok, but merging onto the turnpike causes a noticeable loss of power. Replaced the cam sensor, cleared the codes, ran ok for a day. Same codes came back, same flat performance.
Returned the cam sensor with another new one to make sure it wasn't a dud out of the box. Advance Auto Parts is awesome - replaced it no questions asked.
Installed the new cam sensor, cleared the codes. Ran great for a day, then the same symptoms came back, with the same codes. I'm thinking it might be the ECU? If it is, how expensive are they? And do they have to be programmed by the dealer?
This is a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic with around 147k miles on it.
Its a 2002 Santa Fe 2.0 turbo diesel. When driving the engine will suddenly cut out. Its as though the ignition has been turned off, there is no hesitation or warning, it just shuts down.
This is what has been done so far: New high pressure fuel pump fitted by main dealer in June. My mechanic has fitted a new high pressure fuel sensor, new low pressure fuel pump (at rear by fuel tank), changed relays around, checked all fuel injectors (found in good condition) and checked various connection plugs and wiring. At motorway speeds the engine will not cut, its only at lower speeds. When it cuts the EML comes on with a 'Fuel Pressure Fault' code. Sometimes the light doesn't come on. Sometimes the light comes on but will go out the next day. When the engine cuts out you have to wait 20 seconds before it will re-start. If you try to start before this the engine will only turn over without firing. The car has only done 79000 miles. The main dealer gave up and said they don't know where the fault is because the code is not specific enough.
My 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L V6 AWD failed to start a week ago. After towing to my neighborhood repair shop, it was diagnosed as a faulty ECM based on code P560 (System Voltage Problem). They replaced the ECM (along with relay) with a used one with the exact same part#. After that, the car was started and run OK but Check Engine Light stays on all the time. The codes displayed are:
P1529 TCU MIL Request Signal
P0501 VSS Range Performance
I was told that this is caused by the fact that each ECM is VIN/PIN locked. The replacing ECM was used in another car before and was locked with a different VIN thus cannot communicate with some components of the current car.
My questions are:
Can this used ECM be unlocked and relocked with a new VIN/PIN? If so, does it require the previous VIN/PIN to unlock? Most likely the previous VIN/PIN is no longer available.
Does this service require the presence of the car or can it be done with the ECM alone? Do keys need to be re-registered? The car starts fine currently.
I'm driving a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 83,000 miles on it.
Had it in the shop (dealer) a couple of weeks back for some work on the transmission. While there, I had the dealer perform the work for Recall 090 (corrosion of rear trailing arm). Since that time, there has been a clicking noise coming from what I believe to be the right rear wheel (it is definitely coming from the right [passenger] side). The noise sounds like metal rubbing up against metal, for lack of a better description. The noise is directly correlated to wheel rotation... the faster I drive the vehicle, the more frequently it occurs; the slower I drive, the less frequently it occurs.
The noise is very noticeable, and I am certain that it did not exist prior to my latest visit to the dealer. I am considering taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic this time, as the dealer repeatedly tells me that they aren't to blame, or I end up leaving the dealership with more problems than I arrived with.
My daughter asked me to look at & listen to a horrible grinding noise coming from the upper right area of her Santa Fe's rear hatch. There was a plastic grinding noise coming from THIS:
It's the lock actuator for the rear hatch.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
Sometimes it makes that horrible plastic grinding noise.
I am the proud owner of a 2010 AWD Santa Fe with 1,600 miles. Over the weekend, I noticed a weird "humming" noise coming from somewhere in the vehicle (it sounds like possibly from the passenger side and from the interior of the vehicle). I only hear the noise when I accelerate. When I brake, the noise stops, and then picks up again when I hit the gas pedal.
View 46 Replies2004 Santa Fe, 2.7 L V6. The oil was changed approx 5-7k miles ago (not really sure as I bought it from someone else) and I just changed it today. There's a new knocking noise in the engine. I used normal castrol GTX oil, 5w-30.
I drove it about 20 miles and the noise is still being made, so it's not a circulation problem.
2003 Santa Fe with the 2.7l v6. It started making ticking noises from the engine bay about a year ago it sounds almost like when you take a spark plug out of the socket while engine is running (that’s the best way I can describe it).
It used to only do it when it was cold out and first started. Then it started doing it while at idle as well. Now it does it all the time no matter idle, or how warm the engine is or how warm it is outside. It getting so loud it sounds like I have a diesel engine.
The check engine light came on and was on a for a while before I could find the issue. The issue that caused the CEl to come on was a solenoid and an Air intake temp sensor. I fixed those but that had no effect on the noise. I have replaced all the valve gaskets, plugs, wires, pcv valve air filter. Still had no effect.
My wife took it to a mechanic who I believe ripped us off, and did no work but charged her for it. They did a timing belt and lower valve gasket job 1500$. There was no sticker to prove new timing belt, no new water pump, thermostat, and then they said it needed a new ECU (200$) which they ordered it and it had nothing to do with the ecu. They should have eaten the cost once they put it in and found it wasn’t that, but they did not!!! She has no idea about cars and paid them. but don’t get me started on that I will never return to that shop, and am thinking of taking them to small claims court dishonest thieves who took advantage of her not knowing about cars (I was out of state for work, and was out of cell phone range so she couldn’t have asked me).
It has a hard time going up steep inclines and you have to either gun it before the incline or it is very hard to make it up you can put the peddle to the floor and it only slowly climes but the engine rpms almost go to redline 5k rpms. Whenever I go to put gas in it clicks the pump off nonstop and to fill the tank you literally have to find a sweet spot or stand there and constantly hold it in when it clicks and clicks and clicks. I have changed the oil to synthetic, and I am using only OEM oil filters from the dealer ship. I changed the idler pulley, but that did not work. I changed the Oil and filter, but that did not work either.
I have had multiple people look at it and some of the answers they have said were…. “Noisy lifters”, “ticking idler pulley”, “Sticky timing chain idler”, “Change the oil and switch to oem filter”, “Its defiantly “something wrong in the fuel system”. And the best one… “I don’t know it sounds like it’s not long for this world”.
So now I am trying to decide the next step. I don’t like driving it around to much as I am worried if it is serous it may be something that ends up running the engine, but it’s the only vehicle available at the moment. I feel like hitting my head on the dash board I don’t know what to do anymore.
Link to photobucket video of noise : [URL] .....
We bought our 2010 RX last December--dead of winter--and never noticed this until this week, when the temps are approaching summer, like upper 80s.
The AC (and heater) fan makes a loud droning noise (low frequency, but quite loud) when the "auto" setting turns the fan to one of the two highest settings to cool the car down. Never noticed this until now because the fan never ran at the higher settings in the winter (parked in a heated garage). It makes no difference which vent setting is used, the loud drone from the fan is the same as long as it is running at the higher speeds.
Also, I'm NOT talking about the fans in the seats. This is the big fan behind the dash. Manually decreasing the fan speed reduces the drone, which becomes almost inaudible at lower fan speeds.
My 1996 Ford Explorer makes this dreadful droning noise - but only when the outside temperature is above 78 degrees and the engine is warm. This is summer 3 and it seems to get louder and louder each year. The doing is loud. I am embarrassed in parking lots. It does not matter if a/c is on, or the fan. The noise goes away with throttle. Which may mean the engine vacuum is involved in the noise.
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