Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 2.7L V6 Downshifts Frequently While Driving
Jul 29, 2012
My Santa Fe 2004 V6 2.7L 97K recently downshifts and revs up while I'm driving. It happened about a week ago once or twice. I thought I was stepping on the gas too aggressively. But last 2-3 days it came back and more frequently to a point that I'm afraid to take it to the highway.
I checked the transmission oil, it looks pink and full. What problem am I potentially looking at? Would it be cheap to fix? Do Hyundai dealers cover it under the 10-year/100K mile warranty thing?
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I have a 2005 Sante Fe 2.7 4WD with 168K miles. Last week I'm driving at 45 mph with cruise control on and it just downshifted to 3rd and then back to 4th in about 3 seconds.
It did this on the highway at 55 as well. I used the manual shift option and it works perfectly. It still shifts smoothly in auto mode but around every 5 minutes or so it will downshift and back again.
Here's what I know.
1. Using automatic mode in Drive it shifts smoothly from a stop to speed but then downshifts and back occasionally. It does this with Cruise Control on and off.
2. Using the manual mode and shifting on my own works perfectly. Even when the cruise control is on it doesn't skip or downshift.
What it could be?
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I just bought a 2001 elantra. The car frequently will jerk or stutter while driving like the gas is bad or it is starved for something. When the stutter problem happens while driving the check engine light flashes but does not stay on. It usually only stutter 1 time but has as much as 3. The other day when I was in a drive thru waiting to order the car kinda sputtered during an idle then shut off the check engine light did not flash at this time. It restarted fine after that.
I pulled the codes and read them and I have 2. I am not sure if they are related to this problem. They were U0D00 and P0705. For the P0705 I cleaned the terminal but did not pull the negative on the battery the reset the computer. I reset the codes and the problem still is happening but no new codes are present. The code P0705 has not returned since.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later. Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
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I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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If you drive less than 6000 or maybe even less than 3000 miles a year, how often should one change the oil on the car? Or don't bother with time interval but mileage as recommended for the make and model? I'm not sure there's a recommendation for time on the make & model, I'll check sometime.
Car in question is a Hyundai Accent 2009
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I bought my car last May and never noticed the radiator fans running, but over the past couple of months they've been coming on (or at least running at a higher speed) pretty much every time I take it for a longer drive. They appear to come on only when I'm idling and turn off when I start moving again. The temperature gauge is steady at just below halfway. I'm certain this didn't happen previously, or if it did the fans were at a low enough speed that I didn't hear them. In my inexperience I would have thought they'd be less likely to run in the winter, and we've been having continuously cold weather (<30 C).
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Car is a 2001 Accent 1.6L 4 door automatic with about 130,000 miles on it.
Transmission shifts correctly into reverse, drive, neutral as well as manually shifting into 2nd and 1st. When in drive I will accelerate perfectly through 1st gear, shifts smoothly into 2nd gear then the problem arises. The car will shift ok into 3rd, but if I let off the gas to coast to a light or a corner, etc, the transmission physically downshifts or locks up in 3rd (like driving a stick, ie the car has drag like the converter is locked instead of freely coasting). It feels like 3rd gear but could be 2nd. When I go to accelerate again without coming to a stop the car has this same feeling of drag with no power and speeds up very slowly (almost like i am pulling something behind the car or am in a gear that is too high). If I give it enough gas to force a downshift it really slams that downshift. While the car accelerates through the rpm range after this downshift it will rev past the normal up-shift rpm until it finally slams into the higher gear. Or if i hold the gas steady at the higher rpm the car will suddenly slam into the higher gear. after all of this nonsense the car drives perfect through to OD. The problem is much worse going uphill and is consistent every time it is driven.
Also, sometimes the car would shake and vibrate when hitting the gas during this "drag feeling" until i let go and did it again. This is pretty random compared to the main problem but also seems to happen while the car is in 2nd or 3rd. This has been happening for about 5 months now and as far as i know was sudden. And on another note it suddenly was shifting fine the other day while driving it. I haven't driven it since then but this completely stumped me, as most problems will do when they magically disappear.
There is no check engine light, OD works fine and the car does not go into the safety mode where it will shift to 3rd gear on the highway. It's city driving that is the real headache (2nd and 3rd gear difficulties). Would the pulse generators cause this? bad TCM? i haven't scanned anything yet but will be within the next few days(at pep boys or similar) as well as ohming out pga and pgb. i have found resistance readings for pgb but nothing for pga, what should pga read? fluid is also within acceptable amount and color.
My initial thoughts were dirty or stuck solenoids/valves in the valve body and i was going to do a filter and fluid change with a quick valve body cleaning and check. But after researching on here I am starting to think it may be electrical. The only reason I put my scenario up is because it seems that everybody else who is having a similar problem is also having the "no reverse" or "shifting into 3rd on the highway" problems while i am not. On a random note, for my own piece of mind, how do the pulse generators work? Are they just reading ticks on a gear cog in the tranny or something? fluid flow?
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2003 Santa Fe GLS 3.5l with 170k.
Been working OK up until about 2 months ago when I would notice a brief hesitation every once in a great while when driving. It became hard to start - would crank well but just took about 5 seconds to finally start. Recently, I was on the highway and it jerked at about 65mph but did not cut off. Once when I was at a traffic light, it shut off completely but started right back up again. I was convinced that it was a crank or cam position sensor as I had dealt with a similar issue with another car years ago. It also seems to start right away when the temps are in the single digits - when they get higher than 25 or so, hard to start again.
I bought a new crankshaft position sensor because all the posts I've read point to that being the problem given the symptoms. I haven't installed it yet - still looking into this and wondering where it is! I'm thinking that it might be more fuel-related now though because after I started my car after work yesterday (it went all day without being started) it was hard to start but this time it was if I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. It kind of sputtered until I gave it the gas enough where it would settle out. Fuel pressure regulator? I hadn't thought it would be fuel-related (pump, pressure regulator) because 99% of the time, the car works just fine.
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What could it be? Replace front brakes. Then they said it was front axels, replaced them. Making same noise... grinding and feels like you are hitting brakes when you are not. Sounds like metal on metal. What else can it be? 01 sante fe 180,000 miles v6 awd. It was doing it in reverse but after all of this now just in drive at slow speeds.
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3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
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So I go on vacation, and as we're driving down, the CEL comes on with p1166 pd1166. Get home the code still pops up. A month later small oil leak is detected. Clean the throttle body intake, fuel and exhaust systems. Oil leak gets worse, turns out the crank shaft seal has failed. Shop cleans out the oil, and replaces the timing belt. Clears the code and the CEL stays off for 5 days. I clear the code and Its good for days. Get it up over 50 and the CEL pops on. So today go for a trip mostly highway driving. I go over 125 miles with out the CEL coming on. Check it and the reader reports pd1166. Clear it. Driving back 4 miles and the CEL comes on. 2 codes p1166 and pd1166.
What are the time parameters for logging a pd1166 and the p1166. No engine issues, no performance issues. Gas mileage is 17-19mpg.
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Driving down the road, no warning lights on, everything working fine, no stalling or any indication of a problem, car just shuts off. I think hmmm, put it in neutral and try to start, nothing, notta, zip ... engine not even attempting to turn over. Removed the battery took it to store had it checked twice shows to be good 100%.
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Sante Fe 2.7L v6 AWD. Lately I've been noticing it more and more but when the car is driven for a good amount of time we hear a noise. I'd say maybe an hour or so (I've never measured it though) the car makes a whining noise when trying to turn the wheel or even accelerating. I feel some resistance in the wheel when it happens too but majority of the noise comes from turning the wheel. Also when this happens the car seems to want to pull to the right, i can feel the wheel starting to pull. If I let the car rest and cool down for like 20 minutes or so it will go away but then slowly come back. From what Ive been reading I think I can narrow this down to a power steering fluid issue, either its low, leaking or the screen in the bottle is clogged. I don't see any leaks, nothing pouring out the bottom of the car either.
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I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
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My daughter was driving our 3.5L Santa Fe on the highway when it decelerated. Stepping on gas and no acceleration. She said she got a CEL and oil light. She was able to pull over to the side of highway and turned ignition off and on and she was able to drive off the highway and called me. She was about 120 miles from home. She said the cel light and check oil light were now off and I had here check the oil and it was at full.
I had her drive in the right hand lane without going over 60 and she made it home no problem. I took it out for a drive and no issues. Do you think this is a crankshaft position sensor problem?
mileage is 170k - timing belt was replaced at 130k.
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I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
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I have an 02 Santa Fe and last night while driving the fan would not turn off. It also started switching speed by itself.
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2001 2.4 L AWD Manual Transmission.
Live data readings from vehicle continuously indicates "open loop- driving" for the Fuel System Status (Fuel System 1) . During idle and on open high way driving as 120 km for 10 minutes. I use an ELM327 diagnostic device with ScanMaster-EL 2.2 software.
After establishing this initially I disconnected the battery to do a complete ECU reset. I do not get error codes.
O2 Sensor1 Bank1 constantly reported as 1.275 V and sensor 2 as 0.02 V. I believe however the constant readings are as as a result of being in open loop.
No error codes reported.
The software report OBD1 ability on the diagnostic link.
During driving I got the following readings:
Fuel System 1: open loop-driving
Fuel System 2: not supported.
Calculated load: 6.27 to 83.14, avg 40.6
Fuel trims: 0
RPM: 1008 to 3988, avg 2407
Speed (km/h): 0 to 122, avg 77.66.
Timing Advance #1 degrees: 7 to 44 degrees, avg 22.42
Intake Air Temp (degrees C). 19 to 24
Air Flow Rate - (g/s): 3.18 to 69.27, avg 25.46
The software reports that the O2 Sensor bank 2 is not supported. I am not certain whether I should trust the software. In South Africa cats are not mandatory, hence is it possible explanation.
2) Is it possible to send a command on OBD to force closed loop?
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