Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Engine Hesitation After Driving For 15 - 20 Minutes And Poor MPG
May 9, 2016
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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My wife's car is throwing at p0306 code. I have changed the park plugs and the check engine lights comes on after 5-10 minute of driving and gives the same code. Can I move the spark plug wire to another ignition coil bank to test the coil? The picture shows the current plug locations on the ignition pack. Is there any certain order they need to be in or can I just swap 6 and 5 since they are the closest together?
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I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
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2003 Santa Fe GLS 3.5l with 170k.
Been working OK up until about 2 months ago when I would notice a brief hesitation every once in a great while when driving. It became hard to start - would crank well but just took about 5 seconds to finally start. Recently, I was on the highway and it jerked at about 65mph but did not cut off. Once when I was at a traffic light, it shut off completely but started right back up again. I was convinced that it was a crank or cam position sensor as I had dealt with a similar issue with another car years ago. It also seems to start right away when the temps are in the single digits - when they get higher than 25 or so, hard to start again.
I bought a new crankshaft position sensor because all the posts I've read point to that being the problem given the symptoms. I haven't installed it yet - still looking into this and wondering where it is! I'm thinking that it might be more fuel-related now though because after I started my car after work yesterday (it went all day without being started) it was hard to start but this time it was if I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. It kind of sputtered until I gave it the gas enough where it would settle out. Fuel pressure regulator? I hadn't thought it would be fuel-related (pump, pressure regulator) because 99% of the time, the car works just fine.
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I just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
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I just picked up a 2004 Sante Fe with 150K for my daughter. "she loves it" I love to work on cars so didn't mind the mileage. I have shifting issues so I replaced the input/output sensors, when I started driving it it was back to what seemed normal with a little hesitation between shifts, now it's back to lunging while in 3 or 4th gear. Strangely to me the shiftronic works great without issues.
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This had occurred twice thus far in the past 6 months.
2004 Santa Fe 3.8L Automatic:
I had stopped the car at a store several months back, got back in the car after about an hour and I go to turn the key and the motor will not crank at all. Battery was fine, lights all worked, etc. After about ten minutes of fiddling with the shift it finally cranked and started without issue. Tonight I had stopped, topped off the tank (mistake I am sure) and tried to leave the gas station, again, no crank (and I forgot my cell phone at home!).
After about 15 minutes of fiddling with the shifter thinking a lock switch issue it again finally cranked over and started right up! Sounds like a couple of isolated incidents, however what may be the causes?
The first time I don't recall if I had gotten fuel or not. I did travel a ways afterward if I indeed had. This time I could not get it to crank right at the pumps.
Could this indeed be the purge valve issue I have heard about on these causing it not to even crank?
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2002 Santa fe 2.7l v6 trouble code p1529 p0121 p0129 p0740...
I'm having erratic shifting problems and poor gas millage. The issue began approx 2 weeks ago and is always present. The issue is hard shifting between all the gears, jerking, high tac revving , difficulty shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throttle at times unresponsive, and like i stated earlier poor gas mileage.
This past weekend I replaced the TPS, but the TPS codes are still present. One concern I have with the replacement is that I din't detach the negative cable, which I've recently learned should be done. So I'm not sure if by neglecting to remove the battery cable I may have damaged the new TPS.
Is it true that the negative battery cable should be removed with TPS replacement?
I've also read that a faulty TCM can cause these types of symptoms as well and one resolution may be to reset the TCM by removing both battery cables.
Any information on resetting the TCM? Also, in case I decide to replace the TCM, where the module is located ?
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I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
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04 Kia Optima (116,000miles) will drive ok for 20 min. or so (last time 10 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, turn a corner, or drive on hills (basically any condition) and it suddenly acts up after a small jerk (engine light comes and goes and I cannot get anyone to read codes correctly). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops if it gets really bad and it wont come down from above 40mph unless I break and feels like it wants to stall when trying to accelerate again after stops and difficult to sometimes get past 30/40mph, Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
I have had the PO335Crank shaft position sensor replaced three times, (last time by dealer) New battery, new spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well. Every time I take it in (6 or 7 times, different places), they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" .... I am curious about broken flexpipe..
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3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
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I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
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Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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My Santa Fe 2004 V6 2.7L 97K recently downshifts and revs up while I'm driving. It happened about a week ago once or twice. I thought I was stepping on the gas too aggressively. But last 2-3 days it came back and more frequently to a point that I'm afraid to take it to the highway.
I checked the transmission oil, it looks pink and full. What problem am I potentially looking at? Would it be cheap to fix? Do Hyundai dealers cover it under the 10-year/100K mile warranty thing?
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It'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
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I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
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Santa Fe - 2004 - 2.7 liter automatic fwd.
I am experiencing an occasional jerking or hesitation while sitting stopped at lights and it also has a tendency to do the same as I begin to move from a stop at times. It almost seems like the transmission slipping or something but likely more engine related I think as I am at a stop. I have felt this slightly while at speed as well but not that often, at least not yet. It also seems more noticeable as the weather get warmer as was very noticeable late last summer and did not present itself again until spring.
Also-I have read that some threads re stalling issues(not exactly what I have) that can be related to the crankshaft position sensor and also read somewhere a while ago about an issue re the ecm needing reprogramming but have not found that recently.
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Last night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
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I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
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07 That has 138K miles. The noise starts around 10 minutes of driving. Th engine sounds like a diesel engine. The noise has lasted 5 to 10 minutes. Then shut it off and it won't return til the next morning...Same thing. THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO OCCUR on start-up. It has to run for about 10 minutes (moving) or so. Changed out the water pump. The noise is coming from near or behind the water pump.
My mechanic is stumped but he pretty much thinks it's coming from behind the water pump. That leads me to believe it's the timing chains/tensioner's etc. But the time it starts up is throwing me off. When it is cold I think I can hear a little clacking that shuts off quickly after oil pressure gets going but it's not really the same sound that were are hearing when moving and the crazy sound starts and it is LOUD!
We were thinking it was the timing belt tensioner however, it is not behaving like it should.
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