I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
View 1 RepliesBackground: 2004 Phaeton, 38k miles, no major/minor mechanical issues -- until now. Issue is this. The drain lines in the trunk area of the car became clogged one dark and dreary night. Water overflowed -- somehow -- onto the starter circuits.
Whilst driving to the office the "IGNITION LOCK WARNING" indicator came on. When I arrived at the office and shut off the engine, the car became completely immobilized (imagine several hisses and four distinct thunks) and the key became stuck in the ignition.
The ignition circuit was replaced and drains cleaned out with 'nipples' removed to ensure no more blockages. HOWEVER, I have now been told the starter is bad.
I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
My 2010 Santa Fe has an intermittent all window condensation problem, regardless whether the car has been idle overnight or whilst driving it has occurred on numerous occasions. In one case in the morning I had to use a towel to dry the inside windows. I have tried leaving the heater / AC on various settings but it still occurs. I have noticed that the door windows when I open / close them the seals do not touch the glass. In the short term the AC and fast windscreen/rear window buttons do clear the moisture but it does re-occur especially whilst driving...
View 6 RepliesAll the service lights will blink and flash whilst driving. After turning the car off and restarting the radio and clock all reset and the dash lights are gone. The car starts right up with no problem. I checked fuses and none are blown. What may be causing this? It is a 2009 Santa Fe 2.7. It has approx. 95,000 miles. The battery is a couple of years old.
View 7 RepliesJust replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7L at 157k miles due to the engine cutting out for seemingly no reason when I reached a stoplight, no codes were recorded though. Unfortunately, the frequency of cut out started to increase in recent years, to the point where it died on our local beltway in traffic at speed - too dangerous. The CPS on the 2.7L is accessible from under the front of the car; it's positioned on the engine just over the starter (front face of engine) and a closer to the transmission side of the engine. I've seen threads here where folks have replaced the CPS without removing the starter, but in my case I removed it because I just couldn't reach above and over the starter to remove the single bolt holding the CPS.
Removing the starter is easy enough, just two bolts holding the starter body and one bolt connecting the battery cable plus a couple of smaller wires. Be careful enough to clean around the CPS first before removal. When I removed the CPS I was surprised to find what you see in the attached close up photo of the old and new CPS's - the insulation around each of the three individual wires entering the CPS body from the connector was badly frayed, just crumbled off to the touch.
Lots of heat and road dirt over time degraded that wiring to the point that all three wires were bare and touching each other intermittently and shorting out the CPS signal to the ECM: No CPS reference signal means the engine will cut out until it gets restarted. Anyway, check out the photo and note the red circle I annotated to show wiring damage. The new part shown with the old for comparison in photo was only $30 at Advance Auto Parts, might be one of those sensors worth replacing to prevent trouble as the vehicle ages.
I have a 2005 prius with navigation, smart key, hid lights; not sure what the package is called. Today while driving I heard two short beeps that I have never heard before. At first, I thought it was my Ipod or cell phone. I turned off the radio, turned off the climate control and drove until I heard it again. Two barely audible beeps; the second one about 1 second behind the first. I put the car into the diagnosis mode via the nav screen, ran a test and all checked out ok with the exception of the audio h/u has a yellow box with the words "chek" in it. When I press the yellow box it doesn't show any error codes. I'm not too worried about it but it just started happening today.
View 6 RepliesI started my car today and these lights came on and stayed on battery light parking brake / brake level warning light and the fuel warning light its a santa 2.0 fe 2004 ... What it could be
View 2 RepliesI own a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L AWD and recently when ever I drive at a highway speed 65mph or greater the ABS and Traction lights come on as well as the AWD indicator which lights up green and blinks. When this happens I feel a slight shudder in the drive line and I no longer have AWD, ABS or Traction control functioning. This condition continues until I stop and turn off and re-start the truck at which time everything is back to normal. It does not happen around town and I have had my local garage check for stored codes in the computer and there are none listed. We have also inspected the drive line on a lift and everything looks dry and fine. Other than that this truck runs and drives great.
View 3 Replies2004 GTI VR6 24V Manual trans. My son's GTI has an intermittent problem that I think will be hard to pinpoint because it is intermittent. I will hopefully have more info this afternoon. Three time now after driving about 20 miles the car will cut off. Usually while slowing down to a stop or to make a turn. So far it has run great at highway speeds.
It has some random symptoms. I drove it to work and it happened to me. The first time I had slowed to about 20 to make a turn and it cut off. I made the turn and let out the clutch and it bump started and I made it to my work parking lot. While turning into the lot it cut off again so I coasted into a parking spot. This part has me puzzled it would not crank the starter. I moved the gear selector to every gear and nothing. I put it in reverse and the starter would crank but would not start.
Came back about an hour later and it started fine and acted like nothing wrong. Drove it home and again about 20 miles and it cut off again. This time it would crank in all gears but would not start. This time the EPC light came on. Left the car and came back later that night and it started fine, EPC light off and drove the last two mile home no problem. I am borrowing a friend from work computer with the VAGCOM software and hopefully will have more info.
My Santa Fe 2004 V6 2.7L 97K recently downshifts and revs up while I'm driving. It happened about a week ago once or twice. I thought I was stepping on the gas too aggressively. But last 2-3 days it came back and more frequently to a point that I'm afraid to take it to the highway.
I checked the transmission oil, it looks pink and full. What problem am I potentially looking at? Would it be cheap to fix? Do Hyundai dealers cover it under the 10-year/100K mile warranty thing?
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
I have a 2002 Passat 2.0L petrol (130bhp AZM Engine), with single DIS Ignition coil pack. The engine warning light came on with a misfire whilst doing 40mph (no previous warning or indications of potential problems), which is present at all engine speeds. I had the code read, indicating a misfire on cylinder three. I have completed the following checks:
1) Cleared the codes and restarted engine.
2) Replaced the spark plugs with new ones.
3) Old spark plugs were in good condition with no oil, no deposits and the electrodes in good condition.
4) Checked HT lead condition and found no corrosion, a tight fitting cap and no damage to cable.
5) Earthed the HT lead and have strong spark when engine turns over.
6) Checked the injector electrical connections with a bulb tester and all is fine.
7) Removed the fuel rail and extracted cylinder 3 injector.
8) Performed a visual inspection of injector with all looking good and no blockages at the jets.
9) Tested the injector on the bench using a 12V battery to ensure it opens and closes correctly.
10) Replaced the injector in the rail and turned the engine over to check for blockages, with all injectors operating.
11) Swapped cylinder 3 and 4 injectors (misfire still on cylinder 3, no change)
12) Inspected fuel and air connections and ensured no leaks.
13) Checked the engine oil condition with no evidence of water contamination (head gasket).
I bought my daughter a Tiguan late last year, new 2012 model and since she has had it she has been having a serious problem. Whilst driving it randomly just shuts off and you have to restart it. AS you can expect this is extremely dangerous! Have had it back to the dealer now on two occasions and they cant find anything wrong, nor is their any error codes produced in the ECU.
View 24 RepliesI've bought a used prius v ,the mileage is now 72k and as of monday (2 days ago) the maintenance reqd light came on intermittently when I start the car. So, I checked and saw that this meant it was due for a service, no big deal.
I don't know if it's linked but Monday I drove about 360 miles and then last night (Tuesday) I noticed my battery drained quickly on a 7 mile trip , it went down to 2 bars (they became blue on the car display) and took forever to go back up. Then same thing this afternoon but funnily enough, not this morning.
We were on a long drive on the motorway and suddenly noticed that the dashboard lights went out. The clock and GPS map were dark. They came back on but would intermittently go off. The dealer will be checking this for us (it is a new 450h, we have now 3000 miles on it; it is 9 months old. Perhaps a loose connection ? (We love this car but still not familiar with all of the electronics!)...
View 3 Replies2000 passat GLX, tip, 2.8L v6... new brake pads and freshly turned rotors, but both the "ABS" light and the "BRAKE" lights come on intermittently whilst driving. It doesn't happen every time it's driven, just maybe 1/3-1/2 of the time, and it is only on for a bit before it turns off, but it will usually turn on again later for a short stint as well.
View 3 RepliesSo leaving work yesterday I noticed my coolant light was on. I checked the coolant level and it was like under an inch below the min level.
I decided to try to drive it a few miles to the dealership for coolant, keeping an eye on the temperature. When taking the exit to get to the dealership the car shut off and the battery light came on. I started it back up and it ran fine the remaining 50 feet until I got to the dealer. I parked it in the service lane and checked the coolant again and it I had almost no coolant in the resevior. I'm almost sure I need a waterpump, which was my first assumption the second I started the car. What I'm wondering is why the car shut off while driving. The engine temperature didn't change the whole way there but I'm wondering if it could be that the car thought it could soon over heat, so it cut the power, or if it could be something else.
The car is a stage 2 2013 GTI with 24k miles.
TLDR~ Can a mk6 gti that is low on coolant shut itself off the protect itself from overheating? Could coolant have leaked onto something to make it shut off? Or do you think it would be for another reason?
Recently I changed the spark plug and I made a mistake crossing the spark plug wires. here I noticed that the check engine warning don't turn on.
Also I had other problem with idle air valve and also the check engine warning don't turn on.
The light is working fine because when I acct the key it is turning on. The problem is detecting a fail it don't turning on.
Looking for some info about the 4wd system.
My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 and several times i've seen the 4wd warning light start flashing. It happens right when i start up the engine, however if I turn the engine off and on again, the light will be off the next time it starts up.
I'm just trying to figure out what kind of problems this warning light would indicate, in case it stays on sometime. I like to plan ahead my car repairs and know what's going on with it. The car has like 190K + miles so it's getting there.
Also I try to avoid the dealer, so I was also wondering if a typical scan tool that most mechanics have could read the codes, or if would need to be done by Hyundai specifically.
I have an automatic 1994 Nissan Bluebird which I think is equivalent to the Nissan Altima in the US.
My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.
When it does jerk I can hear a noise that sounds faintly like a can of coke being opened (quick sharp pressure release), and it seems like something (possibly a belt) is losing traction/slipping and quickly regaining its grip. My first suspicion was the drive belt or one of the other belts slipping or something like that. Other possibilities I suspect are, from looking through the Hayne's manual:
-Something to do with the transmission (I checked the transmission fluid and it seems fine, very light brown but mostly transparent)
-Fuel filter clogged or fuel line problems (1.5 years ago the car wouldn't start, and a mechanic had to manually inject fuel through the injection nozzles. The fuel was near empty however)
-Spark plugs gap wrong or damaged
-Distributor components damaged (the distributor and alternator were changed last year and swapped in with 2nd hand parts, also the mechanic was very shifty and I think he hacked it into my car without too much care for good wiring, fittings, etc).
Also, I took the car to a mechanic last week and he thought it was the spark plugs, but I think the problem may be more serious than that. He also wanted to flush the transmission fluid but I think I will give this a miss since I checked the fluid and it seems fine, plus I heard flushing the fluid in an old car may have negative effects.