Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Engine Cutting Out For No Reason When Reached A Stoplight
May 19, 2014
Just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) on my 2003 Santa Fe 2.7L at 157k miles due to the engine cutting out for seemingly no reason when I reached a stoplight, no codes were recorded though. Unfortunately, the frequency of cut out started to increase in recent years, to the point where it died on our local beltway in traffic at speed - too dangerous. The CPS on the 2.7L is accessible from under the front of the car; it's positioned on the engine just over the starter (front face of engine) and a closer to the transmission side of the engine. I've seen threads here where folks have replaced the CPS without removing the starter, but in my case I removed it because I just couldn't reach above and over the starter to remove the single bolt holding the CPS.
Removing the starter is easy enough, just two bolts holding the starter body and one bolt connecting the battery cable plus a couple of smaller wires. Be careful enough to clean around the CPS first before removal. When I removed the CPS I was surprised to find what you see in the attached close up photo of the old and new CPS's - the insulation around each of the three individual wires entering the CPS body from the connector was badly frayed, just crumbled off to the touch.
Lots of heat and road dirt over time degraded that wiring to the point that all three wires were bare and touching each other intermittently and shorting out the CPS signal to the ECM: No CPS reference signal means the engine will cut out until it gets restarted. Anyway, check out the photo and note the red circle I annotated to show wiring damage. The new part shown with the old for comparison in photo was only $30 at Advance Auto Parts, might be one of those sensors worth replacing to prevent trouble as the vehicle ages.
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I drive a 2005 2.00 diesel Santa Fe which has developed problem when driving. The engine stops suddenly with no reason no Management info light appears i have the car checked and there are no fault codes present. Some time the burglar alarm lights comes on after the car stops it can take up to 15 mins to restart. This fault can happen 3 times a day and happens more often when driving at low speeds.
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I have a 2003 Sante Fe, 245,000 miles mostly problem free... been a good vehicle! About 3 months ago the ABS would kick on for no reason, tracked it down to a broken ABS ring. Disconnected the ABS by pulling the fuse until I could save up for the new axles. Two weeks ago as I was pulling into my driveway there was aloud bang and the pedal went to the floor. Come to find out the passengers side brake pad broke and the metal backer actually came out of the car. Luckily, I was home when this happened. Traced this back to a sticking passenger caliper, not the piston but the pins, pulled out and cleaned and lubricated the pins, installed new brakes and the new axles with ABS rings (not happy to toss out good axles for the ring.
Anyway, brakes were great for 3 or 4 weeks then out of the blue the brake light came on. Brakes felt normal, fluid level full, no leaks and parking brake is disengaged.
Today my girlfriend was driving it and she said heard a weird metal sound and then the petal went to the floor, it would stop but she had to really push hard... I should also mention that the rear brake lines were replaced several months ago and nothing is leaking.
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I have a 2005 2.0 litre petrol Santa Fe. I recently had it serviced and after this I started to have problems with it suddenly cutting out or stalling momentarily while driving. This happens randomly, sometimes at slow and other times at high speeds, often when accelerating but a couple of times in cruise. It only lasts a second or two and picks up immediately but can sometimes happen a few times in succession. It never happened before the service. The orange check light with the exhaust icon (Malfunction indicator Light?) comes on sometimes but I haven't noticed it all the time. This problem is getting worse, more frequent. I pushed the car a bit today in 4th gear up to about 3500 rpm and it happened quite badly, a few jerks in quick succession with the light coming on then back to normal for the rest of the trip.
I brought it back to the garage who did the service (not a main dealer, nor my usual mechanic) and they ran full diagnostics on it a couple of times. Nothing showed up, no error codes and nothing logged on the car's computer. They tested the emissions and found them to be perfect. They didn't change the fuel filter because it seems to be built into the petrol pump but did put something in the system that is supposed to clear out any deposits or whatever. Not sure what it's called but some sort of fuel additive. That was why I drove it hard today. They suggested doing that to try and clear out the system. Doesn't seem to have worked.
The bottom line is they don't know what's causing this so I'll have to take it to my own mechanic or else the main dealer. I'm wondering what could be the problem. From searching the forum it looks like the symptoms could be consistent with a failing CPS, an oxygen or throttle position sensor or a faulty ignition relay. I also think it could be to do with a clogged fuel filter, dirty petrol or perhaps water in the fuel tank; we've had tons of rain lately and the car is kept outside! Given it started happening after the service I wonder if they could have fitted something wrongly, used a faulty part, maybe a plug, or left something loose/disconnected. They have however gone through it thoroughly to try and find the fault so I imagine they would have turned up something like that.
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I have a 2004 2.0 crtd gsi Santa fe 104k recently started cutting out whilst driving, no warning , no loss of power just cuts out, restarts after a few seconds, can do it 4 or 5 times within a couple of miles and then will go miles without any problem.
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 that has ABS and Traction Control. A problem has developed and not sure where to look for a fix. At random times the ABS seems to actuate itself for no apparent reason. It happens pulling into parking spaces, turning the wheel sharp in general at low speeds. I have even had it happen at low speed while on the gas. At various times the ABS and TCS lights come on and stay on for periods of time. I have checked the brakes themselves, but I feel the problem is in the ABS/TCS system. No obvious things wrong with the speed sensors themselves.
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Just got my truck back (450) from rebuild on tranny. Hooked up my new obd link mx , and was out running the truck for a while. Started running it pretty hard to see what the gauges would do. Noticed the engine coolant was getting up pretty high, usually around 240-250, and then hit 270!!! My temp gauge on the truck wasn't budging , just stayed between hot and cold. Is this normal?? Seemed pretty hot to me but if i just took it easy on the throttle it would average around 230. If i stop and idle it quickly goes down to 206. Look at oil temp and tranny temp also engine coolant temp is bottom middle.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
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I've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
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We have a 2007 Santa Fe with 78,000 miles.
It's recently developed an issue where it has cut off on two different occasions within the past 2 weeks.
My wife said both times happened as she was slowing down and it felt like she was losing power. The vehicle cut off and then cranked right back up.
I've taken it to my personal mechanic as well as the dealership for diagnostic tests and neither were able to replicate the issue or find the problem.
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car revs real high sometimes, other times just won't idle for long with out dying. getting harder to restart after it dies.have changed fuel sensors, oxygen sensors, throttle sensor,mass /map sensor. Whats going on with my car!
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My one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
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I'm at 3,200 miles on my 2010 Santa Fe and all is going well except for the fact that every now and again, the interior windows fog up. And I'm not talking about regular fog...this stuff has earned the nickname of ninja fog because it comes out of nowhere and it's impossible to get rid of. It's only happened twice but it doesn't indicate a fault of the automatic climate control. The first time was my fault. I was behind an old Thunderbird and hit the recirculate button to get the stink out. I passed the 'Bird but forgot to turn it back to fresh. The fog was so heavy that it took running the defrost on full blast for [b]15 MINUTES to clear it.
It happened again tonight but came totally unprovoked. I keep the system on automatic and set between 70 and 74 F and tonight I had it set on Auto at 72 when it happened. I was sitting at a red light and all of a sudden, POOF! There it was. Came literally out of nowhere and after running the defrost on high for the rest of the drive home, even the passenger front window was barely half-clear. I noticed the outside temperature gauge went from 44 to 41 - very quickly so I'm wondering if a quick external temperature loss causes the relatively warm inside of the glass to fog up.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited and recently the main AC blower has been cutting on and off for long periods of time. The rear blower has not had any issues and has always worked. The main blower cuts off randomly and stays off until I tap under the glove box and then it normally kicks back on. Recently that has stopped working and I need to figure out what the problem is. Having the AC on or off does not effect this issue.
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I recently bought the Santa Fe Sport 2017 model. The alarm just keeps going off for no apparent reason. It seems like any wind or a car driving on a street will set it off. Is there a place where the alarm sensitivity can be adjusted?
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1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
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I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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I just got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4. Speedometer started cutting in and out. Just the speedo needle cuts in and is accurate for a long while then jumps up 10mph then goes back to accurate speed then cuts out and needle goes to zero for a bit then comes back on to accurate speed.
Just the speedo needle is the problem the trip meter and odometer and all other gauges on the cluster works just fine. Do I need a new cluster? Wouldn't be a speed sensor? Speed sensor would just cut off and would affect the odometer too wouldn't it?
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Yesterday when I started up the engine it cut out and died on me a number of times. The engine would start but it would not hold the idle for more than about 10 seconds, then it would quickly drop down to about 500rpm and die. It felt like it was starved for fuel. I pressed on the accelerator to try and give it more gas, but it was a bit unresponsive. Car did this for about 5 or 6 times and then on the last time I was able to give it gas and keep the rpm up around 2,000, then it went back to working normally.
Car was warmed up and it had been parked for about an hour after a prior 30 minutes of normal driving.
There were no error codes thrown up or messages on the dash. Is this a sign of something that I need to be concerned about? Where would I even start looking for a problem? If this a something that would be covered under warranty I want find it sooner than later so I can get it fixed while I still have coverage.
Car is a 2012 MK6 GTI DSG with 17,000 mi.
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I have noticed this problem off and on over the course of the last year and a half. Last night we had a ridiculous rain here in Longview, TX. and my power cut out at my apt. I decided to go to the girlfriends house, and on the way, kinda took it easy, just because I am paranoid about hydrolock due to having AEM intake.
The problem only happens at WOT. I did this once and then really took it easy the rest of the way there. The engine really seems to cut out though, and the car bucks like a bronco.
Get to her house, park it, hang there for a couple of hours. Driving home I just took it easy, the rain was done, and it was fairly late. The esp light came on 1-2 minutes into the ride home, and stayed on all the way there.
Parked, slept, started up for work the next morning. Dry. No problems at all.
Now what I am wondering is if maybe some water is getting into a connector perhaps grounding out a circuit? And since the ESP light is coming on, maybe the haldex connector? I know there have been threads about ate up connectors due to corrosion, but I don't know if that could throw the system off so much as to cause the engine to "choke".
Currently the car has 75k miles on her.
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