Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 4wd Warning Light Started Flashing
Sep 3, 2012
Looking for some info about the 4wd system.
My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 and several times i've seen the 4wd warning light start flashing. It happens right when i start up the engine, however if I turn the engine off and on again, the light will be off the next time it starts up.
I'm just trying to figure out what kind of problems this warning light would indicate, in case it stays on sometime. I like to plan ahead my car repairs and know what's going on with it. The car has like 190K + miles so it's getting there.
Also I try to avoid the dealer, so I was also wondering if a typical scan tool that most mechanics have could read the codes, or if would need to be done by Hyundai specifically.
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Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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2003 3.5 v6 GLS 141k Miles
So, i changed my oil recently, and at the same time changed both valve cover gaskets (front and rear were leaking). From time to time now, the oil light comes on, and goes off, flickers as i drive over bumps, but cant figure out what the problem is. Since the word "Oil" is too short of a term to search for on the forum it was hard to find many posts about it.
When i changed the valve cover gaskets, i went ahead and changed the plugs and wires as well, no Milkshake, no oil on plugs, .90 on the plugs (originals with 137k miles on them, ouch!) i had a small oil leak for a short time after i changed the oil (first time ive changed it on this vehicle) so i did not know how tight the oil filter had to be, but a slight tighten fixed that leak.
The car has the correct filter, using 10-30 (im in the desert) oil is staying right smack dab in the middle of the line, no burned smell from the oil, no milkshake on the dipstick, no oil in the coolant, Im at a loss on what to do next.
I have a tiny leak from the oil pan gasket, but nothing major, plan to replace this with my next oil change.
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I've just bought a 2.0D Santa Fe (I am UK based) and when I turn on the ignition the warning lights light up and then go off - which I believe is the light check.
However, the transmission warning light does not come on during this check period. Is there an easy way to test this? I'd like to know when the 4WD kicks in or there is a problem but don't know if there's a bulb fault or not.
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I just installed new front brakes and rotors on my 2004 2.7L AWD, and since then the brake warning light on the dash comes on occasionally. Typically, it will turn on when applying the brakes. Usually for a longer period of time to a stop. (Rolling up to a stop sign/stop light, rather than slowing down for a turn). It will either stay on for about 15 seconds or not go off until I hit the brakes again. My e-brake handle is all the way down.
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Two weeks ago I bought a new 2012 Outback. While driving in the manual auto mode, the cruise started flashing, the check engine came on, the traction control light came on and the brake light was on. The dealer said it was because I did not tighten the gas cap, letting air in. They reset it but a few days later it came back on again and this time they said it was miss fire code. Since they couldn't figure out the issue, they did the right thing and traded it in for another, identical 2012 Outback. Now, 8 days later, all the same lights have come on.
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe. I was at a drive thru when my instrument cluster started to go nuts.. all of the lights came on then started flashing.. the RPM gauge was bumping around too.. for a couple seconds.. then it went away.. the next day I was on the way home and it started to do the same thing as the motor began to lose power while climbing a hill then the transmission couldn't figure out which gear it wanted to be in then I could press the gas all the way but nothing would happen.. the battery was completely dead. so I replaced the battery an about a week later it did the same thing. I had the alternator checked out but it was fine..
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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A couple of days ago the TPMS light started flashing on my 2004 GX. This morning I took it to a trusted tire shop. They checked each sensor, including the spare, and found they were all sending a signal. At 11 years old, and they are original as far as I know (I've owned it about 7 years), the tech said the signal may be too weak for the ECU to pick up. He didn't want to start changing sensors in the event it is an ECU issue. Not sure what to do for now, other than leave it alone. Is there a way to confirm the ECU is good? Do the scanners tell how strong the signal is?
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The battery light (but not the ! warning light) suddenly started flashing a week ago, and then a day later the car wouldn't start so I took it in for repair. Was told the battery needed to be replaced, but that it was drained because the alternator was defective. So both replaced. Within one day of driving it home, the battery and various other lights started flashing anew (which had happened last after it was jumped and while I was driving it into the mechanic the first time). Car then went dead again after turning off ignition. Wouldn't start.What's wrong with the car? BTW, mechanic has car (which we towed in) and now can't get problem to recur despite his having driven it around several times, for shorter and longer trips! My sixth sense tells me as soon as I pick the car up and drive home, I'll get the loss of battery/power experience and it going dead yet again! He says he checked for short wires and belt issues.
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This is for our '05 Toyota Camry with 125K miles on the ODO, has ABS but no TPMS.
Around a few weeks ago the ABS light started flashing on start-up. Turned engine off and it went away. This has happened 3 times to far. The light stays off otherwise. Before this we had new tires installed and the car aligned and they said the rear was a bit off (had uneven tire wear), not sure if related or not.
I was able to read the code with shorting two pins and I get 33 & 34 which is both the rear wheel sensors. The part that I am suspicious about is both sensors going out together that not make sense. So I am thinking it is the wiring somewhere. Hopefully not the module ...
For now I have cleared the codes and want to see if they return. The sensors are expensive and seems like I have to take the rear bearing off to change them, so not keen on just throwing parts at it. How to approach the troubleshooting?
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2006 Prius, 134K miles. All tire pressures perfect but pressure indicator light started flashing about a minute then stays on. Happens each time car starts. There have been no weather temperature fluctuations. Attempted indicator reset by pushing “ON” once without pedal push and then pushing and holding pressure reset button under dash for a minute. Nothing happens. Indicator does not come on or flash when pushing the reset button while in “On” mode. Tires have not been changed or rotated since last year.
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I have an 09 ES 350 that I decided to put some very nice subwoofers and amp in. When I found out that I needed more power, I took out my spare tire and mounted a second battery in where the tire is supposed to go.
We'll sure enough when I drove the car later the TPMS light came on and started flashing. The system has to be able to read all 5 TPMS sensors. 4 tires and the spare. So when I took the spare tire out, the system thought there was something wrong with that sensor and turned the light on.
So what I did was I took a piece of PVC pipe and 2 PVC caps, drilled a hole in one of the caps, inserted a new TPMS sensor into the cap, then glued everything together.
After it dried I pressurized it to 35 psi, mounted it in my trunk next to the jack, and reset the TPMS system so the light would go off. Now the TPMS system thinks the spare tire is back and there are no more problems.
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On the way home from purchasing this 2.5i Premium the BRAKE light started flashing when I got to 40mph. - yes, the emergency brake was off. Car was roaring like the brake was on-ablut 5 mi. to home. When I drove it back to dealer/service to get a few minor "We owe" things done, same thing happened again when up to 40mph. This was reported to service and car was driven by service manager. They reported a bad wheel bearing front R, and later in day found out rear R wheel bearing also bad. Yes, to be replaced..
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On the way home tonight, the O/D light started flashing. I happened to have the Bluetooth OBD adapter with me, so I plugged it in and opened Torque. It comes up with a "pending" code of P0743. After a little bit, the light quit flashing so we drove the last mile home. The O/D light began flashing again the last couple hundred feet before our driveway. There didn't seem to be any loss of power or anything like that the whole time.
After we got the kids to bed I went back out to check the fluid level. (It had cooled some, so I let it run a bit before I checked it - the light wasn't flashing this time.) The level is at the second dot, right below the crosshatch. It's almost transparent, but I don't know when it was last flushed (if ever). From what I've seen on here, I'm guessing this is an electrical short somewhere?
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working on a 2000 F-150 (5.4L & 4R70W). the truck was towed to me with the complaint it would not go forward.
I found 6 transmission trouble codes set. I cleared the codes and was able to drive the truck for about 30 miles. It shifted perfectly and had all 4 forward gears, codes did not come back. I parked the truck to check the fluid level (it was full) waited about 15 mins and went to move the truck, As soon as I turned the key and started the engine the CEL came on and the OD light started flashing, the transmission would engage in forward gears but would just chatter when you tried to accelerate.
I checked the codes and found P0743, P0750, P0755, P1747 and P1760 set. I tried clearing the codes again several times and come back instantly when the key is turned on.
I doubt all the electrical solenoids in the transmission have failed at the same time. I suspect the internal connector and/or harness maybe faulty. what is the best course of diagnosis on this? where so I start?
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Parked the car, when wife got back in, got the big exclamation point, SRS warning light, brake off light, airbag off light and most weird the single gas bar flashing when, in fact, I had about 3/4 of a tank. The first part of the problem was that when my keys are in the same pocket as my cell phone, there is interference, so I took the keys out, but the same alarms came on. After playing around with it for a while, including locking and unlocking doors with the remote, it finally started, everything normal, including showing gas just fine. I am original owner, so no accidents. I had just put a heavy object in the trunk, maybe it twisted some wiring? I took it out when I got home.
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2004 v8 phaeton. I have the brake warning light flashing, and the message
BRAKE. BRAKE FLUID. STOP CAR. Have checked the level, O.K. And have tried to flush the system by bleeding the brakes. no positive results.
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After changing the battery on my key fob my immobilizer now wont work.The key fob flashes twice telling us its disarmed but it wont re-arm itself.Now we have followed a coupe of online procedures regarding resetting the transmitter box.We did this and still it wont work.Central locking is working from key and car starting from key,But key fob jsu not syncing up!!
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