Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Compressor Is Dead
May 4, 2016
I'm driving a 2002 Santa Fe (4WD, 6-cyl) without AC. The problem is that the compressor is dead and needs to be replaced - it was diagnosed by both a Hyundai dealership and a local repair shop. I understand that when replacing the compressor, you want to replace the receiver/drier and expansion valve and clean the system to remove any metal shards in circulation. What is unclear is whether or not the condenser also needs to be replaced. This is complicated by the fact that the receiver/drier is physically a part of the condenser. While shopping around, some repair shops said I would have to replace the condenser as well, and others did not.
My questions are these:
- Can I just have the desiccant bag inside the drier replaced, or do I need to replace the entire condenser + receiver/drier unit?
- If replacing just the desiccant bag is an option, is it still smarter to replace the condenser as well in case there is compressor debris lodged in there that can't be flushed?
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I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
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I recently bought a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe the front Fog lights are dead I think I called the dealership about the price of the bulb, but the said I have to buy the whole two pairs fog light.
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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My mother in law has a Santa Fe 2004 with a ~2.4. The AC compressor quit working over the winter. The AC compressor does not react to turning on the AC button.
I checked the fuses. I also tried changing out the AC relay with another one and it still didn't respond. The relay also didn't sound as though it was clicking over. The AC indiacator light is working.
Could it be the actual button has failed or is there a way to check if the button is functioning?
How does the compressor know to engage? Is there a place I can test 12v at the compressor?
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2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
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I have a '03 V6 3.5 Santa Fe. The clutch on the AC compressor went out and was making a loud racket. When I was pulling the compressor off I noticed the wire harness connection to the compressor was damaged. Either by me or previous change.
So the end of the harness on the car side is damaged. Can a new one be purchased and spliced? I cannot see where it goes to see if it can be replaced.
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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Recently I began hearing noise such as a rattle on the right front of the vehicle. It is a 2003 SF 2.7L front wheel drive with almost 180k mi. At first I thought the noise was from the Serp belt tensioner. Now I believe it originates from the compressor clutch.
Does the a/c clutch have a history with its bearings ? Is the clutch replaceable on the compressor or is this a single unit replacement ?
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I have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
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I own a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3 V6 engine and 129,000 miles, I am the second owner. When I bought the car a month ago I had it tuned up by a local shop, not the dealer, I was getting around 23 MPG hwy and around 17 City, then just this week I noticed an increase in gas consumption to 13 mpg in the city and the car losses power when coming off a stop. I took the car to the shop and the said that there was a faulty coolant sensor, they replaced it and I drove it home, the car lost fire 3 times within 5 miles from the shop.
I took the car back to the shop and they kept it there for half a day, when I stop by they said that their computer shows two reports, one a faulty oxygen sensor and the other a problem with the catalytic converter, I asked which converter and they could not tell me. I also inquired why is it that the check engine light has not come on once, they also had no answer.
I then too it to a muffler shop, explained the situation and they said that if there is no check engine on they cannot diagnose the problem, thus drove back home where the car lost fire twice, always coming off a full stop, no hesitation, no missing, the car's engine simply goes off, I turn the key and comes back to life, it doesn't shake or sputter, as if nothing happened and again, no check engine light.
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AC stop working after an alternator replacement ?. I tried crawling under the truck to see if the mechanic didn't plug the compressor back in as he said he had to take it off to get the Alt out, but it looks like the plug is fine. Would the refrigerant have leak all out when he took it off ?. Should I try to re - charge myself with Red - tek kit from Canadian tire ?. The compressor will spin easy enough when I reach down and move it by hand but will not engage when I press in the AC buttons.
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Have an issue with my front air con not working.....
When you start the car there is a rattle/squeaking noise, this sounds like a worn pulley, when you press the air con button to turn it on the noise stops. It does not make any sound changes to the unit/engine to indicate the compressor engages and the is no cooling from the unit.....
Is it a new compressor or is there a common fix for this issue?
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I have Santa fe 2009, I was in a 5 days trip, now I'm back home and it seems like that the car's light was on so the battery is goes dead, now I can not open the car's door neither by remote nor by the key! why I can not open the car door with key?
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My air con is not working, it started making an oscillating sound and not getting cold, which I think is the compressor. Garage couldn't find any leaks using a dye. So I asked my mechanic to change it. The generic part was a little over 300 but when he went to fit it it had the wrong number of mounting holes. Think he said it had three instead of the four from the original part? So he was not sure it was a suitable part, so didn't fit it. Because in the UK the CM model started selling in 2006 not 2007 it's possible he got confused and got a part for the older model? The car is definitely a CM!
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2012 Santa Fe SE and the battery went completely, utterly dead. Reason unknown but that's not the issue for now. The battery was purchased new.
Also, I had a Viper 4204 remote starter installed after I got the car, April 2014. I use the keyfob that came with the Viper to open the doors and start the car as needed.
Trying to get a jump start but as soon as I connect the cables the alarm goes off and the car won't start. Called the place where I had the remote start put in and he suggested two things. Use the original Hyundai keyfob and press the unlock button to stop the alarm. Or put the key in the ignition turned to the ON position BEFORE connecting the cable to the battery. Tried both, neither worked. Also tried just holding down the kill switch under the hood. But that didn't work either.
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I'm having starter issues with my santa fe. After changing the battery and doing some trouble-shooting I narrowed my problem down to one of the relays in the engine compartment.
Almost every morning when I go to start my car the dash lights are dead and the engine wont turn over. I smack a bit on the relays it will start up and until today keep running for the rest of the day.
Tonight it stalled on me in traffic and I got to experience the enjoyment of smacking my relays on the highway. I am thinking either moisture or a faulty relay with intermittent signals might be the culprit.
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About 4 months ago, I had the battery replaced since the car was not starting easily and they said voltage was not good. They also shimmed the ignition coil at the same time. I thought it was a bit early for a new battery but ok.
Last Friday I started getting a flashing battery light on the console but no other issues. Thought I would bring it in Monday.
Sunday I was driving on the highway and all warning lights came on, flashing, console died then came back on with a bunch of warning lights and then the car died. I managed to get off the highway with about 10% power and park in a lot. Car would not start once I turned it off, click, click, click, click like no power etc but rest of power in car seemed fine. Started fine Monday morning and I drove it to the dealership.
The dealership says the code was P2502 (Charging System Voltage). They are going to replace the Battery Sensor first and then if that doesn't work replace the Alternator.
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Last night, while my wife was driving, the battery light on her instrument panel started flashing. This morning the battery light came back on when she started the car. As she was driving on the highway, the ABS light, the stability light, and couple other lights came on, plus her she was losing power to her wheels. She said it then felt like the car was towing a heavy object and that there was no power going to the wheels or any other part of the car. She was able to drive it a few miles to a parking lot, where it died.
When she tried to restart it, she heard a clicking sound, but had no power and the engine was not turning over. She could not remote lock the doors because the all power was gone.
The tow truck driver tested the car and said the battery is fine, but that the alternator was dead. She had it towed to the dealer, who also says it is the alternator that is the problem.
This all occurred after we had a previous, and resolved issue, to the instrument panel (including the light around the cigarette lighter) and the taillights going out intermittently. The dealer disconnected the electrical connection to the towing package and the lights have stayed on since.
Seems odd to have an alternator go on a two-year old vehicle (we bought it new in Jan 2011). Could it actually be the alternator or something else?
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Looking for a detailed procedure for replacing the A/C compressor on 2001 Taurus with a 3.0L Vulcan engine (any references would be also useful...) ? I have the Haynes manual but the procedure there is not detailed enough to me. It seems that I have to remove the PS pump to get to the compressor, or the passenger side cooling fan, but the Haynes manual does not mention them.
Should I also replace the Accumulator, or not necessarily? I have heard some people writing that it has to be done, while others say that it is not necessary.
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My AC stopped working, not sure when as we hadnt used it since last fall and I tried it once over the winter to keep it lubed up.
Tried so far:
Pressure switch on the evaporator - wont turn on the compressor. Had the truck running with AC running(warm air) jumped the connector with no result.
Air clutch spacing - currently at .032 is this too much? If I read it right, it should be .020? Would that cause it to not engage at all? What would my next step be to try?
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