Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Engine Oil Light Flicker When Pulling Up At Roundabouts Or Junctions
Mar 27, 2013
100k 2.0D .... Recently when pulling up at roundabouts or junctions either at low speed or quite rapidly, the engine oil light flickers. This doesn't happen at all on idle no matter how high it is revved and never while speeding up or at high speeds. I have tried to narrow the time it happens and just ended up being confusing because it can happen slowing down while in gear with engine under strain or to a lesser extent while coasting with g/box in neutral at idle speed.
The engine oil and filter has been changed but to no avail (as expected). I could check the oil pressure sender and wiring but it doesn't make sense as why the fault is not sporadic and quite consistent when it happens. (Also I did look at trying to remove the sender unit and possible fitment of a pressure gauge but how the *BEEP* do you get any tools to that!). I did mention it to a friend who knows a pair of mechanics at a local garage who both straight away went *ooooh sounds like big end bearings!!*
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I bought the car 3 years ago 2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe , I have driven it around 200 miles ( to and from shops ), I am having an issue now where once the car is warmed up ( post 15 mins ) It will idle really low * almost stalling * and oil pressure light will flicker, If I hold the brake and get it to almost 800 - 1k RPM it goes off and driving is not an issue *no knock*. I just got it driving for the 1st time in the past year, and drove it for about 45 mins in stop an go traffic, Temp light was all the way to cold, once stopped in stop and go traffic it would go up half way, as soon as I could get above 50mph it would slowly work itself all the way to the bottom?
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2003 2.4L Hyundai Santa fe
I should really count my losses and move on but I cant.
Bought the car with 89K on it I now have 90K
New Battery
New Radiator
New Motor mounts 3
New Trans mount 1
New Hoses
Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Trans Oil Change ( 40 miles ago )
Power Steering Fluid change ( 40 miles ago )
2nd cat delete ( didn't want to waste any more money )
After Market 1st Cat
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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I own a 2004 Hyundai Santa fe with 40k miles on it. I drove it to Vegas about 2 hours ago and noticed that about every 6 minutes the headlight would kind of flicker. It was pretty constant the whole trip. There are no other lights that flicker, it's only the headlights. Is this a known problem?
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02 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD
I noticed the other day while out on the property that the rear wheels were not pulling and after a little investigation found that my AWD has now become a FWD. I checked the transmission fluid (not sure if the trans fluid even goes to the transfer case or not) and it was about a quart low but clean and not burnt. Topped the fluids off and still only have the front wheels pulling.
I was going to pull the rear diff plug and see what it looked like in there but I have a feeling it's probably froze in there and the bolt may break taking it off. I may have to wait till I can dedicate a weekend to working on it before I start tearing anything apart. The drive train is flawless and has been minimal effort since we purchased the vehicle new and all the sudden without warning this is happening.
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I have a 2001 NISSAN Frontier that the hi-mount third brake light appears the be going out. I've trie to remove the plastic light bezel but a clip is holding in the connector. I'm afraid to use too much force while pushing in the clip with a flat head screwdriver but that is the only thing I know to use. The lights are dim and seem to flicker as the brake pedal is pressed.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe 2.7L that has the engine light that comes on and off intermittently. I went to the Auto Part Store and they read the computer and said it was O2 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1. I believe that is the upstream sensor on the radiator side (top sensor before the converter) but am not 100% sure.
Also, I am confused when they say left side and right side of the engine as the engine is transfixed. Is left side the driver's side of the engine or is it firewall side? Where the left and right sides are.
For example, the computer readout said O2 sensor upstream right but the tech said bank 2. are they one and the same?
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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
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I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.
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My '04 santa fe 3.5 v6 gls/lx, 79k miles, gas, auto, check light has just come on while I was driving a less than 10 mile journey. How can I check what is wrong. Do I need some sort of diagnostic code checker. Do any national outlets check it for free (Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc).
Just 5 days ago (about 50 miles only) I had timing belt, water pump, plugs and leads replaced, brakes checked and lubes flushed; BUT not at above dealers. I would rather know what the code is saying before I go back to the shop who carried out the work.
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How can i turn off check engine light (hyundai santa fe 2003 3.5) by fuse ? I do not have any code scanner.
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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I recently purchased a 3.5 V6 Santa fe. The Check engine light keeps going on. I took it to a few shops and I am getting the same code. It is the O2 sensor in bank one. (I think the the code was po170.) The light keeps going on and off. All I can find are the same problems with different Santa Fe engines (2.7, etc. )... My SUV has 100,050 miles on it.
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2001 Camry 4 cylinder 86000 miles. I lubricated the springs, mechanism, and cables under the hood and under the dashboard.Gas pedal is only sticky sometimes, usually when pulling away from a red light where the engine speed drops to idle for a couple minutes. Idle is smooth, no check engine light.Any tricks or tips to fix it? Problem started maybe 2 weeks ago. We have had nice warm weather so I don't think it's weather related. All parts are clean and rust-free.
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I have an 2004 Santa Fe and im having some Mass Air Flow Sensor problems but I dont know what's wrong. My engine light came on for the second time after awhile. And I got it checked for the code and of course it was my sensor again. The first time I just giggled it around and the light went off. I did the same thing today with giggling it again went off. So I feel like it might be a loose connection but I really hope it isn't failing because im pretty sure that's uber expensive to fix.
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I noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
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Engine light come on and everything is running great, this morning got this error code U0d00. Went to advanced auto and had them run a scan.
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I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe with the 3.5 with 112000 miles on it. I had the engine light come on with the code P0302 cyl #2 misfire, I got spark plugs, plug wires to do a tune up on it. I changed all of it and got it back together, started it up and it still had a miss to it. I then took the front spark plugs out and did a compression test on it. #2 was at 85, #4 was at 120, and #6 was at 160. I couldn't check the back cyls because I had already put the intake back on. I then did a wet test, and all the cyls came up to 160. So this tell me that the piston rings are bad in #2 and going bad in #4. I have kept all the oil changes up and up to this point I haven't had any trouble with it. Having this problem with there 3.5?
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I have A 2001 Santa Fe. The check engine light came on about 3 weeks ago and the car was still running fine up until the last few days it felt a little sluggish. Today I got a little muffled backfire noise. It was like a putting noise if I pushed on the gas to hard to speed up. The car has 95,000 miles on it.The car starts up with no problems and doesn't stall. Its A 6 cylinder All wheel drive vehicle.
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Check engine light on, car stalled once. Pulling code p0320 "Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction." Tachometer works intermittently. Where do I start?
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