Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Leakage In Front Of Radiator
Oct 6, 2015
My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
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I was teaching my kid how to drive in a parking lot and noticed white smoke coming from the front when parked. There seems to be a leak on the top side of the radiator, where the plastic top connects to the aluminum body. I also noticed that radiator fan does not come up at all. Outside temp was around 40F but I would think it should have come on when driving at 5-15 mph in a parking lot for 1+ hours. Temp gauge is on the left side of the middle indicator so technically the engine is not overheated, unless the temp probe is bad. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? I have a 2005 Santa Fe 3.5L GLS FWD.
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I have a 2006 2.7 gls awd santa fe ,the alternator bearing went bad and got stuck took the alternator to a repair shop to get fixed, put it back on the santa fe the alternator worked just fine now i have the radiator fan and ac fan not working, I turn the ac on and none of then work I wait for the car to heat up and nothing happens I check the radiator fan by connecting it directly to the battery and it works fine ,i have swap the horn relay with the radiator relay and it is working fine. I will check net the fuses, then the thermostat and later on the temperature sensor.
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My daughters radiator fan would not turn on, and I isolated it to this connector that connects the radiator fan to the wiring harness. The problem is that I've tried for a hour trying to unplug the darn thing, but it won't come apart. I've opened the two covers on each side and see the burnt wire, but I've been pinching the little pincher thingy and pulling and it won't come apart. I see Hyundai has a replacement connector (91200-26000-fff) but the dealers are now closed till Tuesday. Need to get it apart & is replacing with another connector from an auto parts store advised?
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Today I noticed my 2003 santa fe was leaking coolant. I got under it and noticed it was coming from a small red cap under the radiator on the driver side. I figured it was the drain cap. It's kinda hidden so it will be hard to remove and replace so any tips on how to do this.
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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So a few days ago, I decided to check the anti-freeze for adequacy. It was just replaced with the timing belt / water pump job; but I'm a pilot, and I'm accustomed to checking things for myself. Lo and behold, the hydrometer didn't even register. I thought it was stuck, but then I noticed the oily film, and got scared. And then as I investigated further, I got puzzled.
The car had been driven maybe 500 miles since the timing belt / water pump job, had not overheated, and had not lost any coolant. The level in the radiator was up to the cap. Also, there was no oil at all in the radiator (at least that I could detect), and the concentration tested fine. But there was oil in the reservoir -- but it didn't look like crankcase oil. It was clear -- like water -- and felt a bit thinner than crankcase oil. Also, the outlet at the bottom of the reservoir was clogged.
There also was some sealant in the reservoir (it looked like the BarsLeak tablets), but none that I could detect in the radiator. That in itself doesn't bother me because a lot of people (including me) routinely toss a few tablets in the coolant -- Saturn used to do it from the factory -- but it does suggest at least the possibility of a previous coolant leak that someone treated with BarsLeak.
At the moment, there's no evidence of coolant loss, no water in the exhaust, no water in the oil, and no oil in the radiator. I haven't done a compression test. I did change the plugs, and there were no obvious coolant deposits on them. They were carbon-fouled, but considering that the PCV valve was clogged and the mileage on the plugs, that didn't surprise me.
So what I'm postulating is that the previous owner's son (who was the primary driver of the car) mistakenly poured some sort of engine oil additive, power steering additive, or something else intended for use elsewhere, into the reservoir; and the mechanic who did the timing belt and water pump didn't notice it (which also kind of bothers me).
The fact that the power steering pump had a bit of chatter would tend to reinforce that hypothesis. I've been doing a gradual replacement of the power steering fluid, which seems to have quieted things down. It was black as tar when I started, so I probably should completely replace it. I may do that this coming weekend. In any case, I removed, cleaned, and unclogged the coolant reservoir, replaced it, refilled it, and everything seems fine. It's kind of baffling, though.
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As I fill my radiator it quickly leaks on top where the black plastic area is. Does that require a radiator replacement? 2005 Santa Fe ....
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2002 Santa Fe with 140K. Superbly well maintained.
I notice . Looked all around....then on the radiator toward the top where the metal meets the plastic. I noticed wetness across the entire radiator. Thought it may be coming from the upper hose and spreading across....Replaced the upper hose....Not the problem.
Still has anti freeze seeping across the radiator / plastic area. Does the mean the entire radiator needs replacing? I have searched the forums and seems like no one had replaced a radiator on the Santa.
Is the radiator breaking down. Oh, it's NOT the water pump.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 3.5L engine and 92,000 miles.
For the past week or so, I have noticed a very slight smell of antifreeze/radiator fluid every once in a while. I assumed that it is a radiator hose leak or possibly a leak in the heater core. But, the vehicle does not overheat, there is no steam or fog inside that would indicate a possible heater core leak, and the radiator fluid level seemed full or almost full (although the radiator overflow container was empty). I added a little water to the radiator and filled the overflow container to make sure there was plenty of radiator fluid in the system.
I haven't seen any radiator fluid on the ground around the vehicle at anytime. When I open the hood, I don't see any leaking hoses. I took off the engine cover to see better, and I don't see any leak around the water pump, or dripping from the pump, or dripping from any hoses, etc. But, BELOW the water pump is something made of cast metal that I am guessing is the automatic transmission(?) -- I really don't know what it is. And, sitting in some valleys or crevices in that part are small pools of green fluid that clearly looks and smells like radiator fluid with antifreeze.
I ran the vehicle for a long time while watching to see if I could create or see the leak or anything dripping etc. But I don't see anything other than
those pools of green liquid just sitting there. I tried moving or wiggling the hoses, and nothing changed. I also tried keeping it running with the heat on high, then later with the AC on high -- still no change. Then I tried using paper towels and sopping up what I could that was in these valleys/crevices, then I drove it again (but only for about 4 miles so far) and I don't see any new fluid in the crevices or anywhere else.
Here are 5 photos that I took with the engine cover off while the green fluid was still there. The photos go from a wider angle overall view down to a view of the green puddles from a slight angle and then down to a top view of the green puddles.
[URL] ....
Where you may see dark areas on the water hoses near the water pump, they are just shadows created by the flash or the sun or whatever. The hoses themselves are all one color and are not wet etc.
My questions:
Am I correct that where the small green puddles are is the automatic transmission?
Is it possible that there is some connection between that (the automatic transmission(?)) and the radiator cooling system?
Is it possible that the cooling system somehow also cools the automatic transmission (or whatever that is)?
If so, could the leak be right there -- maybe where that bolt or the other wire/connection piece is -- and the radiator fluid is coming UP from there? What this may be or where the leak is coming from?
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I purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
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Started getting a knocking in the front end when you hit small pot holes. I was wondering would it be strut mounts or something else ?
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On my first trip with the new Santa Fe. After 400 miles today, while just 50 miles from Vegas, the A/C blower quit working. It sounded like it was blowing as normal but almost no air was coming from the vents. Being just 50 miles out I pushed on.
After arriving home (only 98 today luckily) I turned off the car and unloaded. After about 20 minutes, I started the car and the A/C and blower seemed fine. I looked at the ground and about a pint of water (at least it looked and felt like water I did not taste it) seemed to leak after I started it from the center of the car about even with the front door. What happened? Any cause for alarm?
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The best that I can describe what it feels like is at around 30 to 40 mph it shakes like your going over the side shoulder little pumps with both wheels. Only at those speeds... I all ready changed struts, tires, rack in pinion, upper and lower ball joints and tie rods. I have not change the tie rods that go up and down from struts to spindle its like 6" long or so can that be it? Or CV shaft?...
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'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
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I have a 2001 hyundai santa fe v6 all wheel drive the car is actually my wifes car and she likes it however I have recently noticed some significant rust on the front subframe where the the lower control arm attaches my question is is there or is there not a recall for this again 2001 v6 awd salt belt car ohio to be exact again.
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My front right caliper does not work. was changed ( both sides) also hose from right side because it still did not work. Found that fluid gets from reservoir to abs but does not come out to front right wheel. Place air pressure from hose to abs, and runs fine, from reservoir to abs and runs fine from abs to out from abs to front right and air does not go in.
But when pressure goes from out of abs to in abs from reservoir air flows fine also. What is going on...
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'05 Santa Fe 2WD 3.5. Front end shimmy at about 70 mph. bad CV joint. I am replacing both left and right. Got everything out of the way to remove both CV's. Problem: The retaining ring at the end of the axle shaft will NOT release the axle. Pry bar not having any affect.
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Last couple months, I've started to have some major vibration in the front end when reaching the 60-70 mph range. Some minor vibration in the 55-60 and 70-75 ranges, but primarily (and worse) in the 60-70 range. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas for more acceleration (particularly when I gun it), not when I'm coasting in that range. I had the tires balanced a month or so ago, so I know it's not that.
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I just picked up a 2006 GLS with 66,600 miles. Everything works great aside from the front door actuators. Outside at the drivers door I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the passenger front door). From the passenger side I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the drivers door). The Central door lock switch will not lock or unlock the front passenger door.
I am hoping that the fact that either side functions with the other doors indicates that the actuators are still working. My guess is that the front actuators just aren't communicating with each other. Is this just a programming problem that the Hyundai Hi Scan Pro computer can resolve? It doesn't appear that the vehicle has been programmed for the xx MPH automatic door lock. We had to have the dealer program this "option" on our 2007.
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2003 Santa Fe 3.6 V6 with ABS
The car sat virtually driven for a year before it was given to me. After 2 weeks of normal driving this past December, the power brakes completely went out. Had to drive the pedal to the floor to stop at even slow speeds. Took the mechanic and they replaced the Master Cylinder and both brake lines.
Shortly thereafter had an unrelated issue with a coilpack gone bad. Replaced coilpack and at that time replaced both sets of brake pads on the rear.
In January, started noticing grinding metal on metal from both front brakes. Took the mechanic and they replaced both calipers, rotors, and pads.
2 weeks or so later, after 10 minutes of driving the front brakes started dragging. The pedal would become extremely hard, and I could notice thew smell of the pads burning. Would have to pull over, put the car in park and pump the brakes to get the calipers to release. This would occur intermittently every few days. Pumping the brakes would always solve the problem.
Over time, the issue became worse, ocurring far more frequently. Around this time I noticed leaving the engine on in park while pumping the brakes would no longer solve the issue. I would have to completely turn the car off and pump the brakes to get them to release.
Started noticing around this same time that the left rear started grinding. The brake pads completely wore down in 3 months time. Too to the mechanic. Replaced caliper, rotor and pads.
Still having the same issue with the brakes dragging. One mechanic thought it could be ABS related and advised me to pull the fuse and the two breakers to diagnose. Still had the same issue, so put the fuse and breakers back in.
No mechanic seems to know what is going on with it, and I'd hate to have to replace all the brakes again as the problem goes untreated. Is it possible that the master cylinder or brake booster could be the issue? It's a brand new master but that doesn't necessarily mean anything, I'm told. Again, I can only get the brakes to release the pressure by pumping the pedal with the engine off.
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