I need to know if my 06 GLS FWD has traction control. There's a TC light on the instrument panel, but no TC switch anywhere. Edmunds.com lists TC as a standard feature on the 06. I want to avoid trying to break loose the tires to find out. I've chirped the tires once during acceleration.
View 5 RepliesWithin a few miles my ABS and traction control lights go on...when I shut it down they go back off, but, within 5 miles or so, they're back on again..how do I diagnose on which wheel the offending sensor is causing this?
View 6 RepliesI have heard that there is a traction control code u can have switched on when your car is started traction control is automatically off and u have to use the switch to turn it on!
View 5 RepliesNew problem this evening went to start Santa fe and ABS and Traction Control lights are on tried to shut ignition off and restart and both remain on. Drove the vehicle and noticed no brake control problems, tried to push the traction control switch and no on off control of light remains on. I believe in a situation such as this a good computer diagnose at the dealer is in order.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2011 Santa Fe 3.5L automatic with AWD. I have had a issue with the traction control indicator locking up. The traction control light on the dash goes on and cannot be canceled by the on/off control. It will reset when the engine is turned off and restarted. It is my understanding that the indicator should be lit when the system is actively meeting a traction control issue.
The dealer has performed service on the vehicle twice for this issue, and on a recent trip the system triggered again. It has engaged and locked on dry surfaces during a moderate turn while accelerating (merging from exit ramp). I have seen it engage under slippery conditions (snow... we live in Wisconsin) while turning and then return to normal once the conditions are stable.
My concern is that since the traction control affects braking in order to achieve stability under unusual conditions, that the possibility exists for a malfunction under braking conditions that might cause more problems than it solves.
My daughter just had a new front tire put on her Audi A6 AWD, 2001 car and now her traction control will not turn on. I've been told that being it is all wheel drive that the tires need to have the same wear and that all tire will need to be replaced to prevent damage.
View 4 RepliesI need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
I have strange issue with my a/c fan, its running continues even will the a/c switch is off.
I cant stop it. So I have to remove the fuse to stop it. My ac panel is automatic.
How to remove center panel in order to replace faulty blower switch?
View 1 Replies2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 RepliesNo audio on 2001 Toyota Echo radio. Volume control never stops when rotated. Radio lights up, showing station frequencies as I change stations. My conclusion is Power-Volume switch is shot and needs to be replaced. Sound logical? Is it a big problem to remove radio and change the switch?
View 2 RepliesMy 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
I've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
View 3 RepliesI have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
I have a '05 santa fe, auto, 2.7L, 4WD...sometimes I have to jiggle the shifter to get the engine to crank...would this be the neutral safety switch? or is there something in the shifter housing that could be causing this?
Maybe a minor adjustment... Just a slight movement of the shifter and it fires right up... If it is the neutral safety switch..where is it located? on the trans?
I have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
View 1 RepliesSon has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
View 3 Replies2004 santa fe, 2.7 L engine, temperature control doesn't work, it blows out hot air only. All fuses look good and I tried a new A/C heater control unit with no luck.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 2.7 auto. Quite suddenly the speedo and cruise control have stopped working. Everything else works just fine...
View 2 Replies