Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Surging Upon Startup And High Idle RPMS - TPS Replaced
Jun 24, 2015
2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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My girlfriend has a 2008 with around 120k miles on it. It's been pretty flawless but yesterday the RPMs started surging while idle and made kind of a high pitch humming noise when accelerating.
Today on her way to work she said the radio was going in and out, the battery light lit up and then the rest of the dash lights came on, and the speedometer stopped working.
What could be the problem? Could it just be the battery?
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2002 santafe 4x4 v6. about week earlier I had a cel for temp sensor voltage high. so I replaced it. then... my power steering cooling loop by radiator started to leak from corrosion and for some reason my coolant gauge was reading about a needle with from the red. (maybe from getting ps fluid on it? idk) so I went to investigate why it was leaking and I thought the cooling loop pluged into a cooler on radiator so I removed my lower front engine mound and motor mount by the timing belt so I could raise engine up a2" to get a better look. when I saw it was just a loop and that was my leak I ordered replacement. It came in I swapped it out. Pretty easy . Decided to do a radiator flush and replace thermostat. Why I was at it. I drained radiator and took the old thermostat out. was gonna leave it out for the flush to cycle better. When I started it up it was idling around 4k rpms. I figured it might be because of thermostat so I put the new one in.
Started it up and same thing.... I check all the vac lines I could find all were tight. I unplugged them one at a time at throttle body/intake tube and blocked it off with my finger and it was still idling high. It also started surging. going from 2k to 4k and going back and forth. I checked the maf and it was clean as a whistle. No leaks on intake pipe. If I put my hand over maf it sucks the tube towards the throttle body. no air leaks anywhere. Took off iac valve its clean. I plugged the holes where it is on tb and started it up and no change in what its doing. also the throttle body flap is closed the hole time. Iac seems to be properly opening and closing. when I watched it after I unbolted it. I sprayed brake cleaner all over manifold to check for air leaks no change in high idle. I also took off the evap valve hose to tb and plugged it at tbody and no success.
I checked my sensor connectors and there tight and no wires are pulled out. I have yet to check cam sensor connection. (does it have a cam sensor?) I unplugged battery over night. this morning it ran at 2k rpm for two mins then surged to 4k. could it be my throttle position sensor? is there a way I can check with multi meter? Ive done a lot of research and it seems like a common problem with Hyundai but people don't leave a what fixed it post after they figure it out. they just leave the threads hanging. I hope I can figure this out.
When I get home tonight Ill plug where the brake booster vac line goes in. I looked at the hose and it was super tight and didn't seem to be leaking but maybe booster is idk. Ill also check wires to all 02 sensors. but if o2 sensor wire was broke wouldn't it throw a cel? Also no check engine light. but id did have an abs light come on the other day. was thinking maybe an abs sensor at the wheel but I am not sure. That light was on for a week before this issue started. It was never revving up until I started working on the other issues from my research I am guessing throttle position sensor. I am going to multimeter it tonight.
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As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe that I am getting road ready for my son, The engine has recently started idling very high, 2500 RPM at startup. I disconnected the IAC servo and it drops right down to about 900 RPM. I replaced the IAC with a brand new one and it does the same thing at startup, 2500+ RPM. Checked vacuum hoses / tubes. I replaced 2 crack / dry vacuum hoses. Same problem for a while, then idle went down to about 1250. Started to drive it, test ride. while accelerating, seems OK as soon as I take my foot off of the gas, idle goes to 2500 - 3000 RPM until I apply brakes and then it drops back down to 1000 or so. (SOUNDS LIKE A VACUUM LEAK PROBLEM. I CANT FIND IT, IVE BEEN THROUGH 2 CANS OF CARB CLEANER AND HOURS OF REPLACING ALL VACUUM HOSES.)
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
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My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
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My mother has a '04 Santa Fe 3.5. Her automobile makes a rattling/grinding sound when around 1000rpms/idle. However, the sound disappears when accelerating and drives like a charm. The sound returns once again around 1000rmps at idle or stop. I have changed the oil pan, replaced oil and filter and even put in a new battery. I'm not an aficionado when it comes to Hyundais (Subaru driver here).Car also has 180k miles.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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The car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
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I had my license revoked for a year so my baby had sit for a year with know one to drive it.. now before i had to put her in storage she ran fine no problems what so ever.. I would time to time start her up for a while over the winter but because of family problems there was a time where she sat for couple months without starting and letting her run. Now when i had the time to do it it was like i walked up and got into a whole different car, here is what i got going on....
Go to start it up and she will idle up to 600rpms then die out i would have to give it gas to try to start her but the thing is i can only go up to 2k rpms or it will just auto drop down to about 800rpms. i would usually have to floor it all the way to even get it to stay idle by her self its not as bad anymore but still does it. Also it smells like gas like crazy when it starts up,i had a half of tank when i kept her in storage so idk if its just bad gas doing this but seems like a lot of problems just for having bad gas in it, and she puts out smoke white smoke..now i know shes running rich because me and a buddy looked into it. also there is a crazy sound since shes been sitting that has never happened before it sounds almost like the belts need to be lubed up but the belts are fine and its loud from under the front bumper my friend said he thinks i blow my turbo but I don't see how that could be just from sitting for time to time.. the car and motor has a shake to it as well.
I tried to drive her up and down my hill a couple times to see if i can just break some cob webs loose or anything but you give her gas she barely once to go and if she does she get to 2k rpms then die down and hardly moves and if i floor it to the ground it takes a bit to get up and going but then drives seeming like nothing was wrong. I have never had any of this issues before I put her for storage and now i have 4 weeks till I get to roam the streets again but sadly my b5 is dying on me.
Motor specs: Stock 1.8t 75k miles 5 speed tiptronic 1999....
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I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
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I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
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Even on a warm day, when I "cold start" the car....the revs hang high for a long time....at least a good minute or two. This is my first PZEV(VW) engine though--CPRA--so I'm assuming it's for the emissions? With the intake & exhaust I have on...it's obviously A LOT more noticable.
For the first 10-15 seconds, there is a HUGE sucking sound for the SAI pump and then that shuts off....but then it still screams along at 1,200-1,500 RPM's for another minute or two until it'll FINALLY settle down to idle.
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I've got a 2006 2.4L manual trans - runs great, except every once in a while, at low r.p.m., it surges or bucks. Sometimes, I press the gas and not much happens for a second then it takes off.
Other - much more rare - times it bucks like a jackrabbit a few times until I let off the gas, start over, and it accelerates fine. And most randomly of all, the idle seems erratic - not rough or jumping all over the place, but not always at the exact same r.p.m. Or if I come to a stop, the idle will drop really low for a second, then "wake back up" and idle normally.
But then most often of all, it drives normally. Anyway, step one was to run a tank of premium gas with a good injector cleaner. Which I'm doing now. Wondering if it's spark plug wires?
No "check engine light" at any point during this. All maintenance up to date; recent spark plugs; 187,000 km.
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