Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Won't Go Into Park Or Start
Aug 9, 2010
I have been getting a 2006 Santa Fe GLS A/T back on the road for friend who let it sit for almost 2 years because the bumper had gotten knocked off. I charged the battery to get the car to start and it started up OK, but the front brakes were shot completely. I then proceeded to replace the front brake pads and rotors, and when I went to start the car again I noticed something peculiar.
The car wouldn't start, or even attempt to (didn't here it cranking at all). I know the battery is good, and all the other components in the car turn on when I turn the key to A/C setting. I have the shift lever in what would seem to be Park, but the light on the console shows it is Reverse. It shows the car is in reverse when I have it in Park or Reverse, and shows Neutral when I have it in Neutral.
Before I did the brakes (which I don't believe to be related) it was being a bit fussy about switching gears and going into park, but it was definitely working.
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Two times in the last month my 2003 Sante Fe would not start - the radio, air conditioning would come on but nothing from the engine - not even a click - no check engine light. Had it towed both times - as soon as it was towed it would start up. It seems to happen in 2 week intervals. Now I realize bc they had it in neutral to get on the truck that is what facilitates it start. It hasn't happened in a week but I know it will again.
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1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
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05 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, 71,000 miles
Prior to today it had revved high, up to 3000 RPM, once or twice upon start-up but then settled down once I started driving it with no issues at stop lights.
Today, however, no issues upon start-up but within 1 mile it started acting badly. Pulls strong under load, i.e, accelerating. Once cruising speed is achieved and the right foot is relaxed, it loses power, slows and bucks.
At stop lights revs are down to below 800 while in drive and is slow out of the gate. When put in neutral at stop lights, it revs to 3000 then falls to 2000 then back up to 3000. It does not stall.
Replaced the IAC and it ran fine in park for exactly 2 minutes then began revving again.
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My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe has recently started idling very high when put in park or neutral. While in drive the engine idles above 1K and you need to keep your foot on the brake to keep from moving forward. If you shut down the vehicle while idling high, the car will not start right away. It needs to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before restarting. It will run fine for awhile but will go back to revving up again.
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Earlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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Isn't the park gear selector indicators suppose to me illuminated when you turn on the lights, mine aren't. Why?? stick shift between seats on floor.
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2004 Santa Fe 3.5 has started idling rough when in park or when stopped and in drive. When I'm actually driving, it runs smooth and doesn't seem to have any issues or hesitation. I tested my EGR valve with a vacuum pump and it held 7Hg of vacuum and did not leak. I think that indicates it is working still?
I think my issue may be the EGR Solenoid, but I'm not sure how to test it. When I remove the Green hose from the Throttle Body, there is a good vacuum coming from it and my car speeds the idle up and seems to run smoother. I think that means there's some kind of blockage? When I have the Solenoid off, you can blow through it, which I think means it is open.
I think I have to replace the Solenoid, but didn't want to just buy parts.
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what would cause a pulsating rough idle when in park with the defrost or a/c on? when I turn it off or to any other position it's fine even when I turn if off it's fine as well? there is no Check Engine Light showing at this point.
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This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
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Would bad harmonic dampener cause vibration when in park or when in gear but idling? Highway speeds no vibration..
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UK 2.2 Diesel
Problem for about 3 years. Always starts in neutral, rarely starts in park.
Any possible cause. Maybe a micro switch or a cable adjustment.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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My 2001 Escort has two intermittent issues which I think are related. At times the car does not start when turning the key to start position there no clicking and engine does not turn over. but all other electric work. Battery and starter have been tested and both passed. Second issue is some times when it starts the shift lever will not move out of the park position. Does this car needs to have the break depressed before it will start and come out of park and could a safety switch be the cause?
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe and every time after I pump gas into it it will not start. I try to start it five to six times and it finally starts but chugs and stalls unless I pump the gas. This lasts until I've driven for a few minutes.
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My '05 Sante Fe 2.7 doesn't want to start after fueling up. I have to hold the accelerator pedal down, like we used to on the old rods when we flooded the engine, to get it to start. I replaced the gas cap thinking that was the issue, but didn't fix it. I get no check engine light and with 340k miles, it sent out several codes a while back at the dealer. Could it be the fuel filter or pump?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with about 85,000 miles. I went to go to work today and it would not start. Just clicking. So I jumped it and it started right up. On My way to work I noticed all the lights were dim. I turned on the turn signal and all the gages went dead and the transmission started to shift rough. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. I just replaced the taillight, but drove it for a few days with no problems. Just thought I would mention that.
When I arrived at work, parked it and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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I have a 2004 Santa fe with the 3.5 auto transmission. It has developed a clunk on take off from a start. It will usually clunk two or three times like it is shifting hard, but it is not. I have had a mechanic ride with me (he was not sure what the cause was), a check with a transmission shop said they had never heard of an issue like that with this model, and had it checked for diagnostic codes (there are none).
They are not sure whether it is in the transmission or the AWD, and want to send it to a transmission shop to check it out (feels like exploratory surgery to me).
Hyundai TSBs indicate numerous Power Train issues, including TSB 195729 reprogramming shifting. The clunk will happen two or three times on take off and sometimes when accelerating from about 30 mph. The transmission does not seem to slip. Power is good. Acceleration is good. Shifting to selectronic works well.
Some forums have indicated similar sounds coming from the axels or bushings.
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I drive a Sante fe 2002 V6 24V front wheel drive. The issue is that the car will not start after it gets filled up with gas unless I press and old the gas pedal, any other times the car starts with no issues. It was suggested that I change the gas cap which I did and no change, I tried living the cap loose but the the engine wouldn't shut off even with the keys out of the ignition and in my hand had to stall it in order for it to shut off. I purchased a ODB2 plugged it in and no codes appeared.
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