Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 - Heat / AC Vent Location Won't Switch
Jul 9, 2016
My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem where the heater & A/C work fine, the fan is blowing a lot of air but it will not switch between the defrost, heat & floor locations. Right now about 90% of the air is blowing out on the floor(freezing my feet with A/C) while about 5% comes out of the dash vents and 5% out of the windshield vents. No amount of adjusting will change these. I've changed the cabin air filter which didn't work and have ruled out the fan as it sounds great and pushing a lot of air out at the lower vent.
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I cant find the location of the Turn signal relay, its not in the Relay box under the hood nor is it on the fuse panel under the dash, i'm planning on installing LED blinkers and i want to switch out the relay to a LED compatible one, where it is?
2008 Santa Fe GLS ....
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Engine light came on a week ago, finally made it in to get the code pulled yesterday : P0441
From reading on this site, thinking its a faulty purge valve.
I have found pics of its location on an 04, but cant seem to find it on my 08 2.7L.
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Looking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
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Getting OBD code P2422...Evaporative Emission Vent Valve stuck closed?? Had it once went to dealer they inspected...Happened again and they said they will replace a valve and possible the canister....I own a 2011 Santa Fe SE 3.5.......4000miles
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When first starting a 2012 Sante Fe GLS with standard AC each morning, the vents blow warm for up to 3-5 minutes and therafter are fine. Additional starts for the remainder of the day seem fine. We live in a hot climate, but our 2011 Sonata, which is parked in the same garage, does not have this problem. No unusual soundsor lack of air circulation, and after 5 minutes it spontaneously starts to blow cool air. Problem began 2 months after purchase.
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I find that my 2010 V6 is always cold in the winter. I always need to turn the temperature control to the highest, but there is still not enough heat. This morning, it was -11c outside. After I drove 10 KM (about 20 minutes) , inside the car is still very cold. My feet were frozen. The air from the vent is only warm, not hot. I also find that this car takes longer to warm up. The temperature gauge won't start to move until I drive about 2.5KM.
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My 2009 santa fe with the 2.7 has a check engine light. p2422 evap vent solenoid stuck closed. I replaced the charcoal canister and the light came back on. I replace the solenoid by the throttle body and the light came back on but took longer to set. My wife said that she was having problems filling the tank but when I changed the second solenoid the problem was gone but the light had returned.
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I am trying to replace the coolant temperature sensor for the electric fan on a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 3.3 engine but can't find it on the engine.
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I took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe that will only produce heat on the driver side of the vehicle. It does not have dual climate control. So I changed out the heat control actuator and it did not work. I manually moved the lever and still nothing. The air will go from all sections perfectly.
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I have a 09 santa fe and it just started doing this. when we start it and let it warm up it will get the normal temp and will blow hot air but when we start to drive the thermostat goes back down to cold and it will blow cold air. I have had a problem similar to this before and taken it back to the dealership and they replace the same thing over and over. but this time its not fixing itself and it is staying like this. usually it will fix itself.
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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Model is 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
A month ago I started noticing it was sluggish to shift from P to R/D but i had no issues starting in P mode and the car would drive fine. I thought it might due to cold weather so didn't think of it too much.
Two weeks ago it was really hard to shift the gear from P mode and I nearly got stuck in middle of the road unable to shift from R to D. I applied a lot of force on the shifter and it finally budged into D and car drove with no issues. I parked and did my chores came back and the car would not start at all.I put the car in N and it started and was hard to shift back in D but I drove home without any other issues.
It died again in my drive way but this time the gear was nearly impossible to shift and I thought I almost broke it and the panel was not registering it was in P and the key was stuck in the ignition. After messing around for some time I was able to get it into N and put my hand brake on left the key in the ignition and disconnected the battery.
Today I opened the center console & battery tray these are my findings. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position.
1. The shifter moves freely once the linkage is disconnected by removing the tiny pin.
2. The inhibitor switch was slightly misaligned from the N position. Once I manually adjusted it I was able to start the car.
3. I reconnected the linkage pin, make sure the inhibitor switch was in N position and started the car but it was again nearly impossible to switch to P/R/D
4. My brake lights work fine.
5. I was able to remove the key once I completely disconnected the battery.
What can be the issue here ? Inhibitor switch ? The shifter assembly ? Linkage?
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Looking on replacing my Neutral Safety Switch. Shifting the Transmission began to get very hard to do, like the linkage was binding up. Pulled center console, latching mechanism unlocks when i apply the brake, was able to shift with much difficulty into reverse and now i can only get it to shift between reverse and neutral. It is all cable from shifter to transmission and the cable seems fine, no binding there that I can see. Got the nut off the trans linkage but can't get the shift arm to come off the rod and removed the 2 bolts on the safety switch but nothing wants to come apart. Just rusted on? Don't want to use the BFH and break anything.
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Recently started having issues where the master window switch will put other door windows down, but will not put windows back up. Switches at the other doors still work fine both up and down. Started with just passenger rear window, but now all the other windows act the same way. 2010 Limited AWD.
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I bought my hyundai Santafe 2012 in may 2012 and till last month that's in 1st week of January 2013 started giving morning start problem thought may be due to cold winter. i called Hyundai technician and he told me due to fuel problem. he drained out whole fuel from tank and replace with winter grade fuel and it works but from next morning ...
1. I always heard once 'grik' sound when switch the key to On
2. I heard fuel passing sound type which never heard before.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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First time towing a twin axle caravan with the Santa fe. towed 250 miles without any problems but on the final long uphill stretch the esp light came on. When the engine is stopped and re-started it goes out but comes back on within a mile. Also when the caravan is plugged into the electrical socket the indicators flash at normal speed but unplug it and they flash very quickly. I have read a lot on the foot brake switch being a problem and sometimes it causes the esp light to come on.
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97 3.0 2WD, Where is the differential vent or does it even have one? I've got a rear axle seal leaking.
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