Trying hunt down an annoying noise.. clicking from the front end when traveling at 30kph.. no noise under or over that speed.
Under the hood and looking around it seems there is an engine mount (front) with vacuum lines?
What is the purpose of that?
CV's fine, brakes fine etc.. all checked and not the source of the noise.
My 2007 Santa Fe with 48K km developed a clunk in the front end that was most noticeable when traveling under 30 km/h. I made an appointment with West Edmonton Hyundai. This was not the dealer I purchased the vehicle from as I moved to Edmonton after I purchased the vehicle. The dealer had it fixed up within 3 hours....both sway bar end links were worn out. Just wanted to point out the good service I got. The entire bill was covered under the standard vehicle warranty.
View 19 RepliesTruck has 1800kms on her, pretty much brand new but there is an odd clicking noise on the front drivers side wheel when I adjust the steering from left to right and vice versa. Its quiet if I am going straight, but it sounds like there is a linkage loose. Its not too loud or noisy, but having problems with tierods/knuckle assy?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2008 santa fe limited 3.3 awd with about 170000 km on it. Lately when I brake I've been hearing a clicking noise coming from what sounds like the driver side front wheel area.
Had it in to my mechanic who checked the brakes and said that pads/calipers/rotors were all fine. They replaced the passenger side front bearing on the lower control arm a few weeks ago and said there is no play or noise coming from any other suspension components.
Where to look next? My mechanic isn't sure what it is so I was going to take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. Also had new tires installed about a month ago
I have run in to this a few times over the years with different cars. Don't think it is the Gas Stations Pumps. When I try to fill up gas....it clicks off, like it is full but no were near full.
View 11 RepliesWhat is probably a common Santa Fe issue. I have a 2005 V6 2.7L model which has traveled 81,000 miles (131,000km). The power steering is and has been working fine, but over recent week has developed 2 symptoms :
a) The reservoir overflows (see pic)
b) There is a whining noise when the vehicle is traveling and when turning the sounds modifies to more of pressure-release type sound. When the vehicle is stationary, the noise is very evident when turning the steering wheel (See video here : Power steering noise - YouTube )
Other things to report are that the reservoir is full but has not needed a top-up for months. The power steering pump appears to be leak free. I have a slow drip from the rack & opinion area (detected at Hyundai first service - about a few drips per day and they decided it didn't warrant fixing)
I have read on this forum the issue may be related to the reservoir filter becoming blocked and this ties in with the fact the rack and pinion has a known drip leak, but I never need to top-up the reservoir.
My 2007 Hyundia Santa Fe has an erratic knocking/clicking sound when idling & has for about 6 months or so. Other than the clicking noise it drives just fine. I am wondering if this may be a result of a bad oil change experience I had in 2012. I'll explain ....
When driving home, once the car had warmed up, my oil pressure warning light came on whenever I came to a stop or idling. I thought this was strange but thought maybe it had to do with new oil fill & would go away.
All I knew was I didn't have the problem before the oil change - nor have I ever in all the time I have owned the car - seen the oil pressure light come on and stay on once the car is started. So I brought the car into Hyundai as soon as I could to explain the situation. They opened the oil filter compartment and quickly realized that whoever changed the filter neglected to put back a part that sits on top of the filter that regulates the oil pressure (only a $15 part without which the damage & cost of driving without is potentially huge).
There is more, but I think you get the drift. So, I am wondering if possible damage as a result of that faulty oil change might have something to do with my current problem or is it not possible given the time/km between when that happened and now? The car had just over 80,000 km at the time and currently has aprox 105,000. I have properly maintained the oil etc since that as well as prior to.
Power door locks are supposed to activate when the vehicle accelerates to a certain speed from starting the car but mine suddenly started clicking 4 times on-off-on-off every time the vehicle accelerates from every stop or near stop. It's been doing this for 2 weeks and is getting annoying in stop and go traffic.
I have clicked the lock switch on the driver's door to ensure that it works and is not stuck but not sure what else to check. I also made sure that all doors are closed correctly and no ice or snow in them.
2010 SantaFe w AWD
Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
View 3 RepliesThis weekend I noticed that my 2009 Sante Fe has developed 3 distinctive clicking sounds when I'm driving into a turn. It seems to be coming from the front end of the car.
To expand on this further, if I'm at a complete stop/or a slow roll and I give it gas and turn either left or right, I can get the car to make 3 clicks sounds.
Today, it seems that these clicks are more frequent and louder.
What this could be? Either way, I'm going to schedule an appointment at my dealership.
Our 2010 Santa Fe SE V6 just developed a problem where when we turned the key, the car wouldn't start, and there was a loud clicking sound during start attempt. Battery tested 100% OK.
This often points to a starter problem, but a telling symptom was than the headlights would dim, almost going out, along with the dash lights and most any other lamp. If it was just the starter, unless dead short, this associated dimming would not happen. I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched battery voltage during cranking attempt, and the voltage showed minimal drop, so once again the battery was not the problem.
Traced the problem to the ground strap from the battery which terminates to the driver side front wheel well. Two bolts hold the strap to the wheel well, and they are oxide coated and the contact point on the wheel well is painted. This means all the current returning to the battery is essentially passing through the bolt threads and cap where the oxide has been scratched enough to be conductive.
I sanded underside of the bolt heads to remove oxide, sanded the ground strap itself which seemed to have some sort of clear coating, and sanded the paint away from the wheel well where the strap makes contact. I didn't have star washers, but if I did they would have been a good addition.
Car now starts with no problem.
I am concerned with the possibility of corrosion under the strap where I sanded away the paint, but will monitor this. I think the contact between the strap and fender wall is tight enough with the two screws to seal out moisture and oxygen.
I am also going to locate and check any other chassis to engine ground straps so I don't have any new problems in the future.
Just spent 12 hrs in our new 09 SF Ltd listening to a squeak/tick/click coming from driver's side A pillar area, front door jamb, or side window. I suspect - but am nowhere near sure - it's the windshield moving against gasket or molding. Had a similar issue in the Mazda3 I traded.
View 13 RepliesGirl next door has a 2010 Chevy Impala w/31k mi. Has a buzzing noise from LF while traveling. This is not a clunking CV joint, so don't tell me that. Not a wheel bearing, okay.
This occurs while traveling straight at 20 and up. I jacked LF up. Noise very noticeable on left while in forward gear, but not reverse. Noise more audible in cabin than outside. In neutral, spun wheel by hand, no noise. Compared right side, same tests, no noise.
New brakes last year. Brakes look real good as do rotors. Consulted three mechanics, none have ever heard of this before.
I have had this intermittent clicking noise from the front left wheels. It sounds almost like a rock wedged in the tread but its not. I checked and the tire is clean. I inspected as much as I can see but see nothing abnormal. Any clue what the deal is?
I stared having the noise right after having the front left tire replaced and it seems to happen when the brakes are hot. I don't hear it in the morning or if I let the car cool down and drive it an hour or two later. My brakes are original rotors at 74K miles and the pads are probably in the 45K range . Not sure what the deal is but it drives me crazy when I can hear with the windows down ( I live in AZ its still in the 70s). I had an issue like this with my GS350 but cant remember what fixed it or what the issue was .
ok I have a 07 civic with 80k, which I bought used, it seems when i turn the wheel more so to the left at slow speeds like parking or pulling out etc I hear a popping and or clicking noise from the front end it doesnt always happen, but happens enough I took it to my dealer to have everthing checked before a rd trip they told me the boots and all are fine but the joins could be binding, but that its safe to drive and doesnt need to be replaced.
View 7 RepliesI took my car to the dealer last week to repair a clicking noise coming from the juncture of the right front windshield and dash. They said they added felt to the speaker grill and fixed it. NOT SO, still makes the noise, it is better though seems to get better when the weather is warmer. How to get the speaker grill off without damaging it. If so I will try to address the thing myself.
View 14 Replies4450 - Literature Program 09L02: Customer Maintenance Reminder
Some owners of certain F-Super Duty 250/350 4x4 vehicles have experienced severe steering and front wheel vibrations and oscillations after traveling over a bump or dip in the road. As a result of a study with NHTSA regarding shimmy, Ford sent a Customer Maintenance Reminder letter to owners back in March of 2009. In addition, Ford agreed to send reminder letter to owners.
Although there is no service action required by the dealer, customers will be informed if after setting the tire pressures on their truck to the Ford specified levels, they believe the vehicle needs additional service, to contact their local Ford dealer. Letters will be mailed starting the week of 12/09/13 and may result in increased customer service inquiries.
Both front doors continuous clicking and attempting to lock (even though they are already locked) every few seconds while driving. All switches appear to be working normally. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery, I suspect the door lock ecu but can't find it's location. My next resort is to pull the door lock fuse so that I don' t damage the actuators.
View 12 RepliesEvery time I am pressing the brake pedal, I hear a distinct clicking sound coming from passenger front Brake Caliper Area.
I have applied brake grease (green) to the pad shim.
I have replaced the spring sets on each front caliper.
Passenger Brake Clicking Lexus LS460L - YouTube
I have a 2009 AWD Santa Fe with a little over 43K miles. Over the past few months it's developed a knocking noise that is most audible from the front drivers side area. The knocking speeds up or slows according to the car's speed, and appears somewhat louder when the steering wheel is turned. My initial suspicion from my surfing here is either a CV joint or wheel bearing.
I took it to the dealer that sold it to me and am getting increasingly frustrated with their work. The first irritation was yesterday when the service advisor called to say the problem was corroded rear rotors and brake pads; both wear items not covered under warranty. Though skeptical (since I was hearing the noise coming from up front, not from the back) I authorized the $300+ for turning the rotors, replacing brake pads and flushing the brake system.
When I showed up to retrieve the car I was told it'd been test driven and the problem was fixed. I asked the tech specifically whether he'd checked the CV joints and he assured me he had and they were fine. Upon driving away it was immediately obvious the knock was still there. Back to the dealer. I had the tech drive it with me in the passenger seat. He acknowledged he could now heard the knocking, but claimed he previously couldn't hear it over the horrible loud squealing from my rusted rotors; nor had he heard it on his alleged post-fix test drive. The problem with that is I've never heard this claimed horrible loud squealing, nor has my girlfriend, nor have any other regular passengers.
Back at the dealership the situation escalated when the service advisor, in defense of his tech, also claimed the horrible squealing rotors had drowned out any other noises. The problem with that is he admitted he'd not come along on any of the previous claimed test rides, and claimed to have heard the horrible squealing rotors only while the car was in the shop and/or up on the lift while the tech was turning a rear wheel by hand. Err, if the car was not driven any for distance or speed, of course you wouldn't have heard any knocking up front.
Yesterday evening I got a call from the shop advising the problem had now been diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing, front driver's side. I was assured it'd be fixed and ready this afternoon. All well and good. I showed up this afternoon and the service advisor stated the car was just getting buttoned up and we're going to test drive it. Fine, I'd like to come along on the test drive I said. He agreed, asked me to sit in the waiting room. In a few short minutes though - not long enough IMO - he came back out to advise the tech had just test driven the car (without me?!) and the knock is still there.
As of this writing I have no info from them as to what it might be. I left the car with them and asked the service advisor to have the tech(s) double check the CV joints. He got huffy with me and declared that if if the tech said he'd check them, there's no need to do so again. At this point I'm not sure whether I can trust this dealers' service department. I don't think the service advisor is being honest with me - I think he's been caught in a minor fib re: test riding and is compounding the situation by sticking with it.
Sounds like a servo maybe opening a door or flap. Comes on every few minutes. Can make it activate by turning the passenger side temp control.
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