Fault code : P1586 MT/AT codification, no check engine light, the glow light is blinking when I give ignition but if I turn off and turn the ignition on again the light it will go off. What I noticed is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm the engine is hesitating, like not getting enough fuel.
View 8 RepliesMy 2001 F-150 4.6L was hesitating around 1500 RPM and the check engine light was on, dealer said the oxygen sensors needed to be cleaned. Had the work done and the problem still exists, the check engine light intermittently came on. I tried 89 octane fuel and the check engine light is off and the engine runs smoothly. I'm just a weekend mechanic and can do mostly basic stuff but the only time I've come across something like this is when I accidentally put 87 octane in my bike.
View 4 RepliesMy 2007 Ford F150 Lariat (5.4L) with 82k miles popped a P0307 (#7 misfire) code one chilly morning. It began stumbing and hesitating a bit between 25-35mph, and each time it occurred, the engine light would flash on and off. Hesitation clears and light goes steady. Cleared the code and didn't see problems again for a month...until the next cold day (freezing temps). Popped again and hesitation returned. Ford dealer wants to change plugs. I've read coils can also cause the issue. Not sure if I can do either myself.
View 4 RepliesSince of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
View 2 RepliesI have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
View 1 RepliesMy 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
At roughly 140,000 miles, my wife's '07 Santa Fe GLS has thrown a P0456 code. Does this code on a Santa Fe common?
It is "evaporative emission system leak detected (very small leak)." The good news, I guess, is that it is 'very small.' However, being small may make it more difficult to detect.
I've recently bought used Hyundai SantaFe 2007 and the engine check light lit up. I've bought EML327 OBD2 scanner, it showed P1405 meaning "EGR tempereature sensor incorrect". Some of my friends says it has something to do with CPF filter and EGR valve. They think, i should clean both CPF and EGR. Car service told me that DPF (not CPF) filter cleaning costs arround 350eu and one service told me to simply take it out and reprogram car computer. As far as EGR valve cleaning goes, no service wants to do this. I don't really know much about cars, so my main question is what would be my next step in trying to fix this error.
View 3 RepliesMy 2010 Santa Fe is only 2 month old and has 2000km now the check engine light is on. Went to the dealer and found out the code is P200A -Intake manifold runner performance. And they just clear the code. What does this code mean?
View 22 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
Have 2 problems that are giving me major problems.....especially with 100 degree heat in Dallas.
1. Ac stopped blowing cold last night out of blue. Still blows just not cold. Replaced bad fuse and drove for 5 minutes. Blew again. Checked out the control/ circuit board but looks ok. Really cant afford dealer.
2. Check engine light problem for months. Gas gauge wasn't working. Replaced fuel sending units and it fixed that but still light. Code says p441. Dealer said need solenoid valve. Replaced both the solenoid valve and the purge control valve. Still check engine light.
I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2001 Santa Fe. Very recently it began hesitating when put in gear going forward or reverse. Once the gas pedal is pressed, there's a delay of up to 2 seconds as RPM climbs, then the vehicle jerks into gear. It seems to run fine otherwise. Mileage is approx 128 k. Maintained very well by the same mechanic until very recently. Internet searches have gotten answers of use fuel additive, install some computer patch, fix an oxygen sensor, change tranny fluid and flush tranny, rebuild tranny.
View 2 RepliesLike it says, 2007 Ltd. Recently swapped the alternator and changed the fuel sending units. Had a CEL previous for the fuel gauge not working. Fuel gauge works fine now. Had a CEL with no code being thrown? What could it possibly be? I need to get her past smog here soon.
View 10 RepliesI am having problems with my intake manifold tuning valve. My CEL keeps going off reading the code: P0660.
After further inspection, the plastic piece that connects the valve to the front solenoid has cracked. I was able to glue it for a temporary fix, but the dealer says Hyundai only sells the piece with the entire upper surge tank, not just the small plastic piece alone.
New car showing fault code, bought privately no guarantee.... Checked using TORQUE-for android. showing fault code P0204, which is apparently injector or wiring circuit malfunction in cyl 4. Apparently , the injector was replaced when I bought it.... Is this a common fault?
View 22 RepliesCheck engine light is on, when I went to get my car inspected it was showing an invalid vin code. How do get this off so I can get my emissions done?
2007 Santa Fe SE
2007 santa fe Had the engine replaced run very well . Every couple of days i get the PO455 code. Replaced the gas cap. Try to use my sense of smell to find the location of the leak . No odor of gas fumes. Spent an hour trying to find it. Will consider smoke test but wondering if it might be the vapor pressure sensor. Is it at the top of the gas tank, how do i get it it? Its the only code that comes up.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
I am having trouble with my car hesitating when it sits between 1600 and 2000 rpm. My car does a rapid shake that is felt throughout the car. It lasts for 2 seconds and then disappears. It has been happening for a month now and it seems to be increasing in frequency. My husband doesn't believe it is a major problem and that it can wait.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?