Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Losing Power And Hesitant - Idles At 1500 To 2000 Rpm
Apr 29, 2016
I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
View 6 Replies
Since of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
View 2 Replies
2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
View 8 Replies
My 2004 Santa Fe (4cyl) started sputtering and losing power, like it was about to stall out, then all of a sudden it'll regain power and drives fine. When the stuttering happens the check engine light comes on, but then when it regains power, the check engine light goes out. This seems to happen at highway speeds because I can't seem to recreate the issue driving around the neighborhood. I also can't scan for codes because I cannot get the CE light to come on (when I want it to). About 2 years ago I took it to the dealership for similar symptoms, with my car eventually stalling completely out and I couldn't get it to start back up. The problem then was crank shaft position sensor, which I had replaced.
View 2 Replies
My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
View 4 Replies
2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6. I am experiencing an issue of losing power as I travel up an incline and it doesn't matter how much I depress the gas pedal. The codes that I am receiving are P0101, P0174, and P0171. After reviewing the codes and doing some research I'm thinking it is either the mass air flow sensor or the fuel pump, which can tend to fail in vehicles 10 yrs or older depending on vehicle mate Nance (i.e. constantly running the tank down to almost empty).
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
View 5 Replies
We have a 2003 Sante Fe 2.7l that looks like the tranny is losing the clutches. Not ready to give up on it as the engine is still strong even with 176000 miles.
View 9 Replies
Long story short, I have a tire that is losing pressure. In two months it went from 30PSI to 10PSI. I caught the tire right before my trip to Vegas and filled it back up to 32PSI and today it was at 25PSI for a total of 22 days. I figure I am losing around .3PSI a day. Took it into Sams where I bought them and of course they couldn't find a thing wrong with them. Sprayed them with soap and water and dunked them in a trough but no bubbles. They weren't going to do anything, but I talked them into putting a new valve stem on and at least taking the tire off the rim and taking a look. I realize it could be a dynamic problem where it only leaks while the tire is rotating. Is there anything else that I'm not thinking about verses having a leaky rim?
View 3 Replies
This all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
View 7 Replies
Fault code : P1586 MT/AT codification, no check engine light, the glow light is blinking when I give ignition but if I turn off and turn the ignition on again the light it will go off. What I noticed is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm the engine is hesitating, like not getting enough fuel.
View 8 Replies
I replaced a dead battery in my '05 3.5 v6 Santa Fe. Other than the dead battery the car was running fine. After replacing battery, at idle, the RPMs drop below 500 and then go back up to over 1000 and then drops back down to 500-600. It has almost stalled a few times. At the low RPMs it diesels a little. When the RPMs spike the car surges and if I wasn't heavy on the brake, I'm sure I would have rear-ended the car in front of me. No check engine, no codes. Is this normal? I replaced the battery about 4 years ago and don't recall this behavior. If not normal, what is going on and where do I look? Its my wife's car and don't feel safe letting her drive it until this gets resolved.
View 16 Replies
I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD. It's been running rough on occasion for quite a while now, but it's only been an occasional thing. I replaced the front passenger side axle and went for a test drive and the vehicle was barely running. I put the throttle to the floor and it does nothing more than idle. I barely made it home and am afraid to pull it out of the drive. I started it up this morning and it seemed to be idling just fine. I pushed the brake to put it in gear and it started stumbling. When I put it in gear, same thing, pedal not doing hardly anything.
The check engine light did come on and I had a buddy bring down a scanner to check it. I don't know if these are Hyundai specific codes or not, but here's what he pulled: P1110, P2127, P1173, and P1192. I'm thinking throttle position sensor, but am unsure. I've put a lot of time and money into this vehicle lately. I've spent some money and a lot of time trying to figure out why it was showing abs and traction control lights. Turned out to be the exciter ring on the axle was broke.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1999 7.3 with 260k miles. It is all stock with the exception of straight pipe. I got the truck about 8 months ago and have put about 5k miles on it. Have never had any issues with it. I was driving from Dallas to Houston and about 45 minutes into the trip my truck lost power. I was going about 65-70 mph and the service engine line came on and I lost power. It was running rough and was blowing white smoke. I let it sit for a couple minutes and started it back up and ran fine until 30 minutes later. It did this 2 more times on the way to Houston. Oil is good, coolant is good. Not over heating. Threw a code the first time but didn't throw it the other times. I brought it to a mechanic and he thinks it's the Wastegate.
View 14 Replies
The car had been idling a little rough lately and I'd noticed a drop in MPG. After trying a few easy fixes I finally replaced the O2 sensor a few weeks ago. The idle has leveled out but ever since then I've been getting periodic hesitant-to-non-existent acceleration. Sometimes it works just fine (better than it's been in years, actually) but then sometime it will take forever to accelerate from a stop.
I'll give it some gas and it will just roll forward at barely more than an idle for half-a-block until something kicks in and it levels out around 30mph. This doesn't happen consistently though and I can't see much of a pattern in when it happens or why. It seems to work a little if I ease into the gas very gently, and it is worse when I try to gun it. I was worried it might be the fuel injectors or the ignition coils.
View 2 Replies
My 2005 1.6 is losing power now and then when I accelerate. gas mileage is getting worse. I don't want to replace any unnecessary parts. wires and plugs look good.. Codes 300, 301, 302, 303 ..
View 7 Replies
Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
View 7 Replies
I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
View 18 Replies
I have a 2002 accent 1.6.(272,000 miles) It has been having this issue for awhile now. It is very slow to accelerate, seems like it is losing power. Also if I press the gas pedal hard it does not want to shift correctly unless i back off the gas pedal some and then it will shift fine. I have had the transmission checked and it has no issues (transmission has be replaced with only about 80,000 miles on it). Also if i try to run the AC it really looses power. It currently does not have any diag codes when I have it scanned. So far I have replaced spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, and a diode that I was getting a code for. I am just curious if there is something that could be causing the issue that will not report a code.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
View 8 Replies
