Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Sputtering And Losing Power
Dec 5, 2012
My 2004 Santa Fe (4cyl) started sputtering and losing power, like it was about to stall out, then all of a sudden it'll regain power and drives fine. When the stuttering happens the check engine light comes on, but then when it regains power, the check engine light goes out. This seems to happen at highway speeds because I can't seem to recreate the issue driving around the neighborhood. I also can't scan for codes because I cannot get the CE light to come on (when I want it to). About 2 years ago I took it to the dealership for similar symptoms, with my car eventually stalling completely out and I couldn't get it to start back up. The problem then was crank shaft position sensor, which I had replaced.
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
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I have a 2001 chevy venture (254,000 miles) that has me baffled. It has been a great van but it started about a month ago sputtering and bucking and numerous times shutting off. Most times the engine light would NOT come on. It would get the hiccoughs and start bucking like someone learning to drive a stick shift for the first time. Once it sputtered hard enough to throw off the serpentine belt. I put a new timing belt on it last year when I redone the intake manifold gasket. Now its not shutting off but it has only about half the power it should and the engine light is starting to come on more often.
It bogs down and then it will try to go then bog down again. The engine light blinks for about 20 seconds then stops and goes out. When the engine light is on and stays on the code most often says system too lean, and a egr flow insufficient. It does have a vacuum leak in the hose going to the egr. Have ordered that, hasn't come in yet. Gas mileage is horrible. I have done new plugs, fuel filter and cleaned the K&N air filter. Someone suggested the catalytic converter. I dumped in a bottle of 'Cata-cleanse' from Autozone. No difference. A friend of mine had a venture doing the exact same thing. It was in the shop for 6mo with no luck. But his straightened out on its own and is running good now. I really don't feel like waiting 6mo to see if this will straighten out.
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6. I am experiencing an issue of losing power as I travel up an incline and it doesn't matter how much I depress the gas pedal. The codes that I am receiving are P0101, P0174, and P0171. After reviewing the codes and doing some research I'm thinking it is either the mass air flow sensor or the fuel pump, which can tend to fail in vehicles 10 yrs or older depending on vehicle mate Nance (i.e. constantly running the tank down to almost empty).
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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This began occurring after I hosed down my engine with degreaser, stupid me. Car will begin to sputter like it is losing power around 30-40mph, and then it's fine. Rarely it happens around higher speeds with the cruise control on around 65 its just fine and the CEL never came on. Well yesterday i pulled the battery cable for 30 minutes to let things reset, then i got a CEL, code P0030 which I think is an o2 sensor, so i guess it went bad from the water perhaps? What part I need, where it is located and how difficult this would be to do in the driveway?
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
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We have a 2003 Sante Fe 2.7l that looks like the tranny is losing the clutches. Not ready to give up on it as the engine is still strong even with 176000 miles.
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Long story short, I have a tire that is losing pressure. In two months it went from 30PSI to 10PSI. I caught the tire right before my trip to Vegas and filled it back up to 32PSI and today it was at 25PSI for a total of 22 days. I figure I am losing around .3PSI a day. Took it into Sams where I bought them and of course they couldn't find a thing wrong with them. Sprayed them with soap and water and dunked them in a trough but no bubbles. They weren't going to do anything, but I talked them into putting a new valve stem on and at least taking the tire off the rim and taking a look. I realize it could be a dynamic problem where it only leaks while the tire is rotating. Is there anything else that I'm not thinking about verses having a leaky rim?
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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Santa fe 2.7litre 2004 240000km... My santa fe won't start, after check we found no power at the fuel pump. we change pump, we found a bad contact at the remote starter connection. we decide to cut the wires of remote starter. after the car start and ride 1 day, stop with check engine, towing
We take off the remote starter and disconnect all wire of this remote starter. The car start and stop. After that bizarre problem, the park light stay open, and the window can be up and don't with no key in the ignition!!!!
We check fuse relay etc, all wire of the old remote starter and we take off battery and rebuilt the ground. We still have the same problem; when we tried to start at acc, everything seam normal but the wipers run at off position and when we turn the key for starting , wiper stop , radio close.
Like we have a ground problem. We change the ignition little baril now we think the computer is maybe dead. I double check all remote starter wire and every thing seem ok !!!!!
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I have a leak coming from the top of my reservoir from the under the cap for some reason. I bought a new cap and it seem to stop for a day and now it leaking out from under the cap again. What is the reason it would be coming out of there. Am I going to have to replace the reservoir??
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2004 2.4L Hyundai Santa Fe here, died whilst travelling, lost all power and then wouldn't start. Sounds like its trying to turn over.
The fuel cut off seems to have been activated as it clicked when I pushed it but the car still wont start.
I do not have any engine management lights but when connecting the code reader I got P0320, however the code was stored but not present... and still the car will not start. I cleared the code and the code didn't re appear but the car will still not start.
As the code isn't immediately present does this mean the sensor is at fault or do I have other problems?
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I have an issue with my 2004 GLS 3.5 L w/ 68000 miles. After the SUV warms up for a few minutes I can hear a whine or rattle on the passenger side. I noticed a little power steering fluid leaked out the top of the reservoir (a few little bubbles in the oil). Then reading on the HMA website it says the filter in the reservoir can get clogged and restrict the flow. I took the reservoir off and flushed it out then replaced with new oil.
Unfortunately this did not fix the issue the noise is still there. It's most prevalent when you turn but the noise also picks up a little when you hit the gas. I have checked for hose leaks but cannot find one. My next step is to have the steering pump changed out. While the mechanics in there I am going to have him check the hoses/pulleys really close and look around for another leaks anywhere. Noise is annoying but the steering works fine.
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When I bought the car a few weeks ago, there was a p0507 code for a high idle in park, about 1300 RPM, but sometimes shooting up to 3000 when I shifted into park and then dying down. The code goes on and off intermittently. Not that big of a deal at first. Then I started noticing that if I revved it in park it would take forever to die down to 1300, and sometimes would fluctuate around 2000. I also noticed hesitation while accelerating around 1500 RPM and the transmission hunting for gears while accelerating, as well. I noticed my throttle cable was very slack so I tightened that, and bought myself a throttle position sensor, thinking that might be the problem, but didn't install it yet.
I was driving on the freeway yesterday in cruise control and then I started losing power while my foot was on the gas. With my foot on the gas, the throttle would cut out every second. I was basically one second of throttle, one second of no throttle, all the way down the highway. Almost impossible to drive. This continued even after I turned cruise control off. I limped my way to Home Depot and installed my TPS in the parking lot, and drove most of the way home with no issues, although I still noticed a slight hesitation while accelerating. Alas, I tested cruise control again and then the throttle on/off problem started again, then I could barely drive the thing, even after cruise control was off again. I'll be returning the new TPS to Autozone today, since apparently that's not the problem. What's my next move?
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I have a 04 santa fe , which slowly started whining which was diagnosed a power steering pump, when replaced the problem got worse and it became very hard to steer. Steering rack was the next diagnosis, replaced and another new pump. Now its so hard to steer and the whining has returned. Looking in the reservoir the fluid seems to be moving good with no bubbles??
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My '05 Elantra GT has done some weird stuff in the last few days: Losing complete power for a second when pulling out of the driveway two days ago, flickering headlights constantly, complete loss of power while trying to start last night, then suddenly everything started right up. Today, it lost power 2 times in about 10 seconds while I was sitting at a light on the way to work, but the motor never shut all the way off so it just restarted. Today at lunch, I turned the key and everything went dark. I pressed the brake pedal, the dash clock came on and then I was able to start the car. Bad Diode in alternator?
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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I have a 2001 infiniti i30 automatic with about 118000 miles. The car runs and drives fine but every now and then while i am driving it and i push on gas the RPM will go up but the car will not move forward. I noticed that this usually happens when I drive the car a lot. If i turn it off and on it drives normal again. I have had 3 mechanics try to troubleshoot it one recommended to change the MAF which I did and the car ran fine for about 6 months and is starting to do it again. Service engine soon light is on again. What exactly is the issue that's causing it.
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