I have 2009 Sante Fe limited and had experienced a loud pop / power surge while waiting in the car. This pop / surge was a split second where a saw the dash lights and my iPod turn off and on.
Is this something that I should be concerned about? This is the second time that this has happened in the 5 years that I have owned this car. First time happened when I was driving home a couple of years ago.
I have a 2007 santa fe. In the last year or so, when you turn the key to start the car - you get nothing... Like it has no electrical power, no sound, etc. However, it has never lasted more than 1min to an hour it varies. There is nothing you can do about it, just try it a couple of times, come back and try it again. It has never not started eventually. About 95% of the time, it starts within 10 min after you start trying it. However every now and again it is 10 min to an hour or more. Sometimes it goes weeks without doing it (starts the first time) and then you get a string of everyday for weeks.
The dealer can't figure out whats wrong, they need it to stop working completely. I am an engineer and have not been able to find any correlation (cold weather vs hot), not driving it for a while, turning off ac, lights, radio, using a different key. Also, during this time the battery has been periodically tested and has tested out fine.
I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Has about 65k miles on it and has regular maintenance and tune ups when needed. It is cared for. The last tune up was about 2k miles ago. Spark plug change, oil change, filters, etc.
I have noticed lately that when the car is moving at idle speeds, it will surge about 200 rpms. It does not happen when the breaks are on or stopped or in park, or moving at higher speeds. It only does it while moving and with no acceleration. It happens in Drive and Reverse.
I live in the city of Lima Peru so a 4x4 is useful but it also requires some tight parking but when it starts to surge, it is a huge pain.
I'm having issues with my Sante Fe. 6cyl model, 130k-ish miles.
The door lock issue is ongoing and hasn't been more than an inconvenience. When you try and use the power locks, often it doesn't completely lock the front doors. Other times they don't move at all. Sometimes they work fine. It is kind of a crap shoot. So...that is number one. Thought I would add it in while
This week it has developed an RPM surge usually between 2k and 3k rpms. It has happened with the air on and the air off. I tried being gentler on the pedal and that seemed to make it less frequent but I was also driving REALLY slow.
I put the car in manual (auto-stick or whatever it is called) and while it waited until nearly red-line to shift, it did not seem to have the issue. I am pretty sure the car is actually shifting gears which is causing the surge. What is causing it and there are no other issues.
My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L
I purchased this used over a year ago and have had a lot of good luck with is so far..
But yesterday, I opened my Front passenger door and closed it. Opened the rear driver's side door and closed it, lights came on.
I than got into the drivers seat and proceeded to start the car, I had NO POWER. Not even the little red security light was on.
I was at a loss, I got out of the car and opened the Rear door again and not lights, so I closed it.
Got back into the car and it started right up...
I have recently returned to the Lexus family after being away for a couple of years, can't say my time with BMW was enjoyable. I have a 2010 LS 460 and would like to know if it is possible to have a split screen with Navigation and Audio? My Navigation screen appears to be the default, after 30 seconds the audio screen returns to the map.
View 2 RepliesOn light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
View 7 Replies2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
View 4 RepliesGot a weird problem with my 2008 2500HD 6.0L silverado. The problem is more noticeable within the first few miles That I am driving it. The cluster will basically power out for a split second & come back on. I notice it from the sound of the stepper motors all dropping off, then all the indicator lights illuminate & the gauges go back to the normal readings.
After this power cycle,the airbag light will be lit, & I will have to unbuckle, & rebuckle. then the airbag light will go out. I have a feeling if this isn't a common issue, its going to be a tough one to find seeing it happens so intermittently.
I have a 2007 LS460 L. It has recently started losing electrical power in fraction of a second intervals. The map data sometimes works or displays an error on the screen. The radio has been functioning but now is also starting to flash off intermittently. Now when this happens it feels like the engine dies and ALL electrical is off and then power resumes. This affects steering, engine power and brakes. My wife drives this car and loved it until now.
View 6 RepliesWell I've had her just 1 week, used, and today I turned it on and the power is out on the A/C n Heater /Fan Control ASSY. It worked the last 900 miles from FL to OH. And today worked this morning, but 2nd time I got in the truck today there was No Lights in the Air Control Assy. I didn't get an Owners Manual, so what fuse to check.
View 3 RepliesI just passed 3k miles on the OD. Lately, when I'm driving, I'll randomly feel the engine lose power for a split second. It just cuts out and then comes right back. Sometimes it's fairly quick, others it's very noticeable. I buy fuel from good gas stations, and the dealership couldn't find anything and also said they'd never heard of this issue.
View 19 RepliesI drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
I installed a brand new "A line" 007 last night. Now I have ridiculous boost surge (15psi then to 5psi, then holds 11 hard) I did a N75 race valve last year (ECS), so I have my doubts that it is the N75. So what gives? The car wasnt that bad with a blown stock DV compared to this. I have minor mods: CAI, exhaust, Forge TIP, APR stage 1.
View 24 RepliesThe title pretty much explains it. Coming home today started hearing a squeal/whistle while at highway speed - almost sounds like the brake wear indicator tabs that GM is so fond of. Thought it might be the brakes, but it didn't stop with brake application and continued after coming to a full stop. Also, surging at idle, which seems to be reduced when the A/C compressor is on. The squeal happens both with and without A/C.
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
View 3 RepliesI Have A 2013 F250 I Have A H&S On It. I Have It Delete. And The Cel Comes On In The Morning, Ill Get The Code In The Morning. But It Has Something To Do With Coolant Temp Sensor. It Also Does Like A Bucking/Power Surge. Boost Goes From 0-10-15 ,When you Hold Pedal Steady. Do I Need To Update My H&S Or What?
View 14 RepliesI have 01 F550 6spd 4x4. sounds rhythmic, smooth at idle but just over 1200 is a pattern surge but doesn't sound like one cylinder, cel is off, ICP and pigtail changed as it was leaking , no change. From what I've read duty on ICP and IPR should be about same % I've included the codes I've gotten, I have the epc disconnected right now as I thought it was a wastegate issue, checking the ICP plug next,anything I've missed? It had a cyl 8 contribution at idle which I hear is common? Will changing CPS work with that one? Think it's a grey one. There's no water in bowl I replaced filter, since replaced ICP, pigtail, and bleeding fuel bowl and new filter the codes are gone but still misses, will be checking uvch, injector buzz test showed no faults. Old diesel guy said to flood with Stanadyne fuel treat?
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