I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
View 5 RepliesI've had a few problems lately with water leaking into the vehicle. The second row passenger side seatbelt is getting soaked, and water can be seen dripping out of the small slot in the wall panel that the seatbelt comes out of. Of course, it all makes its way down to the floor, which gets soaked.
Luckily, I've got third row seating, so the second row passenger side seat flips up and I can get access to the floor and soak up the water with towels.
The leaking only seems to occur when the vehicle is parked with the front pointing uphill (even on very minor grades). I've tried, unsuccessfully, to replicate the problem with a hose, but I only have a level area to test in, and don't have any service ramps to get the front elevated.
From reading various posts on here, and elsewhere, it seems that there are a few possibilities:
- The "dam" that surrounds the sunroof to collect water and send it to the drains is overflowing and water is getting into the wall of the vehicle.
- The sun roof drains are plugged, which may be contributing to the dam overflowing
- The sun roof drain tube has become disconnected inside the roof or wall
Can the rear drain tubes are routed down the "B" or "C" pillar? Depending where they go, I may be able to eliminate a disconnected tube as the problem. I've also read that there was a service bulletin related to increasing the height of the dam, but haven't determined yet if it applies to my vehicle.
My 2012 Santa fe crdi2.2 has 150000km. At the speed of 90km/H and faster there is a vibration coming from the back (passenger side I think).
There is no play on that wheel when it’s in the air, but it doesn’t turn smoothly. It turns smoothly until a point where there is obviously friction, once past that point it turns smoothly again for 3 quarters of the way until it reaches the same point…
The back wheel on the passenger’s side is the same story. Although the vibrations seem to come mainly from the driver’s side (at the back). Is this a wheel bearings problem or can it be something else?
I put a winter wheel at the back (driver’s side) to see if the problem was caused by the wheel. There is less vibration when driving, but it also starts at 90km/H. This winter tyre is higher, so probably it absorbs the vibrations better.
It's not a 4x4.
This seems to happen only when the AC is on. Originates somewhere towards the back of the wheel well.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. Today I briefly turned the heat on since the outdoor temp was cool. Later in the day, I resumed the A/C AUTO setting at 72 for BOTH sides of upper vent outlets. I soon noticed that the driver's side blows warm air and the passenger side blows cold air as it should. No amount of adjusting the temp control either up or down had any effect on the driver's side except for constant warm air. Now I know the passenger side can be adjusted separately but both sides were set for the same temp. Never had this happen before. Always before, if I wanted warm air, the warm air would come through the floor outlets. What's causing warm air to come out the top driver's side vents when it should be cold? Could a diverter door be stuck?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 hyundai Santa Fe GLS. When the AC is on the drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side cold air. Both actuators are working driver side and passenger side. I watched them engage as I changed air flow and temp. What I should look at next? Also, the rear ac button light will not come on and it blows hot as well.
View 3 RepliesI am headed to the dealer under warranty but still want to know. I have at least one oil leak and maybe several on my 2010 s. Passenger side rear of engine. Maybe minor seep at the chain tensioner but I think I have several below that. What are the two sensors below the tensioner? Are there leak issues on the engine? Car has 50K and is under certified warranty.
View 3 Replies2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
I've had my car less than 3 weeks and the past two days I woke up in the morning and found my windows to be wet with condensation inside. I felt my rear passenger floor liners and mats and they are soaking wet. It had rained a lot in the beginning of the week. What could it be?? Santa Fe 2013 2.0T ...
View 12 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L. Water has begun leaking into the rear cargo area when it rains. It was raining today so I went out to look and the water is coming in through the rear cargo light. None of the headliner is wet. My guess is the water is coming in around the rear hatch seal but I can't find any area where it could get in.
View 4 RepliesNever seen this problem before. Thought I had a leak in the system and had to have it serviced. The AC did not seam to be blowing cold. It would take forever to cool off. Was trying to get as much air on me as possible so I decided to point the passenger side vents towards the drivers side to cool off in the mean time. I noticed the passenger side was cold. Air is blowing out of the drivers side but not cold like the passenger side.
View 2 RepliesOur 2010 AWD RX350 developed a rear differential oil leak (passenger side) at the drive shaft lip seal. Has 80,000.
View 5 Replies2002 Camry 4 cyl was leaking a small bit of oil on the rear passenger side of the valve cover - about directly behind where the timing chain is. I replaced the valve cover today, but noticed that there is still a small amount of oil leaking at the same spot. Is this a common problem with the '02 Camry? Or perhaps I have a valve cover problem?
View 2 RepliesA few weeks ago my passenger side low-beam failed to come on during a short road trip. After a failed attempt to find a replacement at 9PM I had no choice but to continue on my way, about an hour later, as I was driving along, it suddenly came back on with no trouble since. I haven't touched any wires or fuses.
View 3 RepliesMy santa fe was pulling to the passenger side and i got it aligned again at shop but after that was done its still pulling to the right side. What could be a cause of that? it only has 17 000 km.
View 10 RepliesSo I was driving yesterday and my roof was still covered in snow. Came to a stop sign on a hill and all the snow from the roof decided to come off all at once onto my windshield. I turned the wipers on and only 1 wiper moved so I turned them off and then had to get out and clean all the snow off. Now my passenger side wiper arm doesn't move or moves randomly but not in sync with the other at all. If I lift the wiper arm up so the blade is in the air the arm moves no problem but the second I put the blade down it acts up again. It doesn't look bent or anything but it is loose and wobbly as in I can move the arm up and down where the drive side one seems pretty firm. How I can even take off the arm in the first place to look at it?
View 13 RepliesI have a '96 Windstar, 3.8L base model.
I've notice a bumping around, rattle type noise in the wheel well or below the adjacent floor at the right rear tire. I'm still looking into the cause at this point.
The "tracking bar" was replaced last year, and is firm and tight. The rear exhaust pipe was also replaced last year, and I've checked that it might be "tapping" on the body of the van by checking it's range of movement.
The shocks are relatively new (<50,000 miles)...
Got home from work last night, passengers side rear wheel was smoking, and damn hot to the touch. Drivers side rear was hot, but not as bad as passenger's side.
My first thought was worst case sceneries - wheel bearings. After getting it in the air, in neutral, I can turn the wheels, but, it takes a lot of effort. There's no grinding noises, but, it sounds like a brake is in constant contact.
I'm in the process of taking both wheels off, but, I'm leaning towards either the brakes/calipers or the ebrake dragging. It definitely smells like hot brakes, and not diff fluid.
I have a relatively decent standard of DIY mechanics, but I have never worked on a Hyundai before.
I have a leak coming down the drivers side rear shock absorber (the bit that bolts onto the swing arm) this has obviously resulted the the rear of the car riding low, but, is there something I can take apart and replace or do you have to replace the whole thing.
it seems likely that it could just be a seal broken somewhere.
I have a 2001 Screw 4x4 that had a bad valve on the passenger side. I got the head rebuilt and put it all back together. Now it has a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the engine. I thought it was the valve cover gasket but when I took it off the gasket was right where it's supposed to be. I pulled the starter and it seems to be leaking out of the new head gasket. What could I have done wrong? The thing runs perfect now but it's dripping oil like crazy so I had to have done something wrong. I used an OEM head gasket from the dealer and torqued the new head bolts to 30 ft-lbs and then went another 90 turn twice just like the book said.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1990 F-150 w/351 that I knew had a coolant leak at the back of the engine when I bought. It's a tinker around truck, something for me to play with.
I've traced the leak back to a metal tube/pipe that sticks out of the engine compartment just below the AC housing. I cannot find anything in the Haynes manual or a diagram on the intertron that shows what this is and if it should have a hose on it or...?