Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Leak Coming Down Driver Side Rear Shock Absorber
Sep 10, 2014
I have a relatively decent standard of DIY mechanics, but I have never worked on a Hyundai before.
I have a leak coming down the drivers side rear shock absorber (the bit that bolts onto the swing arm) this has obviously resulted the the rear of the car riding low, but, is there something I can take apart and replace or do you have to replace the whole thing.
it seems likely that it could just be a seal broken somewhere.
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Yesterday evening my wife was following me down the road for a few hours, we are moving some stuff between houses. After 20 minutes she called me and said she could see occasional sparks under the truck,
Sparks?
A side of the road discussion determined she was seeing sparks near the drivers side rear shock absorber. I looked closely at that area and could not see anything that looked burnt. I felt the shock, axle tube, brake, brake line and E brake cable, but nothing was hot.
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I noticed a pool of very clear oil on my garage floor. Looking under the truck I can see the lower control arm on the front drivers side covered in fresh oil. It looks like it's the shock absorber leaking. I just rolled over the 4,000 mile mark. I'm dreading taking it in to my nearby dealer. This is most likely a week long fix with how they operate. 2014 FX2...
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Took it in for an oil change at 90k miles dealer reported a leaking rear right strut and quoted over 1000k for replacement which i obviously declined. Now wanna know what are my options can I change just the one rear side which is leaking and do I have to put the oem or can I put anything aftermarket.
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So, in changing a rotor today, I noticed the entire top bolt of my shock absorber (rear left) was sheared in half. I researched replacements and saw the staggering price tag. In 8 years with this car (2003 Gx470) I've never once changed the shock mode from sport to comfort or vice versa. Am I correct in assuming that I can by a decent aftermarket shock as a replacement and not hook up the electronics and only lose the ability to adjust the shock from the cabin? I will still retain the ability to raise or lower the car, correct? If so, what is a decent and affordable shock to purchase? Also, while I am in there, are there any recommended bushings or other things to replace to cut down on squeaking and other noises?
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Just came back from a ride and since it's getting pretty warm here I decided to drive with open windows. At low speed I noticed a unusual squeak coming from the rear passenger wheel when I got over small potholes. This part of the car seems to shake really fast a few time before settling. I can also hear a drum like vibration in the car coming from that corner. I can feel an unusual bounce which take time to settle when it happen. I'm no expert but from what I read the usual suspect should be either a defective shock of broken control arm ? I'll get a nearby garage to take a look next week. Gotta admit, like some members pointed out, I'm surprised to see those kind of issues on a car which didn't even broke the 45000 miles mark yet... And that's for a car that I take really good care of and not used as a daily driver.
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What is the size of the bolts on the rear axle that hold the shock absorber? I believe its an M12 x70 mm long??
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I found out the rear driver's side shock was leaking oil after I jacked up the car to take a look at exhaust options for the car. 3 of the 4 shock are clean and show no signs of oil.
Is this a defective shock or a pothole destroyed it?
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My driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
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I have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
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My '03 3.5 has the driver side rear brake piston stuck. Tried the C clamp but no movement. Short of replacing the entire caliper...
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My daughters 02 santa fe's driver rear door will not open. The power door Can't figure out how to get it open so I can take the door panel off to find out what is wrong?
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I purchased this vehicle brand new this is the first real issue besides the poor paint quality. Ilove my Santa Fe! how can I fix this??
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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I have a leak in one rear shock and the pads need replacing. Local NTW says they are certified mechanics and work on GX's. Dealer is so darn expensive I'm trying to find an alternative. I'm looking to see if others feel good with going outside the dealer when they can not do it themselves. 2004 GX470 ...
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I have been noticing some kind of a oil/water mix wet spot on the floor every where i park. It looks like some thing is leaking near rear passenger wheel, close to struts. I have a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE with 19K miles....
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I have recently brought a new used car. In oz. I've noticed a small leak coming from a pipe under the car near the right side, I believe this is the power steering pipe. Any diagrams or links to see where each pipe goes as hard to follow. I have a picture but unable to upload here.
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Every time I get out on the driver side and close the door I get a big shock. It's strong enough to make me scared to touch the door. Now I close the door by pushing on the window. How to fix it?
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Notice a leak at the bottom of the Line coming out of the reservoir and turning under at the bottom of the radiator... Not sure at this point whether this is the suction return or supply , probably return, from the looks of the spring clamps used.
It appears that some steel line is used to make a 2 ft or so loop under the radiator before it goes back to the rack.... Cooling??
This line app. 3/8 " in diamater is supported by some rubber isolators, and no doubt there is some rust which has formed in there where the line passes through the rubber, small pinhole maybe??
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I recently broke my rear shock mount plate, it is rusted to crap. So I need to fix it, I was gonna weld it but there isn't enough metal to weld. It looks like it can bolt in bolt out. I am having trouble find a replacement.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
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