2007 Santa Fe just broke the rear wiper arm while trying to replace the blade. Went to rockauto.com to get replacement arm but they don't list one for the Santa Fe but do for the Tucson. My question is will the Tucson arm work on the Santa Fe?
View 1 RepliesSo I was driving yesterday and my roof was still covered in snow. Came to a stop sign on a hill and all the snow from the roof decided to come off all at once onto my windshield. I turned the wipers on and only 1 wiper moved so I turned them off and then had to get out and clean all the snow off. Now my passenger side wiper arm doesn't move or moves randomly but not in sync with the other at all. If I lift the wiper arm up so the blade is in the air the arm moves no problem but the second I put the blade down it acts up again. It doesn't look bent or anything but it is loose and wobbly as in I can move the arm up and down where the drive side one seems pretty firm. How I can even take off the arm in the first place to look at it?
View 13 RepliesI just noticed today that the piece that connects the rear wiper to the window is rusting. It is only 1.5 years old, so seems odd to be rusting already. I'll be taking it in for an oil change soon, so will get it looked at and see what they say.
View 18 RepliesThe rear wiper on one of my two 2004 Santa Fe has stopped working. Checked that the fuses are OK.
Then I swapped the wiper motor and then the control unit to the other Santa Fe & both work in it so are OK.
What else could be causing the problem?
I have a 2003 hyundai santa fe 2.7 V6, the problem i am facing is i want to fix my rear wiper as it is not working, I order a new rear wiper motor as my old rear wiper motor was completely rusted, so i got a brand new one with a new wiper now the problem is it still does not work, i checked the fuse as well but it still is not working.
the only last option i can think of is rear wiper control module, how do i check that or does any one has any clue how to fix the rear wiper as mine is not working at all.
I have a 2007 Santa Fe & in the past every time the temp got below 32 my windshield wiper fluid would not come out. We put in the fluid that does not freeze. I brought it in and they just told me the nozzle had debris in it and nothing else was wrong. Next week same thing. Now when I go to put the fluid on the front windshield all I get is the wipers running & no fluid and at the same time the back wipers come on, but no fluid, which never happened before. Back wipers are separate from the front.
View 7 RepliesI changed the motor, switch and checked relay and still can not find out why wipers stopped working on high mode.
View 1 Replies2012 Santa Fe 3.5 limited w/ nav. Suv is 3 weeks old I turn on the nav today and a pixel was red I'm guessing it's a broken pixel? I turned it on and off for a bit, changed channel and played around. It's dead center upper screen. What would you do? I really don't want my dash ripped apart but if it's going to get worse... And it's not perfect and I do have OCD with my vehicle.
View 11 RepliesI searched. Just bought a 2007 wagon. Never checked the rear wiper and now don't see any switch.
View 5 RepliesIt happened while I was putting back the radiator drain plug. The head of the drain plug broke. I used the easy out tool to extract the screw. I managed to make a hole in the screw but was not able to pull it out. The drain plug got spread on the radiator thread instead. I tried to pull it with a thin screwdriver. I managed to broke half of it and take the small pieces out. Unfortunately, when it was almost out, it jumped up inside the radiator...
I have unsuccessfully tried a vacuum to suck it out. What are my option at this point? Could I just leave it there or I must take it out somehow?
I've got a MkV R32, and I had an '07 GTI before it. I never had this problem with my GTI, but with the R32, the rear wiper jet had become clogged, and then started moving from it's 12 o'clock position to 9 o'clock with the wiper arm when in use.
I replaced the jet last week, which seemed to solve part of the clog issue, but the jet/nozzle, still moves. I am going to try popping the rear hatch cover off today to try and see what if there's an issue there, (I suspect there is, as I have washer fluid leaking through the hatch latch still, MkV R32.
I suspect there is a buildup of residue on something that it dragging on the new nozzle. I don't want to mess something up....
I don't know how to turn on rear wiper on my lexus rx350 2007.
View 1 RepliesNew to this forum as I just inherited my father's 2007 Prius. The rear wiper is not oriented correctly as I see other Prius's with the rear wiper arm facing upwards and mine is horizontal. When I use the rear wiper it goes down and across the rear hatchback area. I tried to gently move the wiper arm to vertical but it would not budge. Looks like I will have to get access to where the arm is secured so I can re-orient it. This tricky?
View 6 RepliesFor some months, I've heard squeaking noise from passenger side suspension. Sound like it's from shock & spring on bump road.
This video sound is very similar : Squeaking Noise, Front Driver Side - YouTube ...
I looked at my suspension. and found rubber bushing is broken. Driver's side bushing is normal.
Is this noise related to the broken bushing?
Is it easy to replace the rubber by myself?
A guy said ATP AT-205 reseal will fix this noise in Youtube video. Is it true?
How To Fix Squeaks In Your Car - YouTube ....
I have a broken rear strut on my 2009 LS 460 with 27000 miles. First noticed it about 25000 but dealer said it was only the cold weather and all was fine. I had a mechanic friend ride with me and he said I had a broken part in the rear suspension. Back to the dealer and this time they test drove it and diagnosed the broken rear strut. The tech told me that they had recently seen several LS 460's with the same problem. The broken strut causes handling problems and I am reluctant to drive at highway speeds.
The dealer (and all the other dealers I called) said that there are no parts available for the repair and one told me that the last strut had to be brought from Japan.
Ok , so now my sun shade is broken and set at 80% open. It will not move at all. 07 GS350. It was fun while it lasted.
Oh wait and my rear-view mirror has a bunch of black inside the mirror.
I will probably have a bunch of stuff for sale soon. BC-R coils with Swift springs , AC front lip, Rear ISF difuser, Lexus Japan Visors and some mods.
I was filling my wiper fluid reservoir and could not fill it to the top. After going throiugh a full bottle of fluid, I noticed it was spilling from underneath the car. I assumed it was an overflow, but later realized that this would make no sense as windshield fluid doesn't freeze, at least not for most of the world, and needs nowhere to expand to.
Now I have to start pulling pieces off the car to see if the tank is broken. I'm guessing I'll need a service manual to find the best way to get to it. If it is broken, how the heck would it have happened? I've only had the car for a few months, so I don't know its history. No accidents though.
2007 Santa Fe about 90k miles - Automatic transmission ... Before suggesting stuck caliper / emergency brake hear me out:
Last year, I am driving around and my passenger side rear wheel is getting hot. Infrared thermometer shows up to 600 degF on the rotor after about 30 minute ride.
Took the wheel off, and I could not move it. Upon recommendation, I bought a new caliper, took the wheel off, took the old caliper off, but the wheel would still not move with the brakes off. I never installed the new caliper knowing it is not what is holding wheel.
Took it to the shop. They took off the rotor, found a groove inside, so said the e-brake shoe is getting stuck. I paid for the new rotor, took it from the shop and the problem was still there. Wheel getting hot. Took it back, and they suggested to buy e-brake hardware. I did, and reinstalled the e-brake assembly myself. The wheel was still getting hot, but only after I used the e-brake. So I took the wheel apart, released the brake an it seemed to 'fix' the problem. So I decided to not use the e-brake at all. Winter went by, I accidentally used the e-brake couple times, but it did not seem to make the wheel hot. So far so good.
Now is June and about 2 weeks ago I started to sense the wheel getting hot again. Now, this time this may have nothing to do with the previous time, but who knows. The temperatures are again up to 600 degF when driving about 45 mph for about 20 minutes.
I took the jacked up the car and tried to spin the wheel and the wheel spins freely. What the heck. I asked my daughter to apply brakes. The wheel can't be moved. When the brakes are released the wheel spins freely. No friction at all. Both inner and outer pads are thinner on this wheel then the opposite wheel, as all of them were replaced 6 months ago. So definitely higher friction. But why. Caliper nicely moved and releases. I took it off and tried it and it worked fine. Brakes nicely engage and release the rotor during the test when car was jacked up. I bought infrared camera to find source of heat, which is proving to be the pads. See pics below.
So what is going on? Why would the wheel free spin and jacked up showing no friction. Why would the brake nicely release the rotor when car jacked up but then cause big friction when car is running?
I have a 2007 Santa Fe and the rear hatch wont open. When I pull on the handle it doesn't seam to click or engage with anything. I'm in a remote area and would like to try and fix this myself.
View 1 RepliesAs long as we are mentioning things, the trim/gasket around my rear doors on my 08 Santa Fe does not fit right. You can see it in the attached photo. The gasket is one piece, and there is no way to arrange the slack so that there is not a gap. Maybe someone used the wrong one at the factory, or is this a common/known problem? I'll ask about it the next time I'm in the dealer.
View 18 RepliesI had this item of concern as a response to another thread but I thought I'd open up a new thread and see if I could get any more attention.
I bought a used GLS and upon initial drives I have noticed a high speed vibration that seems to come from the rear (I don't feel any in the steering). In the colder weather recently I've noticed a pronounced vibration at a lower speed (just before shift points). between 2nd and 3rd. This seems to be worse with short drives or in morning.
Vibration seems to be worse just after a tighter right turns or even some left turns. I notice the most vibration right around 25mph. I also get it with moderate acceleration into a certain torque range. Like driving at 45 and accelerating up to 60. What is going on? It seems like it is linked to acceleration (torque) and possible pressure from turns. CV joint / axle? Wheel bearing? It seems like a tire would be worse as speed increased and more consistent.