Suddenly, I cant open the rear hatch on my Santa Fe Highlander. It seems to be electrical actuated. Anyway it is stuck shut. Key fob, nothing seems to allow it to open.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Santa Fe, I closed my ashtray the other day and now it won't open!!! It has change in it and I expect a coin has jammed it. The door will push in a little just like it normally would to open it but it won't pop open.
View 14 RepliesThis really ticked me off big time today, whatever I do the gas cap won't open when I tried to at the gas station. Before I noticed that I would have to try this a couple of times before it will open, but today, it just won't open at all.
View 10 RepliesI have myself a hatch stuck shut on my wagon. Wont open with the button and the key doesn't turn. The key fob was actually broken when I bought the car leading me to believe it happened while he tried to unlock the stuck hatch.
View 3 RepliesWith the doors unlocked, I can hear the lock mechanism moving when I press the door release button. The hatch stays shut.
The hatch also doesn't open from the inside, using that recessed slider thingy.
So the electrics seems OK, but the mechanical part of it isn't working properly. It was working perfectly the day before.
I have a 2007 Santa Fe and the rear hatch wont open. When I pull on the handle it doesn't seam to click or engage with anything. I'm in a remote area and would like to try and fix this myself.
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 Santa Fe Back Hatch Door will not open. I have removed the inside panel & all the linkage seems to work OK. But the main latch will not let go & I cannot see where to trip it. How I can get it opened, just can't see where to trip it but believe it can be done from inside.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Passat with a trunk that has been stuck shut for over a year. Three different repair men have tried to fix it but they can't get into the trunk since it is locked shut - they also cannot remove back seat to get into the trunk. One wanted to cut a hole into the car behind my license plate to get into it! I can hear the motor that usually releases the trunk but it doesn't open by the key or the switch.
View 8 RepliesThe drivers side rear door on our 2004 T'reg is stuck shut. Neither the interior or exterior door handle will open the door. I tried locking/unlocking it a few times, both with the remote and with the interior button. Is this a simple fix, or is it off to the dealership with me?
View 2 RepliesOur SFS LTD started this high pitch constant squeaking sound in the back of the hatch/cabin. We can't figure out where it's coming from. It doesn't seem to have any relation to the suspension (going over big bumps), and occurs on regular driving on flat terrain or regular street bumps/turns, city/highway...
We figure something is rubbing in the back or perhaps its due to a bulletin from the 2008 SFS (welding fix in the rear panel)?
2013 SFS 2.0T.... Rear hatch locks/unlocks good. When opening hatch illumination light will NOT turn on. Yet I can manually turn it on (switch by the light itself). It will stay on forever if in that "mode".
Front passenger/driver light unit was replaced under warranty. Just recently noticed it that rear hatch light issue...
2001 2.4 L AWD Manual Transmission.
Live data readings from vehicle continuously indicates "open loop- driving" for the Fuel System Status (Fuel System 1) . During idle and on open high way driving as 120 km for 10 minutes. I use an ELM327 diagnostic device with ScanMaster-EL 2.2 software.
After establishing this initially I disconnected the battery to do a complete ECU reset. I do not get error codes.
O2 Sensor1 Bank1 constantly reported as 1.275 V and sensor 2 as 0.02 V. I believe however the constant readings are as as a result of being in open loop.
No error codes reported.
The software report OBD1 ability on the diagnostic link.
During driving I got the following readings:
Fuel System 1: open loop-driving
Fuel System 2: not supported.
Calculated load: 6.27 to 83.14, avg 40.6
Fuel trims: 0
RPM: 1008 to 3988, avg 2407
Speed (km/h): 0 to 122, avg 77.66.
Timing Advance #1 degrees: 7 to 44 degrees, avg 22.42
Intake Air Temp (degrees C). 19 to 24
Air Flow Rate - (g/s): 3.18 to 69.27, avg 25.46
The software reports that the O2 Sensor bank 2 is not supported. I am not certain whether I should trust the software. In South Africa cats are not mandatory, hence is it possible explanation.
2) Is it possible to send a command on OBD to force closed loop?
I noticed from time to time when i accelerate ventilation fans tend to drop speed. Not sure if the a/c shuts off for a brief moment as you can feel warmer air exit the vents. Nothing of concern to me as the a/c works fine, just wondering if it does this for a reason. Knowing the ac is a huge power consumption to the vehicle, I am wondering if it does this for the engine to put more power where needed.
On another note. I did a test on the HWY this past Saturday omw to a wedding coverage. 2hr drive there i used the a/c with seat vents on and got about 22/23mpg. On the way back i did the opposite and got 29.2mph, not too shabby... 2016 - 2.0T .....
I went to fill up my Santa Fe's tank for the first time and was only able to get about 9 gallons in. The pump shut off when the car only had about 2/3 of the tank full. I let it be, but I really don't want to be dealing with this every week. Have issues put gas in? Any tricks/tips? I do live in California which requires a lot of equipment on the pumps to prevent gas fumes from escaping. I'm not sure if that's contributing to the premature shut-off.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2008 Santa Fe Limited and am having a major problem. On 3 different occasions, the accelerator pedal has stuck open at full throttle. At first I dismissed the problem as a fluke or the floormat and pedal getting stuck together.
This week while on vacation with my family in Myrtle Beach, SC, I was pulling onto a 4 lane and had to "punch it" from a dead stop to get up to speed with the other vehicles. When I got up to the desired speed I let off of the accelerator pedal and to my dismay the vehicle kept going. I told my family to hold on and immediately hit the brake and safely pulled into the median while the vehicle was still surging. With my foot on the brake my wife put it in neutral and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up. I checked to see if the floormat and accelerator pedal was stuck together somehow and they were not touching. I do not know if it was me freeing up the pedal with my foot or if the vehicle some how on it's own finally reved back down to normal RPM's.
In essence my family and I were in a runaway vehicle and luckily the braking system was strong enough to safely stop us while at full throttle.
This was a scary experience for my wife and I and a horrifying experience for my children. It was the exact situation Toyota had a couple of years ago with the accelerator sticking on their Prius models.
Is the accelerator system a mechanical one with a throttle cable going to the throttle body or is everything computerized. I do not know if it is a mechanical or computer problem.
How do you stop the seat from going all the way back on its own when you turn the engine off?
We have two kids in car seats in the back and it gives them no room to get out.
A week ago, my wife and I were driving on the highway when suddenly our 2014 Santa Fe decided to shut off at 65 mph. When I say shut off, I mean EVERY SINGLE THING IN THE CAR DIED. All of the interior lights off, headlights off, instrument cluster, EVERYTHING. Being cool, calm, and collected, I immediately shifted into neutral, cranked, and all was back to normal. Not in the 2 years that we have owned this car has that EVER happened! I chalked it up to an inexplicable electrical anomaly.
Tonight, again, the same thing happened under different circumstances. This time, I was following her. She came to a stop at a red light, then once she lifted her foot off the brake, everything shut off. I instructed her to immediately put the car in neutral and try starting it. Like last time, it turned right back on. Apparently, there seemed to be an issue with the previous generation with the 2.4 motors.
Having problems with center console not shutting properly? A few days ago out of the blue it would not shut, almost as though something was blocking it. If I push really hard it clicks shut but when I go to open it again it takes a lot of unusual force to open.
View 8 RepliesIt only happens when the roof is open and it's as if a screw is a little loose.
View 4 Replies2013 SF Sport 2.0T ... This just started a couple of days ago. Worked fine until then. Neither the proximity key near the car and pressing the liftgate release, nor hitting the fob's "trunk open" button, NOR hitting the "unlock" button on the inside door panel will unlock the liftgate! If I hit the fob or press the outside release, the parking lights flash twice, but that's IT! No "unlock" and I can't open the lift gate. (I can't see them if I hit the inside the cabin button). All other locks work as they are supposed to.
View 3 RepliesWhen closing my glove box, it will open back out. That's if I slap it on and let go. I noticed that there are 2 notches sliding out of the glove box. If I push them in by hand, they slide out slowly. So I tried to close the glove box and keep my hand on it for a couple of seconds for the notches to slide. It stays closed this way. I'm suspecting this is tied to the cold weather we're having lately. I hope I don't have to take it apart to re-lube it or anything like that.
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