Saturn - Aura :: 2008 - Not Starting Even Won't Crank - Battery?
Nov 23, 2014
When I went to go shopping this afternoon, I discovered my car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even crank, which was strange since it seemed to be running fine just two days ago. At this point I assume either the battery is bad or something else is. It's a bit hard for me to tell since the engine wouldn't even try to turn over.
Initial Observations: When I first tried to turn the the car on it wouldn't even turn over, in fact, all I could hear was the a fairly loud buzzing from behind the dash board. On further attempts I noticed that the info display (or whatever it's called) wasn't displaying the tire pressure readings. I did later notice some "reluctance" from the automatic door mechanism, and earlier this week I observed my car was a bit more reluctant than usual to start, but I assumed it was just the cold weather. After the initial attempt to get my car started, I tried jumping it, but no luck. It still wouldn't start or even turn over. If it's the battery, said battery must have a dead cell, however, wouldn't the engine still try to "turn"?
Later observations: I tried again this evening after it had gotten dark, since it would let me observe the headlights and such. Same behavior as before. I couldn't really tell if lights had dimmed. HOWEVER, when I tried yet again a little later I accidentally set off the alarm. Now I observed the lights were dim and the horn weak.
Additionally, when I turned the alarm off I heard that buzz behind the dash again. Most of what I've seen makes me lean toward the battery, but this noise bothers me and makes me wonder whether there may be some kind of electrical fault.
Other information: My car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, that I got used in Jan of 2010. I assume the battery is at least that old, since I haven't gotten it replaced while I've owned it.
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I have a 2008 Saturn Aura. Last spring I had an incident where I was driving on a highway (60mph or >) and the car started to decelerate and the gas pedal didn't respond. I pulled off the road, and the car wouldn't start, but the radio worked. By the time AAA came, the car started and I didn't have another problem for 10 months. I did take it to the dealer after the first episode, and they couldn't find anything. Recently I had 2 similar episodes on the same day, one hour apart. I was again driving on a highway. After 5-10 mins, the car was able to be started again. I feel like it's a waste of money to take the car in to the dealer again, since they didn't find anything the first time. What might cause this to happen?
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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My Saturn Aura XR shakes when i get up to about 60 - 65 mph. even worse when i go faster. any suggestions on what to do. i am going to get the alingment checked. but i think it is something else.
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I just bought this car and if I am on a incline and take my foot off the gas it rolls backward as if it a Manual transmission and it is not. I am being told this is normal because of low rpms.
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All the sudden last night I looked outside and saw several lights on my car turning on for no reason. My head and tail lights, my interior lights. I tried turning them off with the key in and out but that did not stop them from going off. they stayed on until the battery drained. Another on going problem is neither of the remotes with new battery's will work rarely. To unlock truck, or doors and when they do work not all the doors will lock or unlock with the remotes when they occasionally work.
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I have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
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I took my 2007 Saturn Aura for a scheduled oil change. They did the change and than called me into the shop to show me an oil leak. I was told that the oil pan gasket is leaking oil onto the exhaust and I could have a fire if I didn't get it replaced. The thing is that my car has been parked in the same place on my driveway every day for 5 years and has never dripped a drop of oil on the concrete. The car has only 30,000 miles and has been well maintained. How likely is it that there is a real problem with the oil pan gasket?
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Having problems with their radio buttons sometimes working, sometimes not? I'm wondering if I need to "pop off" the buttons and clean contacts or if I'm going to have to replace the radio. This is in a 2008 Saturn Aura, but I'm sure this radio is in other GM cars.
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This afternoon, I was trying to get a sticker off of my wife's rear window (2009 Saturn). I put some goo goneon a paper towel and put it over the sticker and went inside. The car was in the garage, and I closed the doorand went into the house.
About an hour later, I went to check on the progress. What I found was the entire rear window was shattered. Could it have possibly gotten too hot in such a short time frame to cause that? I will add that about a monthago, the car was in an accident and hit just behind the passenger side rear tire (it pulled the whole rear bumperoff.
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I recently had my check engine light come on (again) and it's registering a P1175 error (again). This is apparently indicates a problem with the "fuel trim cylinder balance" in bank 2. And according to what I've read can be caused by a number of things, such as a faulty oxygen sensor, ignition problem, fuel injection problem, or some other condition.
I say again, because I had it come on about two months ago with the same error and when I took it in they flushed the fuel injectors, which was apparently recommended by bulletin 03-06-04-030H.
Unfortunately the light has come on again, and stayed on. This happened after I stopped to get gas on my 6 hour drive from visiting family in Michigan. Another interesting data point is that this code has been in the warning state in my engine for over a year from what I can tell. I've only used my OBD2 reader a couple of times. First was 9/2011, and no problem was detected. Six months later in March 2012, I checked it again and P1175 was a "pending code". I hadn't used the reader until this problem. But now, over a year later, the issue has apparently moved from a pending problem to a more serious one.
What this all boils down to, is that I'm asking opinions as to what the problem may actually be. I'm curious at to what could have been so long in developing. I intend to take the car in to get looked at shortly, but in the mean time I figured I'd ask around.
For reference, my car is a 2008 Saturn Aura XE, with about 71K in mileage (over 13k since I got that reading in 2012).
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I have a 2009 Saturn aura and what's goin on is when I apply my brakes the car hesitates a sec then slightly jerks before moving on. It doesn't do it any other time and it will happen no matter what gear or speed I am in/going. Only when the brakes are applied......?? I just don't get it. It smooth as ever just as long as I don't touch the bake
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Has experienced transmission seem to jump back in gear after coasting at low speeds in traffic. When I push on the pedal after coasting it jumps back in gear and is very frustrating. I have had it checked out at dealer and they told me they re-programmed the Transmission which scared me. But that didn't fix the problem. Will be taking it in one more time before I decide what to do.
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Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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I hear a consistent tick tick tick when driving coming from what sounds like the passenger side wheel . It's is consistent with the rate of speed I'm traveling so if I'm going slow the tick is slow and if I speed up the tick speeds up. If I stop the tick stops.
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I am at my wit's end with my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. In the last four months we have had periodic problems starting it. It will act like it wants to crank but won't fire up. However, a local mechanic and the Nissan dealer can't determine the problem. They have: ~ recharged the battery ~ replaced the battery cables ~ replaced the spark plugs ~ tested the fuel pressure ~ replaced the ECM relay ~ replaced the adjusted steering angle sensor Of course, it starts right up at the shop so they can't duplicate the problem.
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So I just bought this 08 civic LX (110k miles). After a few days of flawless driving, we noticed a couple wires NOT connected that were coming from the hood opener-sensor thing. Plugged them together and noticed no difference in the car until I let the car sit for about 6 hours then thats when the trouble started. Tried starting the car and the engine had trouble cranking then would stop. Pulled the key out and tried a couple more times and finally the engine started. The next day I had to do the same thing to get the car to start and now 2 days later the car wont even crank. No ticking, no cranking- nothing. Battery date is 10/14 so its coming up on 2 years old. When I turn the car to "On", everything works (stereo, lights, headlights, dashboard lights- everything). You would notice no difference until you tried starting the car.
I haven't gotten to it yet but I haven't tried cleaning the battery connections. Just looking at them I cannot notice any problems or visual corrosion. Im thinking that because I plugged those wires from the hood-sensor-thing, its a bad sensor and drew current from the battery while the car was off.
If this was the case then jumping the car would probably fix it but nope, not my lucky day. Jumping the car didn't work at all and before I start checking fuses and connections, what the problem could be.
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I changed the battery 6 months ago and twice it has failed to crank since. Is there something draining the battery?
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99 Saturn SL2 will turn over but not crank. No fire to the plugs,,,,,,,change out the crankshaft positioning sensor, removed and cleaned ignitions module and coil pack, still wont crank and still no fire to the plugs.
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My 1997 SL is not starting. This is not all the time, just when i need it the most, or when i've stopped for gas at midnight on the interstate 200 miles from home. Turn the key nothing happens. Have headlights, interior ,radio. tried jumping it, no luck. The first time it did it we had stopped for gas, pump was out so started it moved to other side turned it off then it wouldn't start. tried jumping it two times,no luck, turned key on at least 50 times...no luck, then the third guy who stopped to tried tightening the ground, tried it again it started. Started a dozen or so times over the next couple of days and it did it again.
Tried turning the negative terminal tighter again, tried it, it started so it must be the ground right? Well replaced the ground battery cable, tried it several times while it sat there started fine. Moved it 50 feet or so,tried it again wouldn't start. Kicked it...so much for the ground wire theory. Got up the next morning went out..it started. Drove it to advanced and had them hook it up to check battery/alternator/charging. Machine says everything is fine. Decided to give it another chance next morning, started, drove about 1/2 mile, forgot cell phone,ran back, turned it off ,ran back out, won't start.
Now ready to use it for target practice. Still keep thinking its something to do with the battery wires because every time it has started back up,with the exception of letting it sit overnight, i had just messed with the wires. Also am wondering if its a coincidence that all three times it's pulled this it had been started, ran for a short distance, and turned off. Also noticed that although i have interior ,radio etc, when it won't start the radio light does dim somewhat but I don't know if it does that all the time. I am laid off so a trip to the saturn garage is looking really expensive but i don't know what else to do.
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vue would crank, not start. 5 min later it started. done this 3 times in 1 month. changed original fuel filter. am leaning towards fuel. vs spark. no codes. I see pump assy's for $175. or a pump alone for $30. if I remove tank and pump assy, would there be any issue with changing pump alone? not paying shop so its my effort the last gm pump assy I did had a working pump but corrosion on leads to pump inside tank. I replaced assy because I had already bought assy.
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