Check out the pics, noticed car was overheating, let it cool down, got it home and found this broken hose (it was a crack in the hose before I broke it all the way taking the throttle body off). What is the part number for this hose and what else I should be looking for now that the car overheated?
View 18 RepliesI have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
Well my wifes Passat blew a coolant hose and shut down. Now when you try and start it it makes a terrible clanking sound. I'm about to start tearing it apart today. She has the v6 30v...
View 5 RepliesSo this car is having overheating problems -- it's a 2001, Subaru outback legacy wagon, 125,000 miles on it, automatic. I was driving it an hour on the highway, pulled off an exit, it overheated and stalled. Got it into a gas station only to find the coolant cap on the reserve had blown off and coolant went everywhere. So i put new coolant and water in and got it to go 20 minutes only to overheat again.
Drove it back home blowing the heater and seemed to somewhat remain at 1/2 to 3/4 mark on the temp gauge. Then i took it to shop-- they said probably an air bubble that worked its way out?! and they basically did nothing. Drove it again an hour this weekend, same thing happened--drove it back with the heater on. Brought it to ANOTHER shop that first off thinks its the timing belt. The person i bought it from had head gaskets, timing belt, water pump and thermostat all replaced. The only thing they were told to do was flush the radiator which they did not do.
SO...what do i do? I'm taking it to yet another place and don't want to be ripped off -- Change the radiator cap? Could it be one of the parts blew again? They were replaced last year. Should i flush the radiator-- what would that do really? Could it be an electrical/fuse problem with the fans?
My 2015 2.4L Hyundai Sonata randomly started overheating today. The coolant tank is full and it never did this before. The temperature gauge goes up and the information display says car has overheated.
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2006 Sonata LX, that has been leaking PS fluid for a while, but has gotten quite a bit worse lately. I finally put it up on ramps, and crawled underneath, and from what I can see, I think it's leaking from the pressure hose someplace.
The hose is covered with some type of a silver wrap. I wiped everything down as much as I could with a rag, waited for an hour, then crawled back underneath. There was some new fluid on the hose wrapping right above where it goes into the steering gear box (the driver-side leg of the hose).
Does this sound like it could be the hose? Would it be ok to remove the protective wrap to make sure? it's only wire-tied on to secure it, so I don't see why not.
08 Sonata: I have been noticing this for a couple of months.
Its summer out here in CO and my car typically has the the thermostat on cold, but the AC is off, Air on fresh air (default with AC off), windows rolled down. After driving the car for ~ 5-10 minutes, the vents for the driver and passenger's feet blow out hot air. It gets just a little difficult to breathe and I am forced to turn the AC on. The AC works fine, no issues.
I am at 43k miles and wanted to run this by the forum before heading to the dealer.
I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
View 57 RepliesThe wife was out in the Fe yesterday(2001 2.7 V6 Auto AWD) running at highway speed 80kmh before pulling up to a junction, when she pulled off again then the car came to a halt and lost all drive with engine still running ok. Luckily wife has the sense to switch it off. Tow trucked it home after she saw a puddle of tranny fluid under the car.
Any way it turned out one of the transmission hoses running from the cooler (right hand side hose that runs under radiator) managed to blow off the metal pipe.. don't know how, oem clamp was on and hose didn't split just came off! Needless to say this resulted in the tranny fluid quickly being emptied all over the engine bay and no gears.
So ive re attached the hose with new clamp and have drained what fluid was left in the pan..about 1 liter, and need to fill it up now and find out if it still works ok.
Now the manual says it needs 8.9ltr for a full fill but the question is will it of emptied the torque convertor as well so its completely empty or will it just of blown out the contents of the pan before stopping then just needing half fill.
What could cause a hose to blow off, they don't run at that high pressure normally, average hose pressure is normally 35-55psi from what I can find out so shouldn't blow off that easy should it.
I've been driving a 2006 Liberty with 110,000 miles and have had no problems for about 6 months. I didn't get a tune up at the behest of the previous owner who had showed me records of the last time he had it tuned up. I didn't notice that he hadn't flushed the radiator, however. Since the cold weather started, I've been very cautious and making sure not to cold start. On my way home from work, I was stopped at a red light, started to accelerate and heard and felt a POP that felt like the transmission slipping or something to that extent.
I noticed the car started to overheat. I pulled over, and being the rushing idiot that I am, I decided to open the radiator cap. I didn't hurt myself but coolant leaked everywhere and along with it were chunks of rust. I had a lot of trouble turning it over to get it home but ended up doing so and it didn't seem to run any worse, sans the overheating and cloud of coolant. I'm so nervous to take it to a mechanic and see the monetary damage. From the description, what I'll be in for? Did I damage it further by repeatedly trying to turn it over??
So, I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Orvis edition) with about 270,000 miles. It still runs great and has been really useful in the snow this winter. A couple days ago the power steering pressure hose blew. My mechanic wants to replace it, but I can get a replacement hose locally. Is there any reason I shouldn't just do this myself. Do I need to worry about the fluid sprayed around the engine? The serpentine belt is only a few months old and squeaked only a little on the three mile drive to get it home.
View 8 RepliesWhen I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
This weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
I blew some hose in my engine and radiator fluid was spraying out of it like crazy. It's on a 1999 f150 4.6 on the passenger side near the rear of the engine but about even with the top of the engine...
View 1 RepliesMy engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
Ok today I just drove from my house to my parents to get an electrical panel and it drove fine. It is about 17 miles of 55mph country winding highway. I arrive there and I smell the all too familiar hot brakes smell. I get out and see a little smoke coming from the right rear brakes. I know it must be either a locking up caliper or a bad caliper bracket as these are the Akebono brakes. What are your recommendations for replacement parts?
I plan to replace the drivers side rotor as more than likely it is now warped. I plan to change pads on both sides and the drivers side rear caliper. Is there a special procedure for a vehicle with anti-lock brakes to properly bleed them? I have a caliper spreader will I screw up the accumulator for the ABS if I just spread the old caliper for removal?
I have a buddy with a 2006 Sonata, 3.3. It has about 138,000 miles on it.
When it gets hot, it will LEAP into gear. As if when you put it in gear, the throttle is pushed open 10% or something. Kinda like you would do with an old Ford or Chevy (like the 70's) that stalls when you put in gear. When it gets really hot, like after driving it for 30 or 40 miles, when you come to a stop, you lose the vacuum boost on the brakes, and the engine just goes on the pre-detonating rampage! It literally sounds like Dodge with Cummins diesel in it! It's fighting you while you struggle to keep it from LAUNCHING off the line. The strange thing is, as it is put back into N or P, it returns to normal instantaneously as if nothing was wrong in the first place.
My bud took it to the dealer, here is what they think it could be:
1. Clogged cats (nope, no back pressure, already checked)
2. Wrong spark plugs (it does not have the OEM direct replacement, it has some kind of dual electrode deal in it, but the part number crosses as an acceptable replacement)
3. The dealer did say that the ecm is up to date and that the throttle body is calibrated. That's what I thought it was in the first place.
In my professional opinion, I think it might be a ragged out timing belt. But I'm a domestic mechanic, not so strong with the imports (not trolling here, seriously, I work with fleets 99% of the time).
And there are no codes either.
Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
So, my step-son was in a difficult situation on the road and had to drive his 2004 Camry for about 30 minutes with the engine overheating. It finally stopped running (it was smoking) and he called me to tow it home.
Now that it's home and cooled down, we can't get it to start at all. The starter sounds like it's just winding without turning the engine over. (It's a steady whine, not a chucka, chucka, chucka like you normally hear.) We replaced the starter, thinking the bendix just wasn't engaging the flywheel, but we get the same whine when trying to start.
I've checked the oil and don't see any buttery condition, so I don't think we have coolant in the oil.
Is the engine blown? If so, what are my options? I don't have a lot of time to resolve this, so faster is better.
my friends mechanic is telling him his 2000 outback (2.5 4 cyl) has a blown head gasket. there is NO water leaking/seeping out from anywhere outside the motor AND there is NO water in the crankcase motor oil. the thermostat has been replaced. the cooling fans work. I'm inclined to say it's a plugged radiator. he is considering replacing the head gasket (to the tune of $1500+) on advice of his mechanic. is it possible to have a blown head gasket and not be leaking coolant?
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