Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Overheating (Thermostat Replaced)
Aug 28, 2016
My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
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problem is the my 1998 Legacy (142K) overheated this past weekend. It shut off and I had it towed to a "new" mechanic around the corner from my house. He diagnosed the problem as being a faulty thermostat. He replaced the thermostat and returned the vehicle to me. Two days later my wife was driving home and the car had a major overheating incident with resulting serious mechanical failure. I did a little research and within about five minutes found that this problem is quite common for this car and is more commonly related to a head gasket issue. My question is should this mechanic be held responsible in any way for the misdiagnosed problem? If so, what would be the best course of action? The car was otherwise running fine and in fact I recently had the transmission rebuilt.
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Bought this truck at auction a few days ago. Started drive home and noticed temp gauge almost pegged full hot. Stopped and left it and pickup up later that day with trailer. Got home and started and ran it. Will not overheat at idle. Gauge fluctuates between full cold and 1/2 at idle. Rev up and temp drops to full cold. Drive around town under 35 and it stays between 1/2 and 3/4. Get on the highway and Pegs full hot. Replace thermostat and flushed system. Lots of rusty water and chunks of rust/mud poured out.
Upper rad hose is firm and hot. Lower rad hose is warm soft. Bypassed heater core and still over heats. I can run water hose from top hole on radiator and water crosses threw radiator and pours out the bottom so I don't think it's clogged. It's not the head gasket, I have no smoke, no milky oil and no oil in coolant. Fan clutch seems fine, I can spin it with the engine off and feel resistance. Truck hasnt boiled over while running hot so the gauge may be wrong. If it means anything the truck runs very rough and pulled up a misfire on cylinder #1 and had a iac code.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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When I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
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Car: 2006 sonata GLS V6, 62,000 mi
Abstract of symptom: Delayed cooling fan kicking in
Full Symptom description: 2 weeks ago, I was stuck in slow-going traffic. All of the sudden, I found the engine temperature gauge was pointing at the redline, which had never happened before! Then I was about to make an emergency stop on the shoulder, the gauge was falling back to the midline within 30 seconds. As I kept driving in the traffic, the gauge just fluctuated between mid-high to redline. There was a moment I had to stop and shut the engine down, then 1 minute later I restarted the engine, the gauge turned normal again: a little bit under the midline. Then the traffic improved, and the gauge stayed calm all the way home.
Then I noticed that the overheat problem only happens on slow-going/stop traffic; in another word, when I am driving down the interstate @60 mph, engine temperature is always perfect. (a little bit under the midline) At the parking lot, I triggered the problem to re-occur by idling while I was watching the cooling fan--and I found the fan didn't kick in until gauge hit mid-high. After fan kicked in, the gauge fell back to midline, but seemed never to the perfect status. (a little bit under the midline).
Differential: Coolant quality and quantity are good; no visible leak on radiator/hose; when I started a cold engine in the morning and turned on A/C at the same time, the fan kicked in immediately. And it seems that keeping A/C on can prevent overheat from happening, even in slow-going traffic.
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I have a question regarding a overheating problem I have with my 99GLS V6. I had the dealer do a timing belt, water pump, thermostat etc on my Passat about a year ago. I also have coolant leak in the metal pipes under my intake, which I haven't had a chance to tend to yet. I noticed recently that my car overheats and there was alot of pressure built up in the hoses. If I remember correctly, the thermostats are designed to fail in the open position. So I am wondering because of the leak, what's the chances that my thermostat could have failed in the closed position? I'm hoping its just air in the system and lack of coolant is causing this. It's been more than a year so I'll have to cough up the dough for this one.
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic Lx and I was driving one day and I look down to see if I was speeding or not (easy to do) and I see that the thermostat is almost all the way to the red line. So I pull over to a store and check my fluids. The oil was low so I put two quarts in. There are no signs of leaks anywhere. I also topped off the coolant. Ever sense the care has been fine so could of it been the low fluids?
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I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
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So I replaced my thermostat today... to do that I unhooked the negative terminal of the battery, removed the hose off the thermostat housing (I think that's what it's called) and disconnected the switch to the alternator as well as take off the 13mm jam nut holding the wire to the side of the alternator. I reconnected everything up, put the key into the ignition and just turned it before starting the car and the alarm started going off. I disabled the alarm from controlling the lights and horn by unplugging the electrical connector just behind the fuse panel so I could do some errands today. I then disconnected both terminals on the battery and touched them together to reset the ecu.
After reading that holding the key into the door lock until the windows roll down would reset the alarm; this weekend I'm going to hook up my driver side door lock mechanism (been a little lazy) and give that a try.
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So my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
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2002 Camry 4 cyclinder. P0128 code - replaced the thermostat and coolant. P0128 code is now locked in. Lifetd the battery cable, but it is still there when I start the engine - or - it comes comes back immediately when I start the engine. Coolant temperature looks normal on the dashboard gage when I drive the car. What should I do now?
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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My son has a Mustang GT 5.0 that is overheating. I replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 3 core radiator. It had underdrive pulleys so I replaced them with stock pulleys. I put dual electric fans on it. I flushed the block and put a new thermostat and replaced all the hoses (made sure the bottom radiator hose had wire in it so it wouldn't collapse). I put a new water pump and drive belt but it still overheats when sitting in traffic and overheats when driving with the A/C on.
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I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
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I have a 2007 GLS. Within the past year I had about 4 or 5 difficult starts. Just recently I got a CEL with cod P0011. I replaced the OCV as that is the usual culprit. Within 6 miles of clearing the CEL, I am still getting the same CEL. I am wondering if the problem is either the wiring harness or the Camshaft Position Sensor.
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Check out the pics, noticed car was overheating, let it cool down, got it home and found this broken hose (it was a crack in the hose before I broke it all the way taking the throttle body off). What is the part number for this hose and what else I should be looking for now that the car overheated?
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So my issue, had heat last year, turned on first time this year and its cold. So I did some research on the site and have done a few things but still no heat
First thing I did was flushed coolant system and add new coolant as I have 235,000 miles on the truck and it looked rough
Ran the truck for a while and checked heater core hoses, they were both warm, not hot by any means so I pulled the thermostat and replaced the thermostat and gasket
Now the hoses to heater core are both hot and my temp gauge went up about 1/4" higher than it ever has, but still no heat.
Blows fine, just cold or sometimes luke warm. I pulled the glove box back to try and see I I could hear anything when I change from hot to cold and I hear or see nothing. Only movement I see is when changing cycles from defrost, heater, ac... So could this be a blend door issue an how do I get to the blend door, is it behind the big plastic plenum box?
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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I just replaced the original serpentine belt at 95k miles (more preventative than anything) and now it's squeaking. Does this mean I have to replace the tensioner?
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So just to sum it up. Past few days I had been hearing a grinding/clicking noise from my left front tire. I had an accident on that side a few months back. Went to the mechanic and they said it is most probably the wheel bearing and possible the hub also.
They took it apart and changed the wheel bearing. After two days of getting the wheel bearing changed the noise is back. It is not nearly as loud but it is definitely there.
What it could be? Could it be the hub itself? I have a 07 Sonata with 100k+ miles on it
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