I recently bought a 2006 sonata with the 2.4 & automatic. It has 56k miles but is out of warranty (CDN). A lot of times at 50 mph it has a very noticeable surge where the car is not sure what gear it wants to be in (feels like torque converter locking & unlocking). At 60 mph plus it's fine & the tranny shifts smoothly. The fluid is nice & red with no burning smell.
View 6 RepliesMy recently acquired '07 SE V6 has a little quirk when I drive it in the morning. Until it warms up completely, it seems to have a little surge while driving under light throttle. Tach doesn't jumo, and there is no CEL. Tranny was just flushed and serviced also. Once the car is at normal operating temp, all is well. I've searched the archives, and there are some suggestions about having a bad TPS, but my rpm fluctuations aren't that bad, and like I said, don't make the tach move. It also will sometimes hesitate just a hair when taking off for the first time after starting.
View 23 RepliesI've noticed my car starting to shake when I'm in the speed range of 40 to 50 but really feel it at 45. I don't think it's a balance issue with tires because anything faster or slower it doesn't shake. The shake sensation I feel is on the front left side and I feel it mainly in sterling wheel but you can feel it throughout the car.
View 3 RepliesI was on my drive in to work Wednesday and the car once warmed up started surging and cutting out. I got it to work and home again and hooked up my code reader and came up with P0304 meaning misfire in number 4 cylinder.
View 2 RepliesWhen coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1991 celica gt 5sfe hatchback. I am getting a surging at constant speed, at idle it's fine as well as acceleration. It only does it when trying to maintain a constant speed in the range of 10-50 mph or so. It's feels like I'm pushing the gas and letting off repeatedly. I took it to get an emissions test and it failed on the low side test with high co2 reading, everything else is fine and one place couldn't do the test because the surging kept kicking the computer out since they have to keep it at a constant 15 mph speed. I think whatever is causing the surging is causing me to fail the low side emissions. Could it be the iecu?
View 10 RepliesLast Thrusday, my wife couldn't start my Sonata 2010 with 30,350 miles on it. It just clicked and sounded like a dead battery. She had to get a jump start through Hyundai road side service.
I change the battery yesterday (it only had 225 cranking amps) and immediately strange things started happening: lights flickering, engine surging, hard starting, not starting just clicking, gauge lights blink strangely at startup and when switching off ignition, not remembering odometer settings (I set my odo for MPG).
This is what I get from the DTC .....
DTC P0705
Description : transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
State : History
I have done some google search on the above diagnostic trouble code P0705 and as i understood , it indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
Since the check engine light illuminated two times (two separate occasion) then it turns off now; the ECM is actually receiving input signal from the TRS.
So that leads me to think that the TRS is actually working but the problem might be one of the following two:
1- Open or short in the TRS circuit?
2- Dirty transmission fluid.
What do you think the steps i should do first of all ? how would i check the transmission fluid since my vehicle has no transmission fluid dipstick. My driving condition would fall into "severe" category and it reached 60,000 miles now ...
Are there any 2008 Elantra drivers out there who have a problem with hesitation and dragging at the 35-40 mph range (3rd into 4th gears)? I'm told by the dealer that although there is a hesitation which he noticed as well after driving it, there is nothing that can be done until Hyundai issues a "fix." Learned my lesson here and will probably not purchase another Hyundai. My 2003 Elantra was a better ride.
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 expedition surges very slightly while cruising under very low throttle. Usually most noticeable at 60-65 mph with no headwind.
Took it in and had my mechanic check it out. He confirmed the slight surge and said it felt like the torque converter was locking and unlocking. No codes or pending codes were found related to the power train.
Abs light is on for a bad rear wheel speed sensor. Code for right rear. Checking the sensor showed 3 ohms for right, 5 ohms left ( left is less than a year old on a new wheel bearing.)
Initial thought was the bad sensor is giving bad input confusing the pcm/tcm. But the condition remains with the sensor unplugged.
Driving down the road watching the tach, it does appear that the converter is not staying locked. Condition goes away with more throttle. Motor runs smoothly otherwise with no indications of misfire. Plugs have 50k miles on them, as does the transmission fluid. Fluid is red and smells fine. Never gotten hotter than 210 by the gauge in the pressure port.
Why would it lock/unlock at very low throttle, but lock tight with more throttle? Tps flaking out? Throttle body motor getting twitchy? Can I pull my popup to the hills this weekend?
Is it just me or is the cruising range feature in the ODO display area useless?
GS 430 2006 - 6 months old-
Filled up today while on a 200 mile trip and the car, with a full tank, says 240 miles left.
If I have an 18 gallon tank, that would be about 13.3 miles per gallon when I am averaging above 20 on the highway.
Does the GS not recalculate this and update it or does it use a standard MPG? Is there some way to adjust this?
Just bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
View 14 RepliesThe MIL light came on and I noticed the shifting P-D or P-R was hard. Checked the Transmission Fluid and noticed it was low. Topped it up, but still MIL is on and shifting hard still. I bought a OBD2 Scanner and it returns P0707 "Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input". Should I try clearing the DTC? It's a drag because it's my wife's car and she's driving mine.
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 F-250. I have had this truck since Oct 2013 and had never use 4 wheel drive here in southern Alabama, so my question is i lock my hubs, turn my selector to 4 high and it works. Now selecting to 4 low and I get nothing.
View 9 Replies2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
View 3 Replies2006 sonata gl with 4-cyl engine. Car runs/feels fine. Installed HID kit a while ago (with harness) and no problem. Driving home late afternoon (with AC on hi) stopped on red light. Radio was on but NO HID lights on - then momentarily car stalls. Starts back up right a way and NO check engine light. Tried AC- works fine, turn the lights on (HID 35w slim balast), radio on - everything is fine.
My "suspect" is old battery (original!) and I think that for a short moment charging system (alternator) could not keep up/charge battery while car was idling with AC and radio on (hi load).
How long is original battery good for (5-6-...yrs)? Looked earlier at Everstart batteries (or was it Eveready brand?) made by Johnson. I could only find a few batteries but they were sitting on the shelf since last summer (sticker said made 07/2010 !). Are they any good?
Usually in the morning after starting the car, when I put the car into reverse the car stalls. I start it up again and it works fine. It has been doing this for a few months. When I went to get oil change they said I needed to replace battery so I did. Problem is still there. It has done this twice when I try to take off from a red light. I have no check engine lights either. My car has 105,000 miles but cannot really afford to buy a new car at the moment.
View 5 RepliesI have an 09 Sonata V6 3.3 W/ 13,000 miles.(yes) While driving ESC & CEL lights come on and car stalls. Pull over and it restarts. May do it one more time, or six times. Dealer gets no codes. They called Hyudai and they said that the ABS control module is not communicating and that why no codes. No ABS light on ever. Cost is 2,300 parts & labor! A lot of people have ESC & CEL lights come on but car doesn't stall.
View 9 RepliesI have an 2006 GLS 3.3 with 26,700 miles on it, any time I turn the A/C on the temp gauge shoots all the way up to the red. When I turn the A/C off it drops fast right back down to the middle. No radiator leaks, my coolant level is great in the reservoir, and I already looks and my radiator fan turns on anytime I turn the A/C on. I live in AZ and it's been 100+ outside and going to stay that way for the next few months. What might be causing this. Bad ground? Bad temp sensor?
View 3 RepliesSo last summer I had the AC recharged. Worked great. I only ran the AC about twice over the winter to lub the seals (about 30 sec) prob not long enough but anyway.
I used the AC this month a couple of times briefly and it seemed to work just as well but today I get NOTHING except hot air. I cleaned the cabin filter, it sounds like the compressor comes on cause I know it makes that kick sound a few secs after hitting the AC button which illuminates. I took a quick look around but didn't see any leaks. fuse looked ok. I noticed the Low pressure line is wrapped.. do i have to take that off to check for leaks?
Does this sound like the refrigerant is low again after only like 6 months. If it worked great last week now nothing does that seem like the issue? Thinking of just filling up from autozone myself. I've also have a bad BCM with intermittent light/dash/window issues which arises in heat for past 2 years.