Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 Misfiring And Surging While Cruising At 1500 -1700 RPMs In Any Gear
Oct 16, 2016
I have a 06 f350 with 5.4 140k miles. Recently it has been shaking bad on idle but only in gear and it's hard to start when cold. The exhaust is moist at all times and the fluids never leak. When you floor it it hesitates feels like it's overly rich but if you let off a little it stars to pull again. Also while cruising at 1500-1700 rpms in any gear it will surge and skip. Only time it will miss and the CEL comes on is over 4000 rpms for a random misfire. Just put new coils in new fuel pump and filter. There has always been a cat code but it never effected the drivability. Could it be injectors?
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2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
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I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
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While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
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I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
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I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
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I just bought my first truck ever, ended up with a 2002 F250 SuperDuty V8 5.4. I'm fairly handy with vehicles but can't seem to figure out the issues I'm having. I searched the threads and have tried a number of this solutions, but to no avail.
1) The truck runs smooth above roughly 1700 RPM, but between 1300&1700 there is a distinct stutter and shaking of the entire truck. Although the check engine light does not come on the Scanner indicates a misfire in cylinder #3 and I've replace the plugs and coil, but it's still there. Fuel filter has been recently replaced and seafoam run thru the tank and vacuum line. The mechanic at the local mom & pop shop said it is most likely a damaged valve in #3. Am I missing anything? Do you think a valve job is necessary?
2) When I got out of the truck tonight the radio stayed on, I tried the WD-40 fix (no luck), additionally checked the fuses (all in proper condition). Not sure if this relates but the auto door locks started acting up as well and the door ajar light stays on all the time. I saw a post about a "VSM" but what or where that is.
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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I go out of town for work for a week and come back and my 1999 F250 V10 GAS, is acting up. It started when i tried to drive it and it didn't want to shift, it would rev up to 3000+ RPMs and finally shift really hard into gear along with the speed odo not keeping up and bouncing around not wanting to work. I also had my entire gauge cluster lit up with no key and door closed. all the lights were on and it was "dinging" like the door was open and it wasn't. you would hear it when you put your ear up to the door.
So my first thought was to change the VSS (which I did) no luck. So I started wiggling wire loops under the fuse box in the cab and the "dinging" quit.. i took it for a drive and it works like nothing ever happened. Obviously I am guessing there's a short so i brought it to my mechanic and hes saying he couldn't find anything by the fuse box but he thinks its closer or even attached to the gauge cluster itself. could this be true? Why would the gauge cluster loop throw off the shift points?
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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I have a 1999 Ford F350 5.4L 4x4. I had a check engine code on my truck a couple of months ago. The truck was running fine then. The light went away and I forgot about the issue. In the last week the truck began to run like crap; hesitation during hwy speeds. The truck is running with hesitation in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. In low gears the truck seems to run just fine. I have changed the EGR valve as well as the fuel filter. Check engine light is not on but the problem has not gotten any better.
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
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Got an '01 f350 v10, auto. When using steering column shifter tends to be hard to find reverse and drive. Is it something in steering column selector or is it in tranny? The truck has 40,000 miles on it. Have a parts truck also so just trying to figure out where to start first.
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I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
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I installed a reverse camera to my new Pioneer in-dash nav head unit this morning. I wired (at the rear of the truck) the power signal lead to the reverse wire at the trailer connector. I also need to wire a reverse signal input into the back of the head unit. I really do not want to run a power lead from the rear of the truck to the cab. Is there a wire under the dash I can tap into, or could I use the wire going to the backup alarm that’s somewhere under the dash (if I can find it). 2010 F350 deisel, crew cab, 4WD, long bed.
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The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
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