Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Nozzle Clicks Off Too Early While Putting Fuel
Dec 20, 2010
I have a 2010 hyundai sonata -- I purchased brand new in May2010. I've recently been having an issue with filling up my gas tank -- the nozzle clicks off too early! I live in NJ (so i'm not pumping my own gas), so I usually tell the attendant that it should take roughly $40 worth, and they'll restart it.. but sometimes it clicks off multiple times! It's becoming more and more frequent, also! And, yesterday, I got to the point where I just told the attendant to forget it, because it clicked off 3 times in a row! But, when I started my car, I only had between half and 3/4 of a tank??
I've filled up at multiple stations and have had the same problem consistently. I commute over 100 miles a day to/from work, so I'm filling my tank every 4 or 5 days.. the car currently has a little over 20k miles on it.
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I have a 09 sonata NF. The gas pump continually clicks off while filling the tank. I saw this issue discussed here before but I cannot find it. Has to do with a vapor canister and valve?
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I worked with my buddy troubleshoot and remove a faulty fuel pump. He received it a week or so later and did the install himself. After this, he states that while pumping gas at the gas station the nozzle no longer cuts off automatically when full causing overflow. He says this has happened at different stations and different pumps. I told him to go double check connections and that everything was sealed. I am wondering what could be causing it..
2004 Passat v6 wagon auto
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Working on my cousin's 84 F150 351w HO with a Holley 4180 4bbl and auto trans.
I rebuilt the carb because of sticking floats (that and it was filthy and sitting). It fired up and I drove it to my uncle's shop a ways down the road before even adjusting anything. At the shop, it fires right up, idles great and floats and idle mixture screws are now adjusted.
It has a dead spot right off of idle that's been driving me crazy, and stalls in gear if I'm not careful with the pedal.
After reading around here, I looked down the carb to make sure the fuel was squirting as soon as the throttle moved, and noticed there was NO FUEL squirting from the nozzles. So that explains the dead spot...
There was just the needle, then the nozzles, then the screw that went in, same as they came out (only cleaner). Wondering where to go from here to get these working again. Going to pull the nozzles off and see if there's anything obvious going on in there.
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Having trouble filling car up with gas? Here for the past 2 months its been gradually getting worse. I try to fill the tank full of gas and the nozzle keeps clicking acting like its full. At first it would only click once during the fill up. Now its 5 or 6 times during the fill up.
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When I fill my 2002 VW cabrio, the fuel nozzle keeps clicking off. I took it to the service department at the dealership and the service manager told me that there is no vent tube to clean out, no carbon filter and the sensor for the ORVR is at the inside bottom of the tank and the only POSSIBLE solution would be to replace the gas tank. This doesn't feel right given the other discussions on this board. Could the dealership be misleading me?
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Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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I've been noticing this in the past week, when I'm driving about at around 5pm, the headlight would turn on if I leave the stalk on AUTO. Except it's BRIGHT daylight! Sure it's the beginning of sunset and the sun was to my side, but the amount of light is still extremely high. I see no visible difference between it and driving at noon in terms of the amount of light on the road.
Turning the lights off and on again doesn't work...The low beam does not come on when driving in the morning around 8 or noon, only in the afternoon. Even if the sunlight was shining right on the dashboard, the low beam would still be on in the afternoon.
Makes me wonder if this is a sensor calibration issue( I have nothing covering the sensor) or if it's like this by design. Making the headlight turning on extremely early so that Hyundai doesn't get sued by someone because the light "came on too late" and caused an accident. This is extremely annoying as it uses extra power to run the lights unnecessarily, and not to mention shortening the life of the bulbs. My current work around is just turning on the parking lights...sure the tail are still going to be illuminated, but better than the low beam at least.
I do want to keep the DRL on, but there is no "DRL on" option on the stalk, only "DRL off" to shut everything off. If I want DRL, but not automatic headlight, there is no way to do it, except turning on the parking lights instead.
I don't recall this issue on other brand vehicles I have owned...and about 95% of the vehicle I see coming the other way, under the same lighting condition, is running on DRL only(Assuming they have Auto headlights). What's the trigger condition for the low beam for hyundai..?
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I am having trouble fueling my car with gas. Anytime, I try to put gas in the tank, the nozzle stops after seconds of dispensing fuel. Regardless of how fast or slow the fuel is dispensed. Does the evaporative vent system come into play during this process? Or could the problem be an obstruction in the filler hose? Or possibly an anti-spill valve in the tank? we have done a little research online, and these are the questions remaining.
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I was filling up my tank, as I was running in fumes a few days ago (just 14 miles before death as per trip computer) and to my surprise, when I filled my tank, it only went roughly up to 16 gallons (15.9xx to be precise) before the nozzle kept shutting off. Was the nozzle defective (or was I in a rush for not waiting until the vapors leave the tank?) or the 18.5 gallon tank has a ~2.5 gallon reserve that even the instrument gauge doesn't account for, as it was all the way in the E with the yellow gas pump icon on?
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Fall and Winter musing about fuel efficiency...warming up the engine and thermal efficiency of the Prius
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SCC stops fine if slower car ahead stops. Seems a little risky when car ahead is already stopped (waits till the last second for brakes?).
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The problem is that it appears the torque converter is locking up so early even right after getting into second gear at speeds between 20km/h and 40km/h. This causes shuddering/rattling coming from under the hood. If I am not mistaken a torque converter should lock up at speeds 80km/h+. I've never seen this behavior on any car before. I'm not sure what kind of damage is being done either by all this shuddering and rattling going on with the transmission. I feel that this should be something that needs to be addressed via some software update. Is there any software update in regards to this issue?
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I notice the gas nozzle clicks off all the time when I am filling my truck. Normally I just hold the nozzle up more and it seems to work.
F250. Slow fuel fill or fill nozzle keeps shutting off....
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The other day was putting gas and when I replaced cap and tighten it, it no longer clicked. Is this a sign that I need a new one? So far the check engine light hasn't come on at all since this has happened.
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I have a 2000 echo that recently will not allow me to fill the gas tank unless I do it very slowly. Otherwise it continually trips the pump nozzle.
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I am having problems with suspension noice in the early mornings going over small obstacles or bumps on the road. I have complained to VW dealer and they changed something in my rear suspension, but the noice is still here. I think it is coming from the front suspension. 2006 Passat. It is usually in the am when i start the car and than goes away later.
I think this is what they did for me, but it did not fix the noice.
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I am thinking that I should go back and see about this TSB
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