Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Code PO017 And Oil Light On / Rattle Coming From Engine When Accelerated
Mar 19, 2016
Car has been running rough for a few days. Last night my engine light came on p0017. Called the dealer and they couldn't get it in until Monday. They said if the light wasn't flashing just bring it in then. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the car started much smoother and the light went off. Drove into the city and once I got to my destination the light came back on and the car was running rough again. Decided to finish up and head home. However once I got in to make the drive home I could now hear a rattle when I accelerated coming from the engine. Then the oil light would come on every time I hit the gas to accelerate. I made it home as slow as possible but when I checked the oil it's not even reading on the dip stick and the dip stick smells burnt. No oil on the floor, oil filter and plug shows no leaks. I have noticed the past few weeks that my exhaust tips are dirtier than usual and black drops were all over the rear bumper and back of the trunk. Could this thing really have blown out that much oil. I just changed the oil less tHan 1000 miles ago.
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From time to time, the engine lights comes on with error code P0365, it usually disappears within two days (it disappears by itself), but it appears once per month and stays for two days.
The code scanner says :P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
Do I need to change the sensor? and where is it located?
my Sonata is 2009, 2.0L (Korean imported) 4 cylinder ...
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2006 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl Manual Transmission. I'm getting a PO017 code - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input.
The dashboard temp gauge reaches a red H at low speeds. After about 15 minutes of driving, the car overheats and shuts down when the car slows down. I wasn't at home and didn't have coolant, so I put water in the coolant reservoir. 15 minutes later at home, the car overheated and shut down. The water in the reservoir was boiling and steaming.
When the car is idle, the radiator fan turns on immediately. I noticed the passenger side fan doesn't run. Could the one fan be the problem?
I was also really low on oil and added oil. There's oil on the engine block too. I might have multiple problems at the same time. See pics. [URL] .....
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Noticed a minor ping from my 2012 SE 2.4 when accelerating. Seemed to be less noticeable when A/C was turned off. Only have 6,500 miles on car. The oil level was down about 1/3 a quart; I topped off and will test tomorrow.
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I cant recall if these sounds were there when i first bought the car, probably because i have the radio on most times. I think the buzzing sounds were present in the last month at least.
After i start up my car and even after idling for a while, i hear a buzzing sound coming from the engine. It gets louder when I accelerate. When I let go of the gas, the buzzing sound lags for a few seconds and then quiets down a little bit, but still can hear it in the background.
I lifted the hood up to listen more closely. I am not totally sure, but i think i can also hear a faint hissing sound ( sounds like leaking air?). I cant pinpoint where it is, but its around the engine.
I also notice that when I am idle, the MPG number in the dashboard is dropping fairly quickly. Like 0.1 mpg every 20 seconds. This is new and started today. I last drove it 4 days ago and didn't notice it happening then and i watch the mpg very closely every time i drive. Could there possibly be some gas leak?
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I am a proud and recent owner of a 2015 Sonata Sport 2.0T!
Car looks amazing and am very happy with it.
But lately I have been noticing lots of drone noise coming from the engine, and a really loud cold start as well. The "cold start loudness" goes away after a little bit of driving.
Was wondering if this is just the way the 2.0T sounds, or should i get it checked?
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Been driving my Sonata 2015 2.0t for about 14 months, now. Just turned 13.5k miles. I had first noticed this issue a few months into having the car, but didn't think anything of it. At the time, I wasn't spending much time in the upper end of the rev range. Today, I finally decided that it bugs me enough to investigate.
At WOT, starting around 5500 rpm and going until redline, there is a "raspy" sound coming from the motor that I think might be predetonation, but I'm not sure. It isn't very loud, which is why I originally ignored it, but it is easily noticeable inside the car. I've made some modifications in the past few weeks (Intake, OCC, and Exhaust) so I'm starting to have a bit more fun with the car and want to make sure I get this resolved before it becomes a bigger issue.
Out of curiosity, I looked inside the catch can and noticed a couple drops of fluid (lighter in color), which was surprising since I only installed it ~50 miles ago. Any by "a couple drops" I mean maybe 3mL of fluid. Not sure if that is significant in this case, but I figured it is worth mentioning.
I'm wondering if it could just be the altitude (Denver, CO) and the stock tune is off just a bit? I've been looking into the Lap3 Uncle Chip and HKS performance plugs, but am hesitant to go any further without better understanding what might be happening.
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Last year my wife and I purchased a 2011 certified pre-owned tiguan from a local VW dealership which will stay anonymous atm. This past weekend we were driving home and noticed a rattle coming from the engine upon acceleration or around 2k-3k. The EPC light and check engine light both flash one time whenever this happens but never stay on. I scanned the car and found a pending p0341.
I know about the timing tensioner so I waited until the car cooled completely and went outside about 1am and started the car, sure enough it made the star-up rattle.
We took it back to the dealer and they diagnosed it with a failed timing chain and camshaft and are going to replace the components. I'm guessing by failed timing chain they mean the tensioner.
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I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
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I have a rattle in the dash of my 2015 Sonata Limited. Dealer had the car for three days and replaced a part in the steering column that was supposed to solve the problem unfortunately it did not. I am reluctant to bring the car back to have the dash torn apart again. Funny thing about the rattle it appears to lessen as the car warms up.
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Purchased a 2015 GtI Autobahn 4 door in Jan. Have had a rattle coming from the rear. Put set screws in the bottom shelf and removed the removable top shelf but still have the noise.
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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I just picked up a new Hyundai Santa Fe Sport, 2015. It now has about 1,400km on it and I have recently noticed a very annoying high pitched chirping rattle that is coming from somewhere in the back. I hear it inside of the car with me so I don't think there are any issues with the safety of the vehicle itself.
I notice the noise every time I drive, and more-so when the road is uneven. It sounds like a tin or metal object rattling against something else. I am not sure if the noise is coming from the back seats or the back door panels... or maybe even the tailgate. I have been trying to search similar issues but I don't know what else to do. I have a service appointment scheduled at the dealership next week but it seems that issues like this don't really get resolved because the mechanics can't pinpoint where they are coming from... or they can only offer a temporary fix. I really do not want my back seats or door panels removed so I am trying to pinpoint where the noise is coming from myself before I take it in so I can explain it to the mechanic in more detail...
When I took someone for a ride and he sat in the back seat to try and listen to the noise, it seemed to die down in sound quite a bit so that leads me to believe the seats may be the issue.
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2006 F150 Triton 5.4 Motor... It's been over a months journey with fixing this truck....
How it started: had an oil change, a while back, on long drive after, check engine light started flashing as I accelerated up hill so I pulled over and in a while it was ok, but couldn't get on the gas too much, or it would cause that flashy light thing.
So fast forward to now, after driving it with an intermittent miss for a while, was driving it to work and the miss became a shudder, and she stopped going over 30-40, and runs extremely rough.
Steady but loud idle.
Replaced all plugs with motocraft plugs and new coils all around. No change.
Finally hooked it up to a computer and got random misfires, now it's saying
P0174 bank 2 too lean,
But it's bank ONE that's the only side misfiring.
Here are the freeze frame details:
Frame 1 Mod $00
MIL Status Off
Troub Code P0174
Abslt TPS 24.3%
Eng speed 1665
Baro PRS 71 kpa
Calc Load 100%
[Code].....
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4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
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I have a 2009 Sonata (base model) with about 60,400 miles (just out of warranty). My check engine light came on, I drove for about 25 miles or so and it went away. I still took it to a shop to get the code reading, it came back as "P0449 - EVAP Vent Valve Solenoid Circuit". Guy at the shop told me I can continue to drive without any issues but I should get it checked with a dealer. The engine check light is not on anymore.
I took it the dealer and they told me they will charge me $145 to run another diagnostic (they can not use the one I have from Auto Zone). And then on top of that, whatever they need to do, they will charge for that. And since I am out of warranty (barely) I will have to pay out of my pocket.
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I have check engine light comes on first and after driving a few hundred miles later, light goes off. I drive the car for awhile about a few hundred miles and light comes on again. Basically on an off. AutoZone looked at it and got an error P2273 - it means oxygen sensor stuck rich. They told me to keep fuel tank cap tight. or something else may be defective. I have been driving last two years like this having engine light on and off. I do not see any engine performance difference.
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My sonata's check engine light came on today. I went to auto zone and they told me it was code p0711. From what I researched it seems to be the transmission fluid senor. Our other car had the check engine light come on last week.
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How much white smoke do you see coming out of the muffler? I've been seeing it while idling at stop light in my mirrors, and also see it in my backup camera while backing up. This is happening when the engine is already in normal operating temperature.
Been reading google and getting panicky about white smoke meaning that coolant is leaking and getting burned in the engine.
When you check your coolant reservoir, where between the F and the L is it normally supposed to be when the engine is Hot, or Cold?
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I recently bought a 2007 Hyundai Sonata Limited from a private seller. This car has been perfect for the few weeks I've had it. Now, my check engine light came up and the error code "P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit / Open Bank 1" popped up. I'm not really sure what piece to look for, or which connectors to check.
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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