Tiguan :: Rattle Coming From Engine Upon Acceleration Or Around 2k To 3k - Pending Code P0341
May 16, 2016
Last year my wife and I purchased a 2011 certified pre-owned tiguan from a local VW dealership which will stay anonymous atm. This past weekend we were driving home and noticed a rattle coming from the engine upon acceleration or around 2k-3k. The EPC light and check engine light both flash one time whenever this happens but never stay on. I scanned the car and found a pending p0341.
I know about the timing tensioner so I waited until the car cooled completely and went outside about 1am and started the car, sure enough it made the star-up rattle.
We took it back to the dealer and they diagnosed it with a failed timing chain and camshaft and are going to replace the components. I'm guessing by failed timing chain they mean the tensioner.
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I have just over 10K on my tig and about 1000 miles ago i noticed a rattle pop up. sounds like its coming from the divers side in the engine bay, thinking maybe battery cover? Before I've found the battery cover not clamped down all the way and heard a similar rattle, now the battery cover is snapped tight but I still hear a rattle?
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I own an 04 Hyundai Elantra with around 196,000 miles on it, and have run across a problem I haven't had to deal with before. A few days ago, my check engine light came on while driving. I didn't really notice much, but when I started it again it began idling roughly. I got it home and pulled the code, which was P0341 (camshaft position sensor). This isn't the first sensor I've had go on the car (I replaced an oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor a couple years ago), however I ran into two problems:
1. How likely is it that it's the sensor that's bad as opposed to something like the timing belt or VVT adjustment?
2. Since the sensor isn't horribly expensive, I decided to try replacing it, but I can't get any socket to fit on the bolt that secures it. I've heard it's a 10mm, but nothing seems to fit snugly. Maybe there's just so much crud and corrosion that it's ruined the head. I tried using an extraction socket, but no luck.
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Code 0341 (cam sensor?)On my way home epc light flashed about 5-7 times and message saying service engine. 111,000 miles and just had intake manifold replaced and plugs and coils not to long ago. I have been feeling a slight hiccup at cruising speed and twice my gti has just shut off while driving. New fuel filter as well. I searched the forum and didn't come up with anything specific. Can I just replace the cam sensor or is there more to it than that.
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My 2003 Camry with 160k miles is running OK but the check engine light came on and P0341, P0352 and P0354 are displayed with my code checker. I looked up the three codes and could not determine anything that would cause all three codes to display at the same time. I plan to reset the codes to see if and how fast they come back. Is there anything common that could cause all three to display at the same time?
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I took a one owner 2009 with 100,00 miles for a pre-inspection today. All came back in fairly good shape however the mechanic ( an independent shop ) found this error code P1455. I took the car back to the dealer & said I was interested in the car if they looked into whether the gas tank would need to be replaced. The parts manager gave my husband and I a long speech about how they checked the car before it was traded in and never found this code. He explained that the code has to appear twice for the " check engine light " to come on. He told us he would take the car for a test drive himself & put it thru another diagnostic test to see if he could get another error reading. He will be getting back to us tomorrow. The dealer also said we could discuss in writing a timeline for them to repair it if the check engine light come on & ultimately a repair is needed.
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1999 ranger 2.5. 135k!So I started with a tune up all motorcraft, fuel filter and air filter. Did nothing! So I did compression check all cyc 150psi and above. So I did leakdown, had air leak at dip stick and valve cover, So I asumed head gasket. Pulled head and found 3 head bolts on passenger side had carbon deposit bluid up really bad, So replaced head gasket all surfaces clean and flat. Still didn't fix it!! My symptoms are better than before hd but still have a engine shake and flashing cel at 55 plus mph and p0303 pending! Coils tested good but going change them any way tonight!I'm stuck on this one checked everything 3 times and then again...
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Car has been running rough for a few days. Last night my engine light came on p0017. Called the dealer and they couldn't get it in until Monday. They said if the light wasn't flashing just bring it in then. So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the car started much smoother and the light went off. Drove into the city and once I got to my destination the light came back on and the car was running rough again. Decided to finish up and head home. However once I got in to make the drive home I could now hear a rattle when I accelerated coming from the engine. Then the oil light would come on every time I hit the gas to accelerate. I made it home as slow as possible but when I checked the oil it's not even reading on the dip stick and the dip stick smells burnt. No oil on the floor, oil filter and plug shows no leaks. I have noticed the past few weeks that my exhaust tips are dirtier than usual and black drops were all over the rear bumper and back of the trunk. Could this thing really have blown out that much oil. I just changed the oil less tHan 1000 miles ago.
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Our car has been throwing a low boost code. We replaced the dv valve, pcv was just replaced but code still comes up. It's been making this noise that has arised with the code. It will do it down hill from 1500 to 2400. Just a constant rattle.
What do we do from here? Fix rod? New wastegate? New turbo?
[URL]......
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Has rattle that sounds like it is coming from the centre of the dash? It sounds like a piece of tin sheet metal is rattling faintly. I wouldn't think a fuel line rattle would sounds like that, but maybe I am incorrect? Putting pressure on the dash with your hand doesn't seem to make it stop.
We also get the creek in the l/h side that I had assumed prior that it was from the door seal when the body flexes.
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I believe I have a spark plug issue although I am assured that they have been replaced in enough time to not have a problem. I'm am having acceleration issues, losing power over time, misfires and engine deceleration. I also now have a rattle that sounds like it is coming from my muffler only upon acceleration. It seems to be getting louder over time as well. This coupled with a rough idle and an over heated engine when the ac was on its cause for worry. Could the rattle be connected?
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I recently purchase a 2011 Sonata. It sounds like there is a rattle in acceleration coming from the exhaust (passenger rear)
I had the just alignment professionally checked, and it's spot on, but it seems to pull to the left still.
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I have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?
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I recently replaced my MAF on the car with part number 06A 906 461 A which is not the 07D 906 461 part number. I take it that this is wrong because i am getting power surging in the car at WOT and I have a pending DTC code P0103.
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Engine/transmission metal rattle noise. I have a SEL w/auto and I hear a metal rattle noise under light acceleration when it shifts from 6th to 5th, 5th to 4th and usually between 1500 to 2000 RPM. I took it into vw to check and a couple guys drove it and said everything is in normal operating condition. It only has 1700 miles and it has made the noise since I picked it up. I had a GTI before this so I am familiar with the engine but I had a manual.
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I have a 2004 F150 5.4L 2WD auto. I had the cam phasers and timing cover done at the end of 2014 and the truck was great. Back in december, I parked the truck and when I started it the next morning, there was a horrible miss. I left it parked a month or two, then tried starting it up last week. Nothing.
So I had it towed to the shop. They found the starter was bad, and the only code it was throwing was P0341... Cam sensor bank 2. I had it towed back to my house, replaced the starter and the grounds and fired it up. It had the worst miss on the planet and died shortly after being started. I replaced both cam sensors, and now it starts right up and runs... but still has a bad miss.
I used my scanner and its still throwing A P0341 code almost instantly. It sounds like a bad miss that slightly gets better when you give it gas... but its not throwing any misfire codes or anything.
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I have a 2004 Camry with what is the most odd noise I've ever heard. The noise sounds like a cross between water trickling over stones and maybe bearings rolling around in a tube, or maybe someone crinkling paper. It sounds like it is coming from inside the dashboard, or maybe just beyond the firewall in the engine compartment.
It tends to occur when the vehicle is stopped and is just starting to accelerate from a stop. It can also occur when the vehicle is breaking to a stop. It doesn't sound like break pads (not grinding metal-on-metal sound).
At a stop, I can shift the automatic transmission into neutral and rev the engine a little and the sound will occur, but it doesn't seem to be dependent on any specific RPM nor does it co-vary based on increases or decreases in RPM. Basically, when I rev, the sound simply occurs. It is of variable intensity and duration, and is very random in peak of volume and sequence of noises. If I didn't know better, I'd swear there was a chipmunk under the hood (I looked, there isn't.)
I drive the car daily, but my regular trip to work is very short so the car runs for no more than 5 minutes each morning. In a five minute drive, with 4 stop sign/lights, the noise will occur basically every time I accelerate.
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06' F150 4x4 XLT SCrew 29K-mi
I have a rattle of some sort I can hear coming from underneath towards the rear while under acceleration. Usually hear mostly at certain RPM and not through entire accel to hwy speed. Do not hear it while in Park and reving engine, but on the road I hear it. Mostly I think after it gets hot or something.
No driveability issue only rattle? While I was reving in Park I could hear a bubbling after I let off the pedal. Is that normal. I don't think it is the same noise/rattle.
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I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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A Little Background, my FICM wasn't bad per se but it would dip below 45 volts when the outside temp was around freezing. I pulled it and sent it for repair at the same time the Atlas 40 tune was loaded into the FICM.
First few days of driving mileage was better, truck ran great. All of a sudden one day pulling into the driveway it randomly shutoff. Two occasions since it has acted goofy at started, bucking a little a low throttle. Mileage has returned to how it was before I had the FICM fixed and ATLAS tune applied. To this point I had no codes at all.
Now today it randomly throws P0341 - Camshaft sensor out of range.
So heres the question - do I replace the sensor or try to get at the harness for inspection? Out of range would usually mean the sensor itself is failing while open circuit is usually wiring related. I know its uncommon for this particular sensor to fail but i'm not sure which direction to go.
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I am having serious problems with my 2003 Santa Fe 2WD 2.7. First, about two months ago, I would have typical crankshaft position sensor problems whenever it would rain outside and my car would not start or if it did it would eventually stall while driving. Before stalling, the engine light would come on with code P0335 and the engine would shake. I did my best not to drive it during these moments and was always able to get it back home. The problem went away after a couple days of issues until recently.
About a week ago, the P0335 code came back with associated symptoms; however, this time it would not go away. It is worth noting however that I am in Portland Oregon and it is raining non-stop this time of the year. I am not a mechanic, but my neighbor used to be and he carefully guided me through replacing my Crankshaft Position Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor, and several spark plugs.
After all of this work, my car turns over and starts for maybe a second, where before it would not even fully turn over in my driveway. It immediately dies after the second and then I can not get it to start up again unless I charge the battery for a bit or hook it up to another car and even then its only that initial second of start up. Additionally, there are no longer any codes or check engine light, but there is a "pending p0335" on my neighbors reader. I thought maybe my crankshaft sensor was defective, so I got a second one and it is still the same deal.
It is also worth noting that I do not see any tachometer movement during start up. When we replaced the Crankshaft sensor the old one was destroyed. The wires on it were either burnt up or the plastic coating had decayed away almost completely; thus the reason it was shorting out.
My car has all new belts done through a dealership as of 10 months ago, so I doubt it is related to the timing belt. My neighbor thinks it may be bad fuel, although I always get good fuel and I also doubt this is the case. During key-on you can hear the fuel pump start up and other components all working normally, so it is unlikely related to that.
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