Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 - Battery Light Blown 150 Amp Fuse
Sep 4, 2014
I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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The first time installing my hid without a relay harness was a fail. One side keep coming on and off and I gave up went back to stock after it blew out my fuse. This time I tried using using the same kit with a relay harness and it was good for about 10-15 mins and then it starts flickering then both side went off. Pulled over and realized my fuse blew out again. I am having real bad luck with hid, or is it a bad kit?? I love hid but it's really causing me a headache. Can my 2014 Camry not handle HID or what? New kit?? Car can't handle hid?? Why does my fuse keep blowing?!! My kit is opt7 by the way.
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Short, the dome and interior light fuse keeps blowing. Car is 2009 hyundai sonata nf. Is the bcm computer gone? The fuse pops as soon as i put a fuse in the car. The car can be off or on..it doesn't matter.
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I have a 2002 Camry... So I stupidly connected the battery backwards, negative to positive, etc... Now there's no electrical at all, no dashboard lights, nothing. I see the 100a fuse is blown. Does this signify that the rest of my car was protected ? Will replacing that fuse probably fix the problem or when the battery is connected backwards does the rest of the electric get fried as well ?
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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I got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
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Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
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A few years back, we had the unfortunate luck of have the Crank Position Sensor fail in our 2004 Sante Fe. The sensor failed again 2 years later. Most recently, it broke down again, and acted the same as it did when the CPS went....upon deceleration and braking, it lost power and began to chug before it finally shut off. This time, the ECU 20 amp fuse blew, and the engine light came on.
It had been raining heavily the day prior, so we thought that the ECU or harness got wet. It sat for a few days, and when we started it with the new fuse, it ran just fine, with the exception of the engine light remaining on. Wife drove it to work tonight, and the fuse popped again. Given that the engine light is on, could the failure be due to an emissions control sensor or it's wiring shorting out?
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I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
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Weird deal here, the backup light fuse blows on a 1999 Neon and the AC quits blowing cold. I replace the fuse and the AC starts blowing cold. I found out this is the #8 fuse, 10 amp and it controls the rear window heat, fan relay, ac cycling switch and backup lights.
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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I have to press Cancel before I can get my cruise control to work. I had a problem about a year ago where my cruise control wasn't working, and found out that a blown brake light fuse was the problem. Now I turn my CC on and the "Cruise" light comes on, I then press the set button, and nothing. I then press the cancel button and then the set button and then the "Set" light comes on.
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I noticed I was not shifting into 4x4 electronically and replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment. Now the 4x4 light goes on, but I don't think it is engaging the system...
The back end breaks free very easily, but there seems to be a little pull in the front. Is it possible to have unequal power to the wheels?
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I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
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Driving home from work around 10pm. Leo started explaining that i had no taillights on but the brakes worked. He was right. I came home and found out my parking light fuse under the steering column was blown. I replaced the mini 10-amp fuse with a spare and they started working again. Then later, they stopped working again. Only thing i have installed electronic upgrade wise is after market LED fog lights(which went out with the parking lights but both came back on with the new fuse) and Navi bypass. What could it be?????
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I have a fuse blowing in my 98 Citation that is in the panel light/exterior running lights (front and back). Could the short be in the dimmer switch in the dashboard or is that unlikely?
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I just purchased a 2011 Sonata. The low beams are not working and I am trying to diagnose the problem before I take it to the dealer in case it's just a blown fuse or bad relay. I have read through the owners manual and looked at both fuse compartments for the fuse and relays and to no avail. So, looking for the location of the low beam fuse and relay? I know there has to be a fuse for the headlights somewhere lol. Maybe I am missing it because of an abbreviation or something. What is the fuse name and I can go from there.
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just got finished putting her back together from a blown intake manifold gasket and run for a few miles to get rid of any cob webs and then my battery light comes on. just replaced the battery last week. and I tested the alternator and it charging at 14.5 volts bat reads when disconnected 12.9 volts so I am not sure why my battery light will come on.
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2011 Sonata. One Fob not detected. Tried other Fob also not detected. I suspected this was not a coincidence but replaced both batteries anyway. Still key not detected. Cars starts and runs fine using alternate start method by placing fob in console. Where is my problem??
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