My brake booster is making noise for a few months now. It works ok and brakes are strong but the noise is there. Any way to quiet it down? Or how much the replacement might cost?
View 1 RepliesEngine make a sucking noise when turned off? My engine sounds fine but when I open the hood and turn it off I can hear it make a sucking sound almost like its releasing pressure. I can only hear it when im outside and someone turns the car off. Is this normal? Also, how often do you all add coolant? I added mine to full maybe like 5 months ago and today when I added oil to the car it was down to the halfway mark. I hadn't run the car all day and just moved it inside the garage. Does the car not running make the fluid drop or could I have a leak?
View 5 RepliesBrake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
View 3 RepliesEvery time when i accelerate, there is a 'blade spinning sound' coming out from the engine, i noticed it when my car hit around 5k miles, now it's about 7300 miles. any idea what that is? could be the belt problem?
The second noise is a constant 'locking' sound comes from back passenger side. when I locked all doors, (especially in quiet night makes noticeable) about every 10 minus, the door kept making a 'locking' sound, it sounds the latch and the lock can't fully attached each other, and the door has to constantly reboot the auto-lock system.
What are the issues of these two annoying sounds?
I changed my tires, brakes and rotors last August. I had installed EBC YellowStuff. I also greased(using SilGlyde) the slide pins and bled the brakes.
Last weekend, my car was making a weird noise when I hit the brake, so I removed the front tires and noticed that the front passenger side outer brake pad was completely gone and the inner brake pad still had 25% life left, but it was tapered(image attached).
I know when this happens, usually it means that the slide pins need to be greased, but they were plenty greased from my last year's brake change. I still greased them, but now I hear grinding noise frequently(not all the time) when I am accelerating at slow speed and sometimes at even high speeds.
There is no fluid leaking and I could only see surface rust on the pistons. Its driving me crazy, because I can't figure out what it is. I am thinking of just replacing the slide pins anyway to be on the safe side.
Two months ago I started getting a clanking noise from the right front when I accelerated from a stop, or stopped and moved the car backwards from forwards or vice versa. I pulled the wheel and noticed pretty work brake pads, with the inboard pad completely shot. Car has 34k miles. The left side inboards and outboards were about 50% worn and were worn evenly. Sure enough, I had a sticking lower slide pin on the right. I cleaned everything up and lubed all contact points, and replaced pads and clips. I removed, cleaned and re-lubed all slide pins and holes with the appropriate silicone brake lube, and confirmed that they are siding freely. The problem is that this worked, but did not completely eliminate the problem. The noise still happens about 1 out of every 5-10 starts once the car starts to roll after the brake pedal is released. The rim seems to rotate ok when jacked up and I am not getting a pull. A mechanic buddy of mine said that in these cases he just ends up replacing the whole caliper.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2012 sonata that has issues from day one. ?
New issue is: For a couple days now I've noticed a crackle noise when I break. It is only when I am coming to a complete stop that the noise happens, not the full time i actually have foot on break.
Not thinking it is the bearings. Thinking it may be something within my suspension.
Just got a 2012 Limited 2.0T about 3 weeks ago. Didn't notice until last week that there is a noise coming from drivers front tire area at low speed (15-20mph). It sounds like a thin piece a metal is getting snagged and then snapping back into place. Took it back to Hyundai and they pulled the wheel and said everything looks fine and that it's due to new brakes needing to "wear in". At the time it was very limited when you would hear it, in the past week it's increased to an almost constant noise until I get over 20mph. I've searched and can't find anything dealing with this particular noise, what exactly I should look for when I pull everything apart? I'm more inclined to try and fix myself than believe the dealer. I can't seem to isolate it to a particular thing when driving, it does it on turns, going straight, stopping, accelerating.
View 9 RepliesMy wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesI'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
View 2 RepliesAfter replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
View 5 RepliesHow do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
My 97 F-150 (4.6 L) has developed what sounds like a vacuum leak under the driver's side dash somewhere above the pedals. I can't see anything obvious. It changes sound with various positions of the brake pedal, and I can make it stop with hard acceleration for a few seconds. The brake pedal feels the same. I'm assuming the problem is probably my brake booster, right? Or should I be looking elsewhere? If so, how hard is it to replace?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 960 station wagon and a brake booster that appears to be leaking. On the passenger side of the firewall. As close as I can tell the leak seems to be right where the gaitor (rubber covering a rod) is.
1995 960 Wagon
i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
View 4 RepliesBrake pedal whistles and is hard to push. Only happens intermittently. Mechanic wants to put new brake booster on. This would be 3rd brake booster in 9mos. It's gotta be something else. What does the vacuum hose connect to from the check valve; where on the intake manifold? If no PVC valve...then what else? Truck runs fine...no fast idle or rough idle and no hesitation.
View 4 RepliesI need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
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The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
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Was wondering if it is safe to use seafoam through my brake booster vacumm line? If I drip it in SLOW can I still hydrolock my engine?
View 15 RepliesThe power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
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