Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 - Brake Noise From Driver Front Side
Jul 10, 2016
Just got a 2012 Limited 2.0T about 3 weeks ago. Didn't notice until last week that there is a noise coming from drivers front tire area at low speed (15-20mph). It sounds like a thin piece a metal is getting snagged and then snapping back into place. Took it back to Hyundai and they pulled the wheel and said everything looks fine and that it's due to new brakes needing to "wear in". At the time it was very limited when you would hear it, in the past week it's increased to an almost constant noise until I get over 20mph. I've searched and can't find anything dealing with this particular noise, what exactly I should look for when I pull everything apart? I'm more inclined to try and fix myself than believe the dealer. I can't seem to isolate it to a particular thing when driving, it does it on turns, going straight, stopping, accelerating.
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My driver side brake light keeps going out. I replaced the bulb couple of months ago and had to replace it again. Switch the socket? Switch to led bulbs?
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Whenever my car go over a bump or uneven road, it causes a thumping noise in the rear driver. I have ultra racing rear sway.
I have re-lubricated the bushing, and changed the oem end links to moog.
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Have little wind noise on the driver side door up by the top. My wife's 2010 elantra has it and dealer couldn't hear it.
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Two months ago I started getting a clanking noise from the right front when I accelerated from a stop, or stopped and moved the car backwards from forwards or vice versa. I pulled the wheel and noticed pretty work brake pads, with the inboard pad completely shot. Car has 34k miles. The left side inboards and outboards were about 50% worn and were worn evenly. Sure enough, I had a sticking lower slide pin on the right. I cleaned everything up and lubed all contact points, and replaced pads and clips. I removed, cleaned and re-lubed all slide pins and holes with the appropriate silicone brake lube, and confirmed that they are siding freely. The problem is that this worked, but did not completely eliminate the problem. The noise still happens about 1 out of every 5-10 starts once the car starts to roll after the brake pedal is released. The rim seems to rotate ok when jacked up and I am not getting a pull. A mechanic buddy of mine said that in these cases he just ends up replacing the whole caliper.
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I have this noticeable creaking noise that pops up every now and then on the front passenger side of the car. Problem is it is hard to replicate to the dealer. I usually notice it going over dips at some times, and most when I make a right turn into a raised road. Otherwise, not a peep out of the car.
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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I got my Sonata at 27k, its now at 76k and the cars been great although I had the following issues.
I've noticed sometimes when I startup and shift into reverse the car jerks a bit and its not a smooth transition. However other times the car is very fluid in switching gears. Should I take it in to have a look at it?
Also when I am turning onto a unleveled road (usually a higher road), I notice a creaking/knocking noise coming from the front of the car, also notice it when I reverse into a parking space sometimes.
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Noticed a squeaking like noise coming from their from front drivers side wheel when turning left? Seems to only do it right after driving my car after it has been sitting for a bit. Can't make it in to Hyundai until next week, and I'm a little worried.
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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I have a problem with the steering. Sometimes a clicking noise is coming out from the front left side when I sharply turn the wheels or hit the brake. The car was in a local garage today and they couldn't find the problem. 2 mechanics checked the suspension, cv joint, axle, wheel bearing... also 1 of them driven the car and found nothing. Tomorrow I show them the clip below.
Hyundai Sonata Steering Noise - YouTube ....
What it could be?
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
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I have a 2012 Sonata for 4 years. In the past year I've experienced the ABS, Brake, TC lights staying on. Then had a bad battery and a headlight go out. Got all that done but after 4 months on new battery, it failed, and the 3 lights came on again. According to codes, dealer says the issue is a valve and they cannot give an estimate for repair but to tear down the valve and probe to find it, will cost me $132. That doesn't set well with me so I elected to drive on with lights on. They did say the battery & headlight issues were not related to the 3 lights staying on.
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I have a 2012 Sonata - My Drivers side Headlight (LO) went out (HI still works). I replaced it w/ not 1, but 2 bulbs (Sylvania XtraVision H7 from auto parts store), and in each instance - the LO does not work, and the HI does. I have read that it could be the B + 2 fuse. IF the fuse is OK, and the wiring shows no wear or rust...
Side note --- The Passenger side headlight - BOTH LO and HI - works OK.
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I have the same problem as in the youtube video. It is my 2011 Sonata SE with smart key. I have 100k Miles and checked with the dealership and they said no recalls on my car.
[URL] ....
Wondering what the problem is? Is it just the Actuator or Lock and Actuator Latch Assembly both?
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I have a 2011 sonata with 72000 Km on it. As I am driving at highway speeds I notice a rattle from the drivers side towards the door. I can't quite locate where but have tried pushing trim and I can't stop it. Took it to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong and no rattle. On a trip yesterday I noticed the rattle stopped as I braked. So I then applied very light pressure on the brake pedal. So light it did not come off cruise. And the rattle stops. What is the likely cause? I want to be prepared with some ideas when I take it back to the dealer.
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I bought a 6000K HID kit from Xenon Supply, the one specifically designed for the Sonata and I'm having a few issues. The driver side headlight "bounces" when I go over rough roads. I haven't really noticed anything from the passenger side. I took the driver side bulb out, re installed it and made sure it was secure, but the same problem exists. The bulb is moving around under the retaining clip when I drive over rough roads.
Also, now its blowing fuses. I took the entire kit out and reinstalled it, checked all the connections, but for some reason the kit is blowing the 20 amp fuse that came with the kit.
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I got in my 2011 Sonata today to go to work and my driver side door won't lock either electrically or manually. The other 3 doors lock and unlock just fine. I'm really concerned because I can't even lock it manually by pressing the lock in. How to fix this anomaly?
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I have 2012 sonata and she has about 43000 miles. I replaced 4 tires at 40000 miles. Soon after, steering wheel used to shake when I apply brake. So, I got front rotors resurfaced and got new front brake pads which solved the problem of steering wheel shaking. I also got alignment right after installing brake pad.
Since last week, I realized there is a vibration coming from front of my car when driving over 30 mph to about 70 mph.The vibration is present randomly and weird thing is that the vibration stops immediately when I apply brake. What may cause this problem?
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I have Shark Racing type 2 rear bumper reflectors. The drivers side only comes on now when I lock the car. How I can check for power to the reflector itself to make sure all is fine at the reflector. I suspect the problem will in inside the reflector. I am sure it would be a pain to try to fix one internally.
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