Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2012 - ABS / Brake And TC Lights Staying On
Sep 25, 2016
I have a 2012 Sonata for 4 years. In the past year I've experienced the ABS, Brake, TC lights staying on. Then had a bad battery and a headlight go out. Got all that done but after 4 months on new battery, it failed, and the 3 lights came on again. According to codes, dealer says the issue is a valve and they cannot give an estimate for repair but to tear down the valve and probe to find it, will cost me $132. That doesn't set well with me so I elected to drive on with lights on. They did say the battery & headlight issues were not related to the 3 lights staying on.
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I've been lowered on coils for the past 6 months. I have been running aftermarket wheels since day one. I switched wheels out and lowered a little in the front. Drove it yesterday morning at 10am,and all three lights came on. Stopped turned the car off and turned it back on and all the lights went away. Drove the car at 6pm and the lights came on. Stopped turned off and on and the lights are gone. Don't know whats going on . The cables that I believe are the abs/ speed sensors are fine no rubbing on the passenger side the wire circled looked like it was at a weird angle but idk. Drove it this morning and no lights. No clue whats going on.
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My son parked the car and I noticed the brake lights were on. After depressing and releasing the pedal a few times the lights go off, then 2 or 3 seconds later, they're back on even when the pedal is released. This happened all of a sudden. I'll pull the switch in the morning and test it, but what else could it be but the switch, right?
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My cruise control works just fine when my headlights are off as do my brake lights, but when i turn the lights on the cruise won't engage and the brake lights don't work. I've got 150K on the car so no longer under warranty...
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I have 2012 sonata and she has about 43000 miles. I replaced 4 tires at 40000 miles. Soon after, steering wheel used to shake when I apply brake. So, I got front rotors resurfaced and got new front brake pads which solved the problem of steering wheel shaking. I also got alignment right after installing brake pad.
Since last week, I realized there is a vibration coming from front of my car when driving over 30 mph to about 70 mph.The vibration is present randomly and weird thing is that the vibration stops immediately when I apply brake. What may cause this problem?
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Just got a 2012 Limited 2.0T about 3 weeks ago. Didn't notice until last week that there is a noise coming from drivers front tire area at low speed (15-20mph). It sounds like a thin piece a metal is getting snagged and then snapping back into place. Took it back to Hyundai and they pulled the wheel and said everything looks fine and that it's due to new brakes needing to "wear in". At the time it was very limited when you would hear it, in the past week it's increased to an almost constant noise until I get over 20mph. I've searched and can't find anything dealing with this particular noise, what exactly I should look for when I pull everything apart? I'm more inclined to try and fix myself than believe the dealer. I can't seem to isolate it to a particular thing when driving, it does it on turns, going straight, stopping, accelerating.
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited, and have had no problems with it until now - the low gas light came on while I drove to work with the fuel gauge showing more than half a tank just before that.
I stopped at a gas station and put $10 of gas in just to be sure it wasn't wrong, but started it up again and the light stayed on.
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I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
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Having issues with the rear tail lights will not shut off when you turn off the car? This all happened at the same time but I'm not sure what it is???
1. The traction control dash light comes on and stays on.
2. The cruise control stopped working.
3. The rear tail lights won't shut off even when the car is off.
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I have 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE V6, 72k. Out of warranty. Problem is parking lights does not turn off when I turn off the car and take the key out. I have to play with the switch from On to Auto many times in order to turn them off. Sounds like stuck relay. I also have "auto switch off" feature which is supposed to turn off everything when I open the driver’s door AND the key is out. This does not turn off the lights as well. Lately it is very difficult to turn them off, especially when the car has been running for some time. Brake switch as per the recall has been changed in the past.
I went to the dealership, paid $110 for diagnostics and they said I need to replace the junction fuse box in the engine compartment - I found such a box for less and replaced it myself. Problem still exist. After reading some more online, the forums said that the parking relay is integrated in the other junction/fuse box – the one under the left front dash (91950-3K560).
Can this box be opened and fixed? Is there another solution other than replacing the fuse box?
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Happened to pop into my garage tonight and notice my brake lights on my 04 GLX won't turn off. I checked to make sure I didn't leave the main lights on or anything else I can think of. The only way I could get the lights to stay of was to pull fuse 13.
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My brake lights are staying on all the time. I changed my brake light switch. This did not work. I took it to the dealer and they could not figure out what was causing this. They felt it could be a wire which might take them 10 hours to trace down @ $95 an hour. I don't understand how a wire could do this.
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The car is off yet the brake lights stay on.
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My son's 08 1500 2WD truck has had problems with the cruise control not working correctly. Think I found out why, was following him today, and his brake lights came on. He was on an open road, no traffic, so I called him and asked if he was riding the brake with his left foot. He said No. Told him what I saw, and when he came to a red light, I told him to stab the brake 2 or 3 times, then let up. No change, brake lights stayed lit. He pulled into a lot, and unplugged the connector on the brake pedal arm. Then he turned on the key, brake lights were still on. Connector has 4 wires, I guessed one circuit for brake lights, one for cruise? Or is one for the transmission interlock solenoid that prevents shifting out of Park until you press the brake pedal? Getting ready to go check things with a voltmeter.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4X4 extended cab with short box with a 5.3L. A couple weeks ago I noticed that my brake lights were staying on all the time. I removed the fuses for the trailer left and right lights and the brake lights went out. due to the holidays I haven't had time to find out why the lights were staying on.
Today I noticed that my 3rd brake light was staying on all the time, even with the truck off, and no one in the truck, and my electric brake controller inside the cab was on. I unplugged the controller from the fuse panel and the controller light went out but the 3rd brake light was still on. I couldn't find a fuse, so I removed the bulbs. Where I would start to find the problem.
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The first time I replaced a battery. It has run flawlessly until now. (Approx 57,000 miles) It is equipped with a push button start. FOB works fine to unlock doors, etc. I depressed the brake pedal and pushed the start button. Instrument panel lit up as normal, but there was no cranking. Nav comes on. Everything "looks" fine, but there is no engine activity.
I tried: I read a post where the person "rocked" the car back and forth several times and it ultimately started. Simple and immediate enough to try. No luck. A jump start. It didn't. Held start button for 30 seconds then attempted to start. No go. Did same with foot on brake.
Inserted FOB into the "smart key holder" inside the center console and attempted to start. Nada - Attempted this because for one brief second during jumping process, panel flashed a message saying FOB not recognized then went away. Car responds to FOB just fine).
Inserted FOB in center console again following the instructions in this post. Didn't work. The brake pedal is solid. I read this is most likely because vacuum pressure did not build when the engine did not run.
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My 2012 SONTA GLS has about 200 miles and pulling RIGHT and having very difficult time dealing with Hyundai...
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I bought this car about three months ago. And got alignment done twice. Thought may be first time he didn't do properly. After alignment second time, having same issue.
Car pulls to left. I have to keep steering wheel pulling to the right all the time. When I leave it. It slightly turns to left. And car starts going to left.
But in even roads it turns to left. Where some roads are tilting to right. Steering wheel turns to left as usual. But car goes straight. If I take my foot of the accelerator it does less. But when I accelerate or have cruise control ON on freeway it does this more.
From home to destination my hand always pulling steering wheel to right. I have also rotated the tyres. Alignment is done twice. What can be the problem.
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I purchased an 2012 Sonata GLS a couple months ago. Yesterday I decided to do an oil change, so I brought out my ramps and proceeded to drive up on them, the ramps are about 4 feet long so I have to be careful how much I accelerate to make sure I don't go over them, as I was driving up on them I noticed that even though I was in drive if I took my foot off the gas the car would immediately roll backwards off the ramp. I'm curious to see from other owners if this is normal behavior? The 2013 Altima I had was able to drive up the ramps and if I took my foot off the gas it would stay put. I also notice when I'm backing out and I switch to drive the car still moves backwards a little bit even though I just switched to drive - again I'm not sure if this is normal behavior since I've never had this issue with other cars I've owned.
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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I have a problem that before was working fine, I don't know if i disabled it or something. But my proximity key when i used to approach the car and press that small button on door handles would open my doors. Now that button don't work. I have a feeling i pressed something.
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