Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Key FOB Will Not Unlock The Car
Dec 2, 2013
I dropped my Audi A4 for a 2011 Sonata. Hyundai has come a long ways.
I am having one problem with my car though. Both of my key fobs work for a few minutes after the car is turned off. Then they will not unlock the car. When I hit unlock the lights come on inside, but it does not unlock the doors. The lights come on with the fob regardless of how long it has been since I started the car. If I unlock the car with my keys the car alarm goes off and the engine is immobilized. I can then get out of the car, lock it with the key and unlock it again and it works. I can also start the car if I unlock the door and wait a couple of minutes before I attempt to start the car.
After this the key fobs work again for about two minutes after the car is turned off. The key fob batteries are new and the car has a brand new battery. The dealer replaced the central locking mechanism thinking that was the problem. It did not resolve the issue.
My car is a 2011 Sonata GLS with nav/dimesion. I have 55K miles on it and still have warranty.
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Right i have a question about my fogs, Is it possible to have the fog lights come on when i unlock the car? I have HID kit in my fog lights and they are a cool blue colour. Would love them to switch on automatically when i unlock the car, but only for like 10 seconds though. How to do this?
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I have just purchased a 2013 Sonata and the interior lights (dome, vanity, etc.) will not come on at night when you unlock and enter the car. Yes, I have checked the switch and that is not the issue. It works during the day and has been tested at the dealership twice since I purchased within the last week. This issue only happens at night. If I switch the actual dome switch to on, the interior lights will come on after 5-6 minutes when I am in the car. Very frustrated at this point as the dealer cannot recreate the issue, but the issue obviously exists.
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For my '13 GLS, I leave my fob in the center dash box compartment, and lock the doors using the button on the door. Sometimes when I unlock the door w/my key, the alarm goes off. Why is that, and how can I prevent that w/out having to carry around my fob?
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Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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My 2013 Sonata, just out of the blue decided the driver side door push button wouldn't work anymore. it seems like it gets stuck when it's depressed, I can manually "pop" it back out and press the button and the doors lock/unlock but becomes stuck again.
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Is there a trick to getting the feature to unlock all doors when you stop and take the key out to work - mine works intermittent and I have to go back into the menus and turn it back on...
this is on 2011 Tiguan SE 4 motion (Nav and Sunroof)
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Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
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Parked my car in freezing temperatures overnight and noticed the door handle's unlock button is frozen and does not work. Was still frozen after my 45 minute drive to work. Try spraying it overnight with windshield washer to prevent freezing and ice damage?
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Lock/unlock button on door handle failed? Over the past couple of weeks mine has iced up a couple of times. I'm pretty sure water is getting behind the button and freezing. Now it seems like the button only works intermittently, and it definitely has a spongy feel to it when you press it. Off to the dealer I guess. Though if it's because of ice it's probably going to fail every year.....
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
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I did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
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THis is about the 5th or 6th time in the past year (2X in past 2 weeks) that the A/C will not come on. Two times took to Dealer & it worked just fine. Ir worked when I drove it, then parked it for 2 hours, and then it wouldn't work. Parked it, and then it worked fine again.
Dealer has no knowledge of this being an issue.
Similarly, my iPhone does not connect on an intermittent basis - again, always connects when at dealer.
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Should I do an Oil change? I never noticed this before. I have 5897 miles on the oil now.
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Just picked up a 2012 GLS two weeks ago. So far I like the car. Unfortunately, I do about 40 miles a day of traffic driving. I have noticed the car seems to downshift from possibly 4th to 3rd right around 35mph. This downshift is noticeable and the engine has to rev to match the change. It is not a high rev, just a noticeable engine braking. Is this normal? I dont feel like anything is wrong just seems like the computers are not sure when to downshift.
When the car comes to a complete stop with your foot on the brake, does the car lower its rpm by 100-200pms? Seems like this is a gas saving technique. I have noticed it when While at a light and I lift my foot slighty the car feels like either the brakes are grabbing or the rpms are to low.
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Sometimes when I put my AC on it makes a hum. It starts soft, gets louder and louder then fades away.. It's not all the time, one of those hard to diagnose intermittent noises..
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If the speedo shows me going 40MPH, my phone GPS and radar signs show me going 37-38MPH.
Is this something I should have the dealer correct or just roll with it? I've seen others post similar results, so wondering if ALL Sonatas do this?
OEM 18' wheels/tires.
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I have 90K and the SRS light came on a few months ago. What could be causing it?
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I bought my New Sonata in March 2012 and loved the Nav Bluetooth. I could say "call name" it would ask who and I would say a name from my contacts and it would connect no problem. One day a few months ago it just stopped working? I took it into the dealership and after 3 service members and the guy who sold my car to me couldn't get it to work they told me my Nav system needed to be replaced. I brought it back a few days later and left it for many hours. They called and said it was ready. I went to pick it up and they told me that it wasn't the Nav system that an "update" needed to happen? The service guy said that it should be a few weeks. Me knowing nothing about iPhones and Nav systems left confused. fast forward two months later it still isn't working! I also brought it in for an oil change a few weeks back and ask them if they have any update and they said no.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS and my fog lights wont turn on with the HIDs installed but they turn on with my regular halogen bulbs? I installed HIDs on the low beam headlight and they work perfect with the computer warning and anti-flicker. when i installed the fog light HID kit on my fog lights, they just make a quick flicker for like 1 second then they turn off. I have switched ballast, reconnected wires, and thought of switching polarities. Haven't done that yet because power is reaching the bulb.
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