Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Started Sputtering And Shaking
Jun 25, 2013
Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
View 19 Replies
Have a 2007 Sonata (2.4 L inline 4) and been plagued with rough/shaking car when initially started and pull to stop, and generally goes away when fully warmed up. Recently had oil change and service area switched me to a lower viscosity oil (5W30 to 5W20) and checked a solenoid and it was fine. Also did a fuel service treatment I suppose in an attempt to flush out stuff........I was a little surprised he didn't pursue talking about tuning up aspects but maybe none of those codes flashed......a repeating code I do have is Code 11.........though I confess when the codes refer to emission stuff I sort of ignore them.......
View 12 Replies
This is a intermittent issue. While either parked but mostly at stop lights I'll notice the engine shudder and shake very hard. It's done it about a handful of times and sometimes the AC is on and sometimes it isn't.
I have a 2011 SE ...
View 5 Replies
A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
View 2 Replies
Having problem when driving on the highway? Today I noticed the side view mirror glass shakes and moves quite a bit, while the passenger mirror appears to be rock solid. Any easy fix? I have 15k on the car - would this be something covered by warranty? 2013
View 2 Replies
I've recently noticed that my 2013 hyundai sonata would start vibrating/shaking, if I were to release my brakes slowly (It doesn't shake if I release it fast). I was wondering if there are any problems with that?
I do not feel any vibration in the car when I press /slam the brake. The only time I feel the car shaking is when I would slowly release the brake.
View 4 Replies
Been trying to save my miles on my 2011 GLS because I'm right at 100k (99.2K to be exact) and had a feeling something would be going wrong soon. Already had short block replacement, both CV axles replaced, steering columns, seized calipers, transmission sensors, and other repairs all done under warranty work for this stinker.
Driving to work today hear a clunk as I am driving uphill, tachometer immediately goes to zero, engine begins violently shaking, and traction control light comes on for some reason. Had my OBD scanner already plugged in and it pulls P0336 code for a crankshaft position sensor. Fortunately was close enough to home so that I drove it back and took the train to work. Probably going to take it to dealership tonight. The clunk and violent idle leads me to believe its more than a sensor problem. Car has had issues shifting over past month, but was so sporadic and not able to ever be replicated. Would maybe have a hard shift once every 2 weeks. That's about it.
View 6 Replies
So, after all, my sonata engine oil light started flickering yesterday on the way home from work. The light would come on on idle only. I tried to keep the light off by maintaining higher rpm. I knew I have enough oil and I was 2700 miles only in my oil change. Sonata has 97k miles. It was checked by the dealer on Feb 2016 for the engine recall. Dealer said no issues found. Even tough I always hear my engine is noisy. I tried to contact the dealer, they didn't promise any support or any good.
So, I took it to my trusted mechanic and did a proper oil change and filter using 10w30 full synthetic oil. Starting the engine, the light started flickering after 15 min idle. Always using Hyundai's genuine filters and changing full synthetic oil every 4k miles. It looks like the engine is bad. What do you think? Keep pushing on Hyundai's dealer will get me any good? Should I just rebuild / swap engine or just it is the time to get rid of the car? What to do. Dealer really reported no issue with engine when performing recall. 3k miles later in normal driving conditions the oil light is on...
View 55 Replies
Today riding to work... the little TPMS light (looks like a tire with and ! in the middle) came on - Started blinking for a minute then went solid. so I pulled off the highway and checked my tire pressure.. all tires were 31 or above.. (S/B 33)
Topped off all tires w/ air and went back on the road - light didn't go out... then on the way home, it went off... and it wasn't the cold.. It was a 'balmy' 20 this morning...
Owner's manual says it was the TPMS system malfunctioning OR interference from outside... 2012 Sonata GLS ....
View 32 Replies
Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
View 13 Replies
A month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
View 4 Replies
My 1990 Honda Accord just recently started sputtering and shaking a bit when I reach 1500 rpms, if I'm under that she's fine and if I accelerate passed that she is fine.
View 4 Replies
A couple of weeks ago I started hearing this rattling/thumping coming from under the driver's side floorboard when the car is started. Almost sounds like a loose exhaust pipe. You can hear just little rattling under idle but it goes away (or you can't hear it) while driving.
Both shops (Pep Boys and dealer) told me it's quite expensive to replace. I just started looking around and I do see aftermarket cats for a few hundred. How hard can this replacement be for the average driveway mechanic?
View 16 Replies
I have an '05 5.4L 3V and I was way to trusting in how it was running. BTW, I change the oil every 3 to 5 and have only driven highway miles, albeit a lot of them...155k! I bought it with 40k on it but was not aware of the plug change issue until I heard about it off-hand. I let the plug change go cuz it was running so well. Bad move.
Anyways, a few weeks ago it began to lose power and I suspected that the PCM was retarding the timing for some reason. Before I could get to the shop, the thing went nuts on me at 75mph. Started shaking and sputtering and throwing cel codes. I shut it down and after 5 minutes re-started. It seemed fine and actually was running a bit better. Took it in and the code was the 0302. #2 cyl misfire.
They also said the compression was very low on that cylinder and slightly low on 1,3 and 7 as well. I had them change the plugs and the #2 COP even though they said I needed a new engine and then I picked it up. Now the engine barely runs at all. It shakes violently, where to go from here. What should I do now? New engine?
View 14 Replies
My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
View 3 Replies
My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
View 19 Replies
2005 prius battery is not charging . Then check engine light /problem light came on . The vehicle started sputtering and would not accelerate over 25 mph.
View 7 Replies
I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
View 13 Replies
I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
View 6 Replies
What's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
View 5 Replies
