Camry :: 2004 V4 Engine Has Started Sputtering / Cutting In And Out
Jul 22, 2012
What's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
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Today my engine started making loud sputtering sounds, I checked the oil and it was completely gone based on the dipstick. I was shocked since I had an oil change not so long ago. My current millage is 103,500 i assume now at such a millage that oil consumption is very high. I poured some 5-20 synthetic oil in, but my engine continues to make sputtering sounds however, they are less audible now. Is it possible my engine is damaged?
Here's a recording of the engine sounds up close : [URL] .....
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I recently got a 2002 gti 337 from some dude in maryland. the car had apr stage 1 and 2 installed and a euro tuned air intake...everything else was stock. I've had the car for about 2 months now and all of the sudden it started sputtering and cutting out when id get on it a little. I also noticed I was smelling a lot of gas from under my hood. i read up and found that my car had a recall on the coilpacks so I just got them replaced thinking that would work..then changed the plugs as well. i still have a misfire though only in cylinder 4 and its really taking the fun out of the car. I only have it on stage 1 because I didn't have a turboback till just recently and now I don't even want to put it on cause i have no power.
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2005 prius battery is not charging . Then check engine light /problem light came on . The vehicle started sputtering and would not accelerate over 25 mph.
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I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
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When I'm driving it starts to cutout (but it never dies) and it won't stop cutting out until I floor it and then it's fine for a little bit and it starts doing it again.
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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What would cause a sputtering noise to come from the engine but only after a cold start meaning starting in the morning and after work but goes away after I drive for a min or two and doesn't come back until the next morning or after work. It sounds almost as if say you had a hole in your flange and drove it around. Its really weird it happens a few times a week for the psst 2 weeks but hasn't happens ever before that. Could it be the water pump in its way out? Oil levels fine fluid wise everything topped off.
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I changed the spark plugs in my daughters 2003 camry, and now it is sputtering and and hesitating. is there a chance I put them in to tight? The check engine light is on, and it will start blinking for a few seconds and then stop blinking and remain on when the car gets up to speed. The car wasn't doing this before the sparkplug change.
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I'll try to explain what the truck is doing best I can. I'm not sure if it's the engine or tranny. When you lug the truck on a hill or put a load behind it and lug it the truck jerks like the engine is cutting out or the tranny is jerking, I can't tell which. You can drive it all day long on a flat road or small hills and you can't make it do it. It does it worse going up a hill with a load behind it. You can lug the truck on a steep hill let off the accelerator and mash it back down and it will do it almost every time. I've tried overriding the overdrive and it still does it. If you keep the rpms above 2000 up a hill it won't do it. I've had it checked by a transmission shop and they couldn't make the truck do it. Also it doesn't throw any codes or put the check engine light on when this happens. 2007 F150 supercrew 5.4 auto, with 88,000 miles.
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MY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
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I recently did the NAV/DVD bypass. It worked fine and still does. Although the check engine and check VSC warning came on eventually, I reset them and did not recur and all is fine with the bypass not activated. After about several days or a week later I tried the CD player and the audio started cutting out as well as no audio from the DVD. All CDs and DVDs worked before. AM/FM/SAT/NAV audio works fine. But DVD/CD has no audio.
I found that DVD/CD audio go through the optical S/PDIF (spdif) cable. I checked it behind the unit and it looks fine, undamaged, not bent. I have not checked it on the amp side yet. Also I do not know if there's anything in between.
What the S/PDIF cable line consists of?
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I just got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4. Speedometer started cutting in and out. Just the speedo needle cuts in and is accurate for a long while then jumps up 10mph then goes back to accurate speed then cuts out and needle goes to zero for a bit then comes back on to accurate speed.
Just the speedo needle is the problem the trip meter and odometer and all other gauges on the cluster works just fine. Do I need a new cluster? Wouldn't be a speed sensor? Speed sensor would just cut off and would affect the odometer too wouldn't it?
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My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
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Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
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I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
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Ok...so I drove my car last night about 120 miles and all was well. Got up this morning to go run some errands and the car started acting weird, sputtering. The check engine light was blinking on and off, then it came on solid and stayed on. I haven't checked the code yet.
2004 Jetta GLI1.8 T Manual Transmission
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I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
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I was sitting in a drive through line, and my 2002 Ford F-150 started spitting, sputtering and then died. I restarted it several times, not getting anything but the spitting and sputtering again and then nothing else. I was told by a friend it HAD to be the fuel pump, now I am being told it HAS to be the ignition coil. My friend is a shade-tree mechanic and now I am not certain I trust his judgement.
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Ii had drove my car about 20 miles and after i had got inside and turned it on to drive it again CEL started flashing and car was sputtering lost power and felt like it didn't want to move so I had taken it to a VW specialist and he diagnosed it and told me its my coil pack and its got a bit water inside it and I would need to replace it and he said he would charge me $300 to replace ...
So I figured if its just the coil pack I could most likely do it myself and could this be from the coil pack? and why would there be water in my spark plug? Should I replace all coil or just the one that's bad.
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