Suburban :: 2003 GMC Yukon XL - Codes P1518 And P0220 Are On?
Mar 10, 2012
I'm working on a 2003 Gmc yukon xl, which is the same as the suburban. Check engine light is on and the codes P0220 (TPS sensor) and P1518 (TAC throttle actuator control) are on. I've cleared both codes drove the vehicle all day, but when I shut it off and start it back up the two codes are back on and a message on the dash says reduced power, and there is no throttle. However if I clear the codes everything goes back to normal until I shut the thing off again and the 2 codes pop on and it says reduced power... Now I've cleaned the tps sensor electrical connector thinking this was the problem, but no luck.
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I have a 2003 F150 V6 4.2L, 171,000 miles on it. I have four codes on it.
#p1518
#p0316
#p0303
#p0136
I had a p1518 in november of 2012, had it repaired and its back. In the time that I had it repaired and it came back on (maybe a month and a half ago) I only drove the truck maybe 3000 miles, if that. Just curious if this particular part should have some kind of warranty either by the MFG or dealer since the dealer repaired it. Have a limited budget, trying to find out what I can fix on my own in a timely manner.
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1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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I have the P1518 code for Intake Manifold Runner Control. I can not seem to find if have the actuator itself only the electronic control which, I take connects to the actuator. Is the electronic portion the only thing that needs to be changed and clean the actuator butterfly with the manifold off, or does the actuator need to be found and replaced?
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My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
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Could these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
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Got these codes after my check engine light came on.Cleared the light with my OBD2 scanner several time but it kept coming back on. One week at the dealer who replaced a 'sensor' after vegging it and talking to the VW Tech line! Light came back on the same day I picked up the Touareg from the dealer :confused. Dealer thinking about what to do next.
2007 FSI V8 Touareg...
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I am currently having an issue with my 2003 Yukon XL. Randomly, but mostly associated with hot outside air temps or while pulling our camper the truck will just shut off. Almost like we turned off the ignition. We don't get any sputtering or misfiring, nor does the CE light come on. After about 3-5 min we can start the truck up and keep on going. On the hot days it may do it a few more times but on others it wont do it again for weeks. I recently had it looked at and the mechanic thought it was a fuel pump. But after finding out the cost of the repair I did some investigating and found other people have had this problem. They to were told it was a fuel pump. However after it was replaced they still have had the problem.
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Truck was running fine all day then as I pulled into the driveway the service engine light came on. Did a scan and code says , intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1. I was told they are at the back of the manifold but I can't even get a mirror in that tiny space. What is involved in reaching these two valves and how do I know which is bank 1?
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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon XL 1500 4 WD. Ive been getting a loud bang ( like a hammer strike on the front frame) on occasion only after backing up and it happens after the truck moves forward a bit. You can almost feel the truck loading up and then it gives with a loud hammer like bang. Ive had a tech check the front end and do an alignment. I had thought it might be a brake hanging up.
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2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
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Rear view mirror, the tempurature/compass work fine when the vehicle is sitting still.
As the car accelerates, the mirror "temp & compass" begin to flash all sorts of digits and then goes blank. Mirror is plugged in properly.
Is there a temp probe somewhere under the hood that could be loose and starts to move upon driving? It works fine when not in motion.
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I have a 2003 GMC Yukon, 5.3 engine with 4x4, and with flex fuel option. The vehicle is making a vibration type sound. The sound is almost like a buzzing type sound. It's not overly loud and it's a low vibration buzz. This sound is not continuous, but occurs when the accelerator is applied. It will last for several seconds and then go away. This happens between the speed of 0-40 mph, but only when the accelerator is pressed. The vehicle will not make any vibration sounds when coasting. At speeds of 45+mph, there is no noise even when the accelerator is applied. I tried to pin point the sound, but it is very hard to locate. My best guess would be at the rear of vehicle. Maybe even where the fuel tank is located. This wouldn't be the fuel pump? I don't have any problems starting the vehicle or loss of power though.
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I pumped gas at the local Chevron after noticing I was running just below a quarter tank this morning and immediately after turning the truck back on the instrument panel was dead. All other electric components worked fine (windows, headlights, signals, radio, etc.) Yukon GMC 2003 110k miles...
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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I need to add a 2nd battery to my 2003 1500 suburban. How to do it? Or is there a Kit I can buy for it? Also would I need to change the alternator?
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My 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
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I removed the cluster in my friends 2003 Suburban last week to send it in for repairs as the gear selector and backlights as they were not working. I used this company several times before and they do excellent work. When the cluster arrived back a few days later I installed it and the truck would not start. I made sure the battery wasn't ran down and that everything was connected and still nothing. I called the GM dealer and the service tech told me that the truck should run without the cluster plugged in. Tried it and still no luck.
I proceeded to do the passkey security relearn procedure even though the security light was not lit and nothing. I got on here yesterday and read a post of about possibly a bad connection in the steering column so I lifted the column up and down several times while trying to start the truck and got nothing. All of the lights come on and I hear the fuel pump prime but it does not attempt to start. I drove the truck in the garage the day I removed the cluster and it ran great.
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I have a 03 Suburban LT with the 150,000 miles. and it misses out at 50mph or higher. I thought it was the transmission, and the tranny guy confirmed a new transmission was needed, but said he thought the missing was maybe the coils. the local Chevy dealer did the diagnostic, and determined the coils, plugs, and plug wires were all good. I 've replaced the oxygen sensor as well. The service manager said to keep driving it until the Check Engine light comes on. That concerns me, but hey what do I know. The mileage hasn't dropped off, and it runs fine the rest of the time.
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I have a failing 2003 Chevy Suburban instrument cluster and wonder if I can replace it myself. All I have to do is remove it and re-install it when they send it back. 4 bolts and one plug. No reprogramming. What could be easier? Is it really something I can/should do? -
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