Could these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Pontiac grand am coupe GT with the 6 cylinder engine. It has been a very good car to me. I really like it and it "fits" me well ... and yet... it is now testing me. About a year ago the check engine light came on. The codes were P0327 and P0336 for bad Knock sensor and Crank sensor respectively. The were both replaced multiple times, the light still stays on... and the codes are still coming up. I have have been to different experts, and after the computer resets... there they are again. (someone even thought that the computer needed updated codes for those sensors... so he installed them.. with no better results). The code P1189 for an oil switch is now coming up too.Here in California, the car cannot pass smog with the check engine light on... so I'm not able to re-register it, and I don't think I can sell it for much because no one can register it now. So, what this can be? Is there some common thread between all these sensors (or a recall of some kind) that would explain this? My fear is that the computer will have to be changed at about $1000. My even greater fear is that that will still not solve the problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a failing 2003 Chevy Suburban instrument cluster and wonder if I can replace it myself. All I have to do is remove it and re-install it when they send it back. 4 bolts and one plug. No reprogramming. What could be easier? Is it really something I can/should do? -
View 3 RepliesSo, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
Just bough a new (to me) Touareg yesterday...2008, 75k miles, good service history. Drove home from the dealer no problems. Driving that same night (last night) the CEL comes on. Ok, I've had VWs before, CELs don't really make me panic.
Get home and scan the car and it comes back with P0327 (knock sensor 1 circuit low) and P0441 (evaporative emissions system incorrect purge flow).
I have a feeling it's got less than premium gas in it....I'm gonna throw some octane booster in the remaining 1/2 tank and see what happens. Anything else I should do?
1999 suburban, 5.7, 140K miles. The exhaust gasket between the cats and the muffler (Y-pipe connection to intermediate pipe) keeps failing. I have tried various brands, from Dynomax to Walker. It is part #31575 and has the two holes.
History: The first time I replaced the gasket, I twisted off the studs so I replaced them with SS bolts and use never-seize to make it easy to remove next time.
The cats were replaced a year ago with a new Walker 50410 because the passenger side pipe near the manifold kept cracking and weld repaired, but eventually split open all the way to the O2 sensor 1.
A shop advised me to try using some Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer on the new gasket. I tried this and it still failed after a few months.
In my latest attempt, I stacked two gaskets and liberally applied the Permatex on all sides of both gaskets. This has survived for 6 months, but is now leaking again.
I'm starting to wonder if I have a restriction in the muffler that's causing a higher than normal pressure inside the exhaust system.
I have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
More questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
My Suzuki has been in and out of maybe 5 shops in attempts to fix engine codes P0171 (system lean) and P0174 (bank 1 rich). None of them have successfully done so. I tried to take it into a dealer, but I was informed that diagnostic would take several hours (maybe $1000), and that the fix may be another ~$1500-2000, even though I have already replaced many parts related to these codes.
The dealer advised me to give up on the car, as the repairs could easily exceed the value of the car. I don't really care about that, I just need a reliable car that works.
Brakes: Current setup has over 40,000 miles. OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Stiffing kit aka brass bushings installed. Brakes feel rough. Having problems with sticking and ABS on one side. I switched the pads and the sliders from left to right. The problem seems to have moved when pads and sliders were switched around. Possible solutions: brake caliper rebuild. I already bleed the brakes and clutch out. What pads should I use next? Is braided lines a good idea??
Paint: Front bumper is shot, hood has rock chips, mirrors need work out and rear bumper could use a lil love. Should I paint these parts Reflex silver? Paint the whole car again?? Or wrap the car? What about wrapping the whole car? Matte silver? Brushed Silver? Shiny Silver? Or maybe a camo wrap? What's ya input, how bout I rattle can these parts?? Show car or street brawler??
TIRES: My Nitto NT05's have about 2/32's left. Good dry grip, tons of DRY grip but everything else is just ok. Cost, weight, wet traction, comfort, looks, noise and vibration are all OK. Tire wear is less than expected. I KNOW that the Michelin Super Sports are the TOP TIRE right now. Everything about the Super Sport is great! But, I'm hearing the Hankook RS3's are the best bang for the buck. I also heard that the Falken 452 is being replaced by the 453 AS WE SPEAK. I need a cost effective tire with good dry grip, good wet grip, decent noise and vibration with good wear rating. The Michelin fits the bill but they a Lil expensive. What tires should I consider?
Vag-Com: I got codes to read, you'll. Airbag light on, I wanna find the problem and FIX IT. My laptop computer is weak. I don't wanna get a cable and a disc for VAG. What are my other options? I wanna be able to erase codes and realign my throttle body. Other than VAG-COM how can I read and erase codes??
Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
View 3 RepliesThe battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
i have a 2006 with almost 200k miles. Got the red triangle, check engine light, and the red car at the top of the MFD. I ran the codes and got P3000. Does this sound like traction battery failure? The car still turns on and ICE still cycles off and on.
View 19 RepliesThis car was bought new 2008. All is well w/ everything. It's a joy to drive. However, we were told last week, that since the car is 8 years old (or soon to be), we should worry about the hybrid battery failing and should consider a new car. So, that's the question. Repair or replace?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius with 140,000 km (90,000 miles). The car was dented during hail and so it spent one month in the bodyshop. The damage was entirely cosmetic and the car ran perfectly when I dropped it off.
View 12 RepliesTypically, our GX cranks and starts fine...after turning over once or twice. However, recently it's been slow to start. Today, I felt as if there weren't enough CCA. Battery is 2 yrs old (about 23K miles old) and the alternator was replaced about a yr and a half ago. I suspect it's the battery, however what are the symptoms of a failing starter? How difficult it is to replace the brushes or change it with a remanufactured one on a 2006? Is there a DIY on the starter? I just want to cover all the bases...just in case.
View 1 RepliesA few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
View 1 RepliesMy '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
I'm working on a 2003 Gmc yukon xl, which is the same as the suburban. Check engine light is on and the codes P0220 (TPS sensor) and P1518 (TAC throttle actuator control) are on. I've cleared both codes drove the vehicle all day, but when I shut it off and start it back up the two codes are back on and a message on the dash says reduced power, and there is no throttle. However if I clear the codes everything goes back to normal until I shut the thing off again and the 2 codes pop on and it says reduced power... Now I've cleaned the tps sensor electrical connector thinking this was the problem, but no luck.
View 8 RepliesIf sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
View 5 Replies